I just bough fiberglass quarters+fenders and would like to know which is the best
way to mount them using ZUS fastners? I DONT want to glass them in.... I like being able to remove them, also because this will be a track/street car if they get damaged they are easy to remove but at the same time I dont want them shaking around on the street.


here is a pic of what I am working with.... I will be chopping all the fenders+quarter metal but would like to know where to put the ZUS fastners also which ZUS fastners are the best.

Thanks

I have been looking at another members pics and this is one of them I kept. Is this the best place to cut metal?

Hi...

I would recommend that you use the Dzuz Fasteners evenly spaced and as many as you need to fasten each panel probably no more then 8-10" inches apart...if air gets underneath the fiberglass panels it could come of the car....in this case more is better if you are unsure.

As for the specific Dzus Buttons...they come in several varieties....here is a company I do work for on their website/IT and they have a good selection of the different types and sizes....you can download a catalog and look at page 51 here:

http://www.artmorrison.com/2006cat/index.php

I would recommend the Large Head Self Ejecting Buttons...you can choose between .500 and .550 long....usually .550 is used for fiberglass....you will need Dzus Plates and springs to complete your project.

You can call them at (800) 929-7188 hit Ext# 223 or ask for Dave Jones he will be happy to help you...

Thanks...good luck...

Steve

On the rear trunk lid horizontal flange. (Dzus is vertical)
On door jamb (Dzus is horizontal)
Under rocker (Between rocker and fender, Dzus is horizontal)
rear connection to light bucket area... (Custom)

Rich

this is how I did it on my 911Click to view attachment

That be mine I have two Dzus on the front that attached to the "bumper", 2 by the headlight buckets, and 4 (two down each side) right in front of the door. I have actually seen that front end attached with 6 total on another car (!) but wanted a few extra to be safe.

I put a LOT of fasteners along the top of the rear fenders because they were so flimsy they would "buckle upward" with just a couple, so I put a few every 6-8" to force the fender to fit the body nicely. For each fender, you could run 2 behind the door, 3 along the top edge, and one down by the rear valence if you don't have as much "uneven-ness" like I did.

You can hack those fenders completely away if you have full fenders like the Sheridan kit I do - most of the race cars with removeable fenders are like this (where I got the idea for my cutting frankly - Chuck McKinney had one of the first Sheridan kits on his 914-6 and I matched his cuts more or less - his car was in Excellence in the mid or latter 90s IIRC). As for the front where I cut out for the radiator I would NOT recommend that - unless (what you don't see in that pic covered by the trunk floor board) you add cross bracing in the front. I don't have a pic of my bracing at the time, but that section is structural between the front susp mounts.

Here are some better shots that may help you - you can see the original 4 mount points at the front (now I have just the 2 by the signals - the radiator blocks the others but I added a splitter at the bottom that holds the nose very well now.
Click to view attachment

A rear shot - I have around 10 per side to fit those fenders, but again you could do two by the doors, 3 along the top and one down by the valence if you don't mind the fenders not quite fitting flush.
Click to view attachment

Another showing the holes at the rear. The car has changed quite a bit but the fenders still mount the same
Click to view attachment