Well, it's been a while since I posted anythign worth while, so here goes!

Bought 44mm HPMX's, which flooded my engine. Now got the 44's on evilbay, see if they sell! I've found a pair of Italian Dells (40's, jetted pretty much how I need them) which I am going to buy should my carbs reach the reserve of one quarter of the cost of a new pair!

I have also purchased a 4-1 header to replace my twin cannons, it needs a clean up but with some wet & dry, a spot blaster and a trip to the annodizing shop to get it chromed should see it right (unless you guys have any better ideas for protecting steel from the elements?).

What else to tell..? My vac advance dizzy is useless if I am using IDF's, so I need to find a way of using it or, better yet, find a 050 to use. If anyone has any idea where I can get hold of one (in the UK for preference) that'd be awesome!

Not much else going on... Brand new brakes all round are about 25% fitted, a litttle welding is needed, and I shall begin stripping her to re-spray when the weather turns a little nicer again.

On the look out for bigger, better parts all the time. Did get some advice from someone here, he said a 1700 914 lump should tolerate a 50 shot of nitrous without any issues if using direct port, a progressive controler and a purge. I am dubious, what do you guys think?

I've so far taken the advice I've had from here in the past (replace header (pics below) replace carbs... Next step, guys? I've found some straight cut cam gears, are they worth while? Would love a new cam to go with them if I were to buy! Still a 1700cc though... And I will have the car running before any more work is done, but always planning the next step.



The engine isn't mine, it's an upright coling converted camper engine. But the header should fit mine ok, it's an early oval port 914 motor (W code).

This sounds like a cool project... when you can, would you share some pictures?

-Rusty

Will do just as soon as I get home from work. It sounds like a cool project, but what it really is is a big mess at the moment! Wiring everywhere, carbs that are too big and flooding the engine, no interior, re-spray required ideally cos it's a home-job metallic silver just now and although it's ok, it's not fantastic (previous owner's handy work). If it wasn't for the surface rust starting through, I would leave it as it is.

But I am making headway bit by bit!

Just that one for now, more later!

if you need a distributor on the cheap why not go with a new 009? while the curve may not be optimized for the t-4, your engine will run just fine. stay with conventional points. it's not like you have to stand on you head to set them like in a 914.

k

This much is true. Just wondered if anyone knew of a p-lace they could be got thats all! Well, once my carbs are sorted and the header is in place with a muffler, I'll start the rest of the project! More pics later

i should think the *Volksworld* magazine would have listings for retailers for aircooled parts in the UK.

k

Hey Dave, If your shot in the ass with diamonds and money is no problem then

put it on the bottle. Nitrous will kill it quicker then without it. I would spend that

money on some 96's for it. My first 1911 ran great and would have been very

impressive in a baja. Just my .02

No luck on evilbay for a dizzy? I would think with your geographical location

you would be in Porsche / VW heaven.

who made that cooling setup? neat stuff...

you *could* have choked down the 44's with some small venturi's.. but are better off going with the smaller carbs....

dizzy. Mallory Unilite. BAR NONE the best dizzy to use. 050 is second, 009, etc.... fall in line behind it.

OH! and BTW... where did you get the ITG filters?

I have to be honest and confess, the ITG filters are not mine! Nor is the engine shown! That is the God-only-knows how many races won engine that currently has them fitted, but I just bought the Tri-Mill 4-1 shown in the pic off him! I was going to clean it up and chrome it, but not sure... What do you guys think?

More pics to come when I take some

link for the webers??

Careful on the dells, the 40's flow about the same as the 44 webers...

Rich

buy these.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-914...1QQcmdZViewItem

Dave I have seen some of the guys that have used a porcelain finish on there

exhaust. Some look like chrome but they have a rainbow of colors to choose

from and it dosen't want to rust.

ceramic coat vs chroming....

pretty deep rust for chroming. you'll never be rid of it. ceramic is the way to go.

kevin

Oh you got to have faith, Brother! Us Brits built the biggerst fuckin' Empire the world has ever seen on cups of tea and elbow grease (course, when we ran out of elbow grease we gave it all back again before we got given a rightful kicking!) but that's beside the point! This nation was built on determination and so is my Baja! I'll see if there's a pic somewhere of what I started with... It's grim! They said I would never manage to get the old engine turning after the fire (my Baja got burned out by an electrical faut), and I did! They said I would never get the floorpan fixed, and I did! They said I would never polish that exhaust... Watch this space amigos! We shall see!

Mind you, that said... You can't polish a turd...

you have a link for the webers you are selling?

Rich

Who said anything about selling webers..? I'm selling HPMX's, Weber copies, but here's the link...

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...p;rd=1&rd=1

Bid away if ya fancy 'em boys!

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie...p;rd=1&rd=1

PS

Not put it on there, put postage to USA is possible but cost will have to be sorted out after auction ends cos I aint got a clue how much it'll cost to send the buggers!

hang on, why would nitrous kill it any quicker than a supercharger or turbo? It's the same principle, right? adding more air to your mixture... Compensate for that with Y foggers and some extra gas, product is same as a turbo... Only problem I can see is if running too lean, but then you got the same problem with turbo's and supers... That and overboost!

Simply stated, nitrous oxide injection is very much like a supercharger or a compression ratio increase in that, during combustion, it can dramatically increase the dynamic cylinder pressure in the engine.

Of course, when we significantly increase the cylinder pressure in the engine, we also increase the engine's tendancy to detonate. This is why almost all nitrous motors require retarded spark timing during nitrous oxide operation. The cylinder pressure increase is also why, when misused or improperly installed, operation with nitrous causes problems with head gasket seal and failures of the rings or pistons. I should point out that any number of things that put an engine into severe detonation, such as too much boost from a supercharger, low octane fuel, excessive compression ratio or overly lean air-fuel ratio will also cause the same kinds of damage.

Another challenge with a nitrous oxide system is getting the delivery of nitrous oxide and additinonal fuel at the correct proportions. If you feed nitrous to the engine without enough extra fuel, the lean air/nitrous to fuel mixture will make the detonation problem even worse. Combustion temperatures will skyrocket and catistropic failure is certain to occur. If the proportion is such that too much fuel is delivered, the power advantage degrades rapidly.

As you can see, nitrous oxide is like any other power increasing modification in that, when used wisely and installed properly, it works well. Then used foolishy or installed incorectly it can significantly reduced the reliability/durability of your engine

Dave I didn't say it will kill it quicker than a turbo or supercharger, I said it will
kill it quicker than without.

Nitrous is addictive and can lead to abuse. Even when set up correctly I have

seen them grenade.

Sorry, misread your thread! Well, with a progressive controler, direct port system and a purge, asnd something to retard the timing (maybe there are progressives controllers that can do that out there?) It shouldn't be a problem then I guess... Anyway, gotta find some carbs for her first! Ditching the 44's, need 40IDFs or similar, or maybe 36's.

You might find what you want with these guys, been around a long time.

Click to view attachmentCheck it out.


Nitrous OS

I spoke to a company over here, the Wizards of NOS, and they said a progressive controller, a purge and direct port would see me right. They reccomended starting with a 25 shot, but also said that anything upto 50 should be fine for my engine (a 50bhp increase on a stock 1.7 flat 4 apparantly is fine, they are strong enough to cope provided it's not used 100% of the time, they said). To be fair, they also said they reccomended forged pistons, good quality heads and bigger exhaust valves too and an uprated cam if I was really serious about using it a lot.