Anyone put on AN fittings without a vise ?If so how bad was it ?

they even made padded vise inserts for em

i did a few free hand.... but had to use the vise to finish em.....

pita

You'll need a friend with strong hands and some leather gloves. I hate putting those things together. Not worth it IMHO.

oh yes!

nitrile dont even count as gloves LOL was picking strands out of my hands for a while

I did mine without a vice.

I used 2 huge ass wrenches to tighten them.

I tape the end with masking tape and cut them with a chop saw for nice square ends, I get the nut over the masking tape, then remove the masking tape, install the ferrel and then lubricate the end of the hose and the hose end and push it until seated then tighten up the nut.

Mine are not really AN. Mine are steel 37 degree JIC fittings (think hydraulic hose).

I found the larger the line, the easier they are to install.

It is easiest to take them to the hydraulic hose shop and have them swedge the fittings on.

did mine by hand too... and by wrench....

I thought the -16s were easier than the -12s Still have the final two to do, need to put the motor in to finish those right.

took me a long time to have enough ass to do them all... many saturdays

Use the wrenchs that are made for them, less marks when your done. Put a little lube on the threads and inside the hose, it will go together a lot easier. I use model paint for touch up.

I used push lock an fittings and blue line hose, no SS wrap to fray, or stick in you fingers.

I used both the push-on lines and the braided lines - did all my lines by hand. I used the push-lok stuff on my fuel system (only 7psi for carb) and for my dry sump I ran -12 for everything but a single -16 return. I used XRP ends (and I haven't used other brands in awhile so they may be the same) and the XRPs had a nice, tapered end so the hose fit in nicely.

The important part is how you cut the line. As John said, he used masking tape and a chop saw - I prefer using really good duct tape and a hack saw. Get a brand-new, finest-tooth blade, wrap the hose VERY tight with the duct tape, and hack through it using a much force/least strokes as possible (dirty minds keep it to yourself ) Then pull the tape off carefully, at an angle away from the hose and there will be little to no fraying. Apply oil to both the fitting both where the hose slides through and the threads. Oil the inside of the hose too - then when you put the other end in (that bites into the hose), oil the part that inserts and the threads there too. Lots of oil on any mating surfaces is the way to go. Two big wrenches and you are on your way. The only time I would have liked a vice was actually when tightening the fittings together - would have reduced the marring from the fitting moving around between the wrenches.

Oh, and before you tighten, put a strip of duct tape on the hose, right at the fitting so you can make sure the hose doesn't back out as you tighten (you will see a gap between the tape and the fitting if so). A very small amount of backout (like .030" small) is okay. I leave the tape on so I can do a quick visual at the track each time I go to see if any hoses are backing out under pressure, just a tip but not necessary.

A nice heavy duty metal shears works great, clean cut no debris, I have used hacksaws and cutoff wheels I have found the best so far is the shears.

Try using a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel. I wrap it with one layer of masking tape, draw a straight line and go. Works really well with no fraying. I've used it for -6 through -16 hoses.

Using dremels, cutoff wheels, hacksaws to cut braided line is old school. We have been using cutters like these for a few years now and they really streamline building AN hoses

Click to view attachment

One snip with these done, not having to clean out the hose like after using a cutoff wheel priceless!!

Using AN wrenches to intall the fitting is a pia, you dont have enough leverage. We us big box wrenchs. The alu AN wrenches are good for installing the assembled hoses.