The alloy piece is broken and I need to slip it off the machined shaft.

There are two nuts holding the alloy piece which are removed but there seems to be a "pin"??? holding the forged steel piece onto the shaft that comes out of the trans.

Is that supposed to be driven out??? OR screwed out? (can't see a shape for a wrench...)

It's a roll pin. Not threaded

no - pin stays in - it is an assy.

remove the two nuts and the whole assy will come out.

jim

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...0904&st=100

the whole assembly comes out?

i removed the nuts and tried prying onthe housing but it didn't come off.


does it need to be in neutral or a certain position? pry harder?

Needs to be massaged.....schtop being such a man....finesse it....

OK, you asked about the arm coming off the shaft.....and that's what I answered.

To get the entire assembly off, just remove the 2 nuts and give it a smack with a plastic or wooden mallet. In your case it's broken so you could smack it with a metal hammer.

It's sealed with an o-ring and it's a tight fit. A smack will break it loose.....

based on the orientation of your pic - if you grab by the peice held on by roll pin - my have to rotate clockwise - exposed part toward center of tranny - internal parts away from tranny - so that the comb teeth can come out.

see link in my previous post for pics of assy

Put the car in neutral first.

It will make your life alot easier when you go to put it back in...

pic

conescrew?

What in the world did you do to break that?

As the others said, remove the two nuts (you did that),

Drain the trans.

Tap what remains of the shifter and work it out. It helps for it to be in neutral.

Once out, you can drive the roll pin out of the cast external shift arm.


just my $0.02

Im not sure what you are asking.

First, the steel piece that is connected to the shifter rod, remove the cone screw, tap that off the end of the shift rod with a brass drift.

now you can slide off the broken piece from the shift rod.

the other piece in the tranny is connected to a comb like looking thing inside, about 3-4 inches long...so as you are twisting and pulling that comb like piece will be pushing against the shifter forks.

The housing itself ( the broken part) as stated above it a tight fit with an o-ring...and all the oil will come out once you remove it.
Its a very tight fit, and natural aluminum corrosion occurs, so tap, wiggle, ban and twist...just not to much twisting...the comb needs to stay in one piece...as well as the shifter forks inside...

Rich

Roger, I might have that part if you need it, call me this weekend if need be and I'll look....

Rich has it all in there. I would drain the trans first. The whole assembly comes out parallel to the attaching studs, not the shaft itself. On the other end of that rod is like a big rugged 3 or 4 tooth key, its gotta disingage.

cone screw

=-)

The bolts that attach my 911 axle adapters to the trans axle came loose.

The free-twisting axle tore out my hy-torque mini starter, broke off the cast aluminum shift rod guide plate, bent the shift rod, snapped one of the CV bolts and.... I think that's it.

I went and ordered Dr Evils CV bolts but forgot that the adapter plate bolts have specially tapered heads and are much shorter because the adapter bolts don't need to go through the CV joint.

BTW: anyone got an extra tapered hex CV adapter bolt yo want to get rid of???