I decided that as my car was not running when I bought it that I was willing to rebuild it if the compression looked bad. This is what I came up with after putting oil in the plugholes and turned it over by hand. It turned very freely very easy. This car has been sitting for 16 years, as it did not pass smog for the PO. He said it ran great when last run. I pulled the Webbers that are in need of rebuild and you can see some carbon in the intake of the head a little so I am thinking vales.

The compression numbers where something like 120,60,80,60,40,70-I read that S cams give lower compression, but something is wrong as the numbers are all over the place. The one 120 may be OK

This is what the engine has according to the PO.
2.5 L 20k Miles Aluminum case 2.2. Rods EMPI, 88 mm pistons and cylinders, Ported heads and manifolds
40 IDS Weber Carbs, CD ignition, 911S Distributor 67 911S Cams

This would be my 3rd 911-engine build so I am not worried I just get help with the cam timing. I have bought a oil fed tensioner set I just do not know if I will need a full rebuild. Do you guys like this engine set up as far as the 2.5 and S cams?Ported, Perer Dawes of Dawes Motorsports built this engine in the late 70s.

Bob

Short stroke 2.5. Nice pocket rocket. 88mm pistons though I've never seen.... factory 86.5s and some 87.5s, then 89s. Curious what is in there. I'd do a leakdown first - may just be sticky valves?

Please explain the leakdown test and if one has a sticky valve should I just do a valve job and check the engine out and reseal at same time. I do not want to waste money but I do not want trouble later.

Bob

Did you make sure that your throttle was wide open on tghe compression test? I made that mistake once and it made a big difference.

I once had a 2.5, S cams, aluminum case in a 914-6. I have also had a 2.7 conversion. The 2.5 had less torque but was much more fun.

Is this the brown six with the gold mesh wheels that was on ebay a bit ago?

Just Curious, seemed like a pretty trick car.

Ferg

The Webbers were off. This is the carbon in a head I am going to break it down to do a valve job at least. The question is to split the cases? I guess I will take it one thing at a time. Fun is good as a short drive is all it will get from me jamming in the city. . I had a 2.7 S with CIS in an 911 that was FAST. I just do not drive like I did when I was young. At 54 I am an old fart but I like to go fast from a stoplight or up the freeway for one ramp from my house to work.

Bob

That is my car. I am going to a semi GT with Chrome front and rear to show off the factory oil coiler, got the AA flair deal, got 7 and 9” factory Fuchs chrome and color will be the same blue as the 916 up in San Francisco with full Cork leather Interior. I am lucky to have a top quality restoration shop next door to my factory so I can look after my car every day as I pass they every day. I will do the Engine work myself, strip the car and interior and let them do the body work and paint and dirty work. My guys will work on some of it. It will cost a bunch but it should be very nice when done.

Bob

I love short stroke motors built on the 66mm cranks. They are SO much fun. 2.5 short stroke is a great configuration, especially done on an aluminum case. With some simple valve gear upgrades you can spin these motors past 8,000rpm safely and make great power. That being said, the motor you describe sounds like it might have been built as a race motor. You might want to check your port size. Its possible they have been opened up to a really large diameter, which would hurt your low RPM driveability and might make it not too much fun around town. Please post the numbers for the port size when you measure them.

I'm putting a 2.2S MFI motor into my six, but would love to have and aluminum case 2.5SS. Definitely worth the effort to get runnign right IMHO.

Brooke

Topper Chasse of POC and IMSA fame had a very hot 2.5 six with reversed order firing headers! The engine made a unique note and hauled ass. It sounded like a Italian exotic when he passed my 2.2 six on turn 8 at Willow. He was quite a driver as well.

Dan

Bob,

Sounds like we are running parallel paths right now. I am restoring my 1970 factory six, which already had factory steel flares when I got it. Its down to bare metal right now getting some rust repaired and chassis stiffening done, and then a full repaint in the original signal orange. Sticking with the chrome bumpers front and rear too. Custom Fuch centered 3 piece 16" wheels 8" (or wider) in front and 9" (or wider) in back. Vintage race buckets with houndstooth inserts, a short geared close ratio tranny with LSD and the aformentioned 2.2S MFI motor. S brakes up front and 914-6 rears widened like the GT's to take vented rotors in back. Should be done by the end of April. Can't wait.

Brooke

Your lucky if that is a Dawe built engine. Among other things Peter now builds qualifying engines for ALMS and Grand Am cars etc..

One trick Peter Dawe did was to put gas filler at the cowl with a airplane fuel door. The PO screwed it up a little when he opened the hood with the door open. The body men say they can get it to be flat. I am putting on Erick’s V vents on the rear and I have s brakes up front drilled. At the time he built this car it was very trick. By today standards it may not be the trickiest think out there but in its day I think it was period correct for a street hot 914-6.

Bob

2.2 rods are the same as 2 litre rods. I've never seen, or even heard of, EMPI 6 cylinder parts. I do agree, however, with the comments about 2.5s. It's a great motor. Sounds like you need a top end freshening. Update the chain wheels and supports to the latest stuff (like 1983 pieces) and stick with the 83 style tensioners. The Cap'n

That's not quite true. While 2.0 and 2.2 rods are the same length and interchangable (in sets of 6 of course) 2.2 rods are significantly stronger than 2.0 rods and are heavier. Some people swear by the extra strength of the 2.2 rods (Bruce Ansderson for one), while others like the lighter weight of the 2.0 rods and feel they are strong enough. Another difference is that ARP makes rod bolts to fit the 2.0 rods, but not the 2.2's.

Brooke

I think the rod bolts are different in length
(because of the thicker bottom end on the rod)

I have a set of 2.2 rods for sale currently.

brant

Peter is an amazing engine builder and a great guy. Here is a picture of the engine he just built for me. The cars with his motors in them are always up front. Enjoy the 2.5!

Cap’n the picture tells it EMPI. I have no idea what the pistons will be. I have bought oil feed tensioners and will get all the late wheels and supports like you say. So what do you say to split the case? Racing916 your engine is dam good looking, what did you use to finish you trans case?

Pressure fed tensioner covers wont fit the sandcast chain housings.

Here is an entry from pelican engine rebuilding ,hope this helps:

Cool EMPI cylinders.

Thanks for the tip on the chain boxes what is the scene with the EMPI cylinders. I am not familiar with them. Am I able to put new rings on the pistons?

Bob

Old School , wont know untill you have a look. Rings shouldnt be a problem.
While you are updating add this to the back of your alternator;

Jeff,

I remember that from my later engines but did not see it today. Where would I get one? Ebay? I have Wayne’s (From Pelicans) book on Engine Rebuilding I have that and the factory big set of manuals but there 914-6


Thanks,

Bob

sure, probably has the cooler cover too; or EASY porsche dismantler or Parts Heaven also porsche dismantler
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Porsche-911...sspagenameZWDVW