ive taken 1.8L and put 96mm big bore on, balanced pistons
a newer cam better tuned for the carbs,
44idf webbers, targa exhaust
complete rebuild
removed all heater boxes and dammed the ports
all smog equip removed

Q: car runs pretty well, occasional pop out of the carbs
the problem is sitting at idle with the windows down....the fumes are just noxious

any suggestions:
msd?
changing stock idf jets to what?

signed
hatin to slow down and smell the flowers

change to 40 idf carbs

What have you done regarding tuning and syncing the carbs? I run dual carbs (Dells) and don't smell a thing and no popping.

How are they jetted? I am not sure what it is called, but I know Weber makes a tech book that is pretty much mandatory reading.

Lots of Weber guys here that can help. Don't tear em off yet!

what size venturis do you have.
what size main, air, idle jets
What F tube?

Rich

I would suggest finding someone or someplace that has an A/F meter or smog machine so the engine can be tuned correctly. If it is smelly I would guess it is way rich which can wash the oil off the cylinder walls and ruin the engine. SInce the engine is not stock any longer, the timing can be modified somewhat depending on what the cam company says and if it has more overlap than stock grind it will cause spitting and poping back through the carbs at idle possibly? I agree that 44s are probably a tad to big.

I'm building a similar 1911cc engine, IRC, form an previous thread 32mm vents were recommended for this engine. You can keep your 44's and just go down in venturi size and appropriate main and air jets. CB Performance seems to have some pretty good prices on jets and vents. I think they've got that good Weber book too.

i had 32 venturi's on my 44 IDF's for my 2056 engine with a somewhat agressive cam.

i still think 44's, even with 32 venturi's, will be overkill for a 1911 engine ...
Andy

WITHOUT THE SPECS OF THE CARBS.........

We can't help you. Tis like pissing in the wind with guesswork.

Not trying to be a smarty pants here. Yet we need to know EXACTLY what ya have.

I have no idea if you know a lot about webers or not. So I thought I would post some links to help you.

Go here first
Look on the left of this link. Click the carb link and read until you really understand these carbs. read all of it...!!!!! Good stuff.....

NEXT:

Read some more from Red Line Weber

AND:

Great data from John Connely@ www.aircooled.net

Use the above info to find out all of the parameters of your carbs.... And please report back.

did you say you removed the charcoal cannister and stripped out the hoses? that was the source of the smell in my car
we left the hoses from the cannister open in the engine compartment thinking no big deal. once that was resolved the smell went away.

paul

thank you everyone for the fast response....

this tool is great...ill have to look into the specs and get back....

i did take out the charcoal cannister and routed the hose to under the car...thats what i thought the smell was at first....

the plugs seemed to look pretty well last time i checked it....so i dont think its running so rich to ruin the motor....

so ill check the sizes and numbers.....and repost later this week
thanks again

I did the same thing on the same engine. Started with 44s which ended up displaying similar symptoms. Changed to a good set of rebuilt 40s. Once I got them sync'd they were fine. You'll probably still have fumes and oil all over the place. See Georges comments in the 700 tech tips for what you can expect with carbs. My fuel mileage sucked too. Worse with the 44s. If you can afford it I'd recommend you go with aftermarket FI.

Ed aka W9R1 (no more carb problem / oil leaks with the WRX engine)

Thanks for the input but i made a mistake on my posting....I HAVE 40 IDF WEBBERS NOT 44 IDF'S AS EARLIER POSTED>>>>

I CHECKED THE JETS ON THE 40'S AND THEY ARE WHAT WEBBER RECOMMENDS FOR THAT CAR.....F11 EMULSION TUBE AND 1.15 MAIN JET; I ASSUMED ALL THE OTHER JETS WERE THE STANDARD SIZES FOR THAT SET UP.....AS I DISCUSSED WITH THE SELLER BEFORE I BOUGHT THEM WHAT TO USE

THE FUEL MIX MIGHT NOT BE PERFECT BUT THE PLUGS LOOK FINE AND THERE IS NO VISIBLE EXHAUST CLOUDS OR SMOKE
ADDITIONALLY- I PULLED THE PLUGS AND THEY LOOK PERFECT....LIGHT BROWN CONDITION NO PITTING OR DEPOSITS

BUT I STILL HAVE THE SMELL......WHAT DO YOU RECOMMEND

1. TAKE TO A SHOP AND HAVE THEM RUN SMOG MACHINE TEST TO DIAL IN PERFECT FUEL AIR MIX...REMEMBER I HAVE NO SMOG EQUIPMENT ON IT?? OR

2. WHERE THE OIL BREATHER TUBE RUNS OUT OF THE TOP OF THE OIL CAP....I ROUTED IT UNDER THE CAR ON THE DRIVERS SIDE.....SHOULD I RUN IT THROUGH THE CHARCOAL CANNISTER BEFORE IT EXITS/?

3. THE CAR RUNS STRONG ( FOR A 4 CYL) AND OCCASIONALLY HAS A POP SOUND FROM CARB....LIKE WHEN 1ST STARTING OUT...BUT HAVENT NOTICED AFTER RUNNING 5 MINS.....AND MY UNDERSTNDING IS IF ANYTHING THE POP IS BECAUSE ITS TO LEAN...

4. TIMING SEEMS GOOD....NO RUN ON AND NO POPS ON FULL ACCELLERATION

IT STINKS AND I HAVE TO KEEP MY WINDOW CLOSED....
GOT IDEARS???



SO....
ive taken 1.8L and put 96mm big bore on, balanced pistons
a newer cam better tuned for the carbs,
40 IDF webbers, Monza exhaust
complete rebuild
removed all heater boxes and dammed the ports
all smog equip removed


Ed aka W9R1 (no more carb problem / oil leaks with the WRX engine)
[/quote]

Is the odor that you smell raw gas or exhaust?

Check your float levels if too high it will spill over into the tops of the carbs.

PS don't use the stock FI pump way to much pressure even with a fuel regulator

set to 5 lbs. I would also check your fuel lines you may have a leak only when its

running. I would suggest you check the line around the heater lines could be

dripping on the hose and that is what you are smelling.

Your Webers ARE going to pop for the first 5 minutes on a cold engine.

Especially if you have CroMo pushrods.

And if your valves are set perfect. (Not loose)

Get used to it.

Tell us what smell you are having and WHEN do you smell it???

AND:

Like the fellas said before. Have you checked your float settings?
Do you have around 3 Lbs of fuel pressure? (use a gauge)

Does the fuel pressure fluctuate at all?

Check it out and report back with your findings.

Cheers,

Clayton

I bought this:
EMPI oil breather

Then cut my carb air filters to route the return air into the carb.

Your oil breather is just throwing stinky air back out - it would help to route those fumes back into the carb.