I've got a stock 2.0L distributor that is in need of rebuilding/refurbishing. I've looked through the vendor forum and didn't see anyone offering this service. Can anyone recommend someone to do this job?

If you don't find a 914 guy....I'm sure the www.356registry.org vendor area has one or more. They do NICE work, I've seen the displays at the used to be Dunkels show and others here in So Ca.

No experience, but I'm planning on sending mine to these guys for their R&R service:
http://www.moto-parts.com/index.htm

consider rebuild money could go toward the purchase of a mallory. jake says ....

Don't think that will work with fuel injection.

Ernie .... why do you think it needs rebuilding / refurbishing?

If it's sticky, you can use a can of carb cleaner and get the gunk out of the housing. The top plate (point plate) will come out with a couple of screws and expose the lower advance assembly.

The rebuild of a dizzy is really limited to replacing the bushing in the housing, if and only if the points cam moves side to side a bunch. They will primarily clean / lube them and replace the points / condenser. They may replace the advance springs & vacuum can. They will not replace the trigger points unless they are broken / bad and that would be at extra cost (if they are still available).

MotoParts as shown
VAPEX in Gardena, CA
A-1 Cardone - Philadelphia (usually this is what you get when you go to a local FlAPS)
HiTest in Anaheim, CA
Margus in Los Angeles
Rotex in Gardena (not sure they do distributors)

I would have to check on Monday if anyone in AZ (mainly Phoenix) is rebuilding distributors

Call "Cap'n Krusty" (John) @ 805-925-1993.

Ken

I agree the key to rebuilding are the (2) required bushings per dizzy. A few years ago I got lucky and found (2) bushing rebuild kits complete with a bushing driver at a VW parts house going out of business. I rebuilt mine & gave the the other set to a friend. I wish I would have taken dimensions on the bushings. I am sure you can fabricate them, but try some of the local VW shops first. You may get lucky.

Tom

My distributor performance greatly improved when I took it apart, cleaned/lubed the advance weights and the top plate. Later I added a Pertronix and it improved a little more. Like SLITS said above, unless you have side to side play, you probably don't need a rebuild. Also check your vacuum advance canister and make sure it works properly.

Try to re-bush yours before exchanging. Or, get a good used one. The "rebuilt" distributors I've bought have had all these problems:

- you'll get a different one in exchange that you'll need to dismantle and modify to move the vac can and condensor to fit on your car

- different advance curve such that you can't set timing to factory specs

- mickey moused trigger pts

- stripped screw holes

the good thing is that using the pertronix seems to eliminate bushing wear

There's a guy in the back of Bruce's book that I sent mine to. International Auto Electric?? Baryy Henderson?? In Detroit. 2.5's running like a champ

Thanks for the info gang. My car had a problem with an occasional buck/hesitation. I knew it wasn't the TPS type of problem and I'm already running Pertronix so it isn't points. I swapped distributors with my son's 73 and the problem went away. You all make it sound like it's probably pretty easy. I was just afraid I'd mess it up. I don't think I have excessive shaft movement so it's probably just that things are gunked up and not moving easily all the time. I forgot to check if there was a thread that showed how to rebuild your own distributor... I'll have to check for that.

You know, failing fuel injection trigger points caused some really weird problems with my car, that your problems sound similar to. Have you replaced the FI trigger points? Mine were no good even though testing with a meter and through the harness indicated no problems. I chased this problem for a couple of years. Replacing them really made the car run better. This was the last thing on my FI that I changed out because everything I had read indicated that the FI points rarely go bad. I'll bet the set in my car was original. My car would run great when cold, but after it heated up, maybe after driving it for 15-20 minutes, it would lose power. It sounded fine, but it would hesitate at stoplights--you really had to get on the gas or it would die while pulling away from the light. Also when under way and you stepped on the gas, it just didn't have the umph that it did when cold. Anyway, after many troubleshooting hours and many $ replacing stuff, replacing the FI trigger points nailed it. The thing runs great. I think you ought to change them out if you haven't done it before. This could also explain why your son's distributor made a difference. I have a '73 with the original FI also, by the way.

From the 356Registry vendor area:

http://www.emorymotorsports.com/vintage/GearHead.htm

That's the website for Don Marks. He's highly regarded by the 356 crowd. Don't know if he gets into 914 stuff though.

I haven't changed those. Since I've got two distros to play with I can swap my FI points into his distro and see how it does. Anything that doesn't cost money is definitely worth trying before spending $$.