QUOTE(snflupigus @ Jan 29 2007, 09:02 PM)
I have been looking at tubular chassis all over the internet and I keep coming back to the idea of raising and reinforcing the center tunel...
what are the advantages of having our tall longs as well as a backbone structure tied in?
my example of my thoughts are probably the c6 vette.
see the c6 chassis herea video I took in 04 for the c6 dealer training at Pheonix International Raceway (got to drive lots of vettes, base911, boxterS, z4) the c6 Vette is amazing.
DIVX VideoIMO it is best to just hoop the car and tie the longs together for the best torsional rigidity. To increase rigidity between the wheels, tie tubes to the suspension points through the firewalls. Increasing the center tunnel to get the same effect would be far more difficult, as you would have to reinforce the firewall tie-in points as well. Probably a lot heavier in the end v. a simple cage.
the new Z06 tho' !!!!!!!
QUOTE
Im planning a tube frame 914 that will incorporate something similar I think. The plan is to use 2X4 box tube for the perimiter frame and then make substructure reinforcement working toward the center of the chassis, similar to what the Corvette has. These reinforcments may be 2X3 or round tubing or a combination of both.
As for mounting, I plan to notch the longs and slide the 2X4 frame up into the area that is occuppied by the Heat Tubes. Since Im running a V8 anyway this should work out fine. Inside the 2X4 box tube frame will be the cooling lines for the front mounted Radiator.
Not sure if I will have to raise the center tunnel though. Im hoping I dont have to. IF I do, then it will call for a Cable Shifter.
The only problem that I have run into so far is the mounting for the Rear Control Arms and Coilovers...but that should not be that difficult.
As I come up with more planning I will post my progress...
Thanks...
Steve
I started out to use 2x3 but couldn't get chromoly tubing in that size - if you use 2x4 mild steel you car will get heavy fast, and 2x4 is a huge section for such a small car. I went with 2" diameter as the "square" that surrounds my interior (which is too big as well frankly, but I wanted side impact stability) and 1-3/4" extends front and rear from there and most of the floor support in my car is a combo of 1-3/4" and 1-1/2", all .090" chromoly to keep weight down. All said and done my car is still over 2600lbs, tho' I will be getting fiberglass lids, putting my gutted, early doors on it for the track, and so forth. Probably still be 2500#.
Longs? I don't need no stinking longs...
Click to view attachmentClick to view attachmentWhat is hard to see is that I have the longs sitting on 1-1/2" tubes during construction to lift the body up relative to the new floor - helmet clearance was tight before with the race seats and remember, you sit on the lowest part of the car without tubes, so adding them to the floor puts you up 1-3/4" inches, so I set the whole body up from my new "bottom".