My 'teener has the typical chrome winshield trim - but I really don't care for it. I know I could change the color of the metal trim to black - but I would rather have a rubber seal 'look'.
Has anyone found a seal that works in place of the chrome windshield trim?
Thanks!
Marc...
Full Version: Replacing the Winshield Chrome
What he said.
Also - is there any resale value in my current trim or should I just throw it away?
(I was going to spray it black), but replacing it with rubber would work too.
Fiid.
Also - is there any resale value in my current trim or should I just throw it away?
(I was going to spray it black), but replacing it with rubber would work too.
Fiid.
I have heard, but haven't tried it myself, that exactly 10 feet of the stuff used on Honda Civics is the hot ticket. Bout 1/2 inch wide & black. Most windshield shops have the stuff, I'm told.
GM S-10 (truck) is another one to look at - as JP said, ask at a windshield place.
I just called a glass shop near me. They said to bring the vehicle around, and they should be able to find a match from their buck stock.
I have a few rock chips, so I also asked about the cost to get a new windshield, too.
They quoted me $270 to install an untinted one, or $290 to install a tinted one (both prices include a new inner seal).
These sound pretty reasonable to me.
Marc...
I have a few rock chips, so I also asked about the cost to get a new windshield, too.
They quoted me $270 to install an untinted one, or $290 to install a tinted one (both prices include a new inner seal).
These sound pretty reasonable to me.
Marc...
Hi,
You could have your old trim powder coated black.
Cheers, Elliot
You could have your old trim powder coated black.
Cheers, Elliot
I know Patrick Motorsport does the seals but I am not sure where they source them from.. Worth a call or visit to their site though.
Phil Sparta (philinjax) knows exactly what works but you have to buy 75 feet. Maybe others on the board would share. Regardless, you have to remove the windshield and reinstall so the local shop is the best deal if you need a new glass anyway.
Do the shops know what Phil knows (or can he tell us so we can tell them)? This was a bad weekend for me...2 cars got hit by big rocks and I need 2 new windshields (the 914 is safe in the garage 
)
)
Phil is listed on page 91 of our members list. He doesn't post here very much. More often on Pelican. He sent me a web page address for a vendor who sells the stuff and knows the specific part number. I bought 20 feet from Phil that he had left over after buying the minimum 75 to use on his install. I never got to it before selling my car (the gray six) and I sold the seal with the car. Not sure if buyer installed it or not.
i have the rubber seal jim sold me. i didn't use it. i reinstalled the windshield with new clips and the chrome (painted black) trim. i'll mail the rubber to someone if they contact me at jfort@woh.rr.com
I just emailed you for that rubber seal - thanks for your very kind offer. I thank you, "Herbie' thanks you, ect...
Marc...
Marc...
QUOTE(marc_hines @ Nov 25 2003, 10:27 AM)
I just emailed you
hehe, me too. let's see who's ISP is faster
Andy
What a 914 world! That rubber seal traveled to Oregon from Florida, Ohio from Oregon and now back to Oregon (or maybe California). I could have delivered it to Marc on my bike, never mind I have not yet met him!
Jim,
I'm easy to recgonize - I'm the one with the new yellow 914 and the empty wallet.
I'm easy to recgonize - I'm the one with the new yellow 914 and the empty wallet.
These seals are pretty easy guy's. Find the local glass shop and show them the car. Tell them you want the windshield rubber. Most of them have it in boxes coiled up. Its cheap and looks decent when you are done. Just make sure to glue it in and use masking tape to hold it down for a few days before you let the car sit out in the summer sun.
The biggest problem we have had is in the bottom corners of the windshield... the stuff doesnt want to make the bend into the corners.. so buy the widest stuff you can.
The other problem.. unless you paint the back of the glass all the way around the inside...you will now see ALL of the windhsield glue and it will look like crap from outside the car.
B
The biggest problem we have had is in the bottom corners of the windshield... the stuff doesnt want to make the bend into the corners.. so buy the widest stuff you can.
The other problem.. unless you paint the back of the glass all the way around the inside...you will now see ALL of the windhsield glue and it will look like crap from outside the car.
B
Maybe I'll spray the trim black until I fork out for a new windscreen and then I'll do that with a painted border and a black rubber seal. That will also give me a chance to fix the bodywork around the windshield (arg).
Fiid.
Fiid.
QUOTE(marc_hines @ Nov 25 2003, 11:11 AM)
I'm the one with the new yellow 914 and the empty wallet.
you win. yellow IS faster ...
Andy
I just got this very detailed reply from Phil:
Marc,
The seal I use are Gold Glass, http://www.gggcorp.com/mouldpart2.htm . These seals are very supple and therefore can turn the
tight corners on the bottom outboard sides of the windshield. Gold Glass sells to re-sellers/wholesalers but, I talked them in to
selling to me. I had to buy a 75 foot roll for, I think, $75.00 or so. I only have enough left to do my wife's car and my project car
after that.
I'm attaching pictures I just took of my wife's car, getting ready to paint soon. I want to give you some tips on doing this. One of
the things you should do when discarding the chrome work and going to rubber seals is to paint the inside edges of the new windshield
about an inch wide or more strip all around the periphery of the windshield in order to mask the ugly innards of the A pillars inside trim and overhead
inside trim. It also gives the installation a much more modern car look. Took me a while to resolve the problem of getting the black paint
to stick to the window and therefore not allow the windshield to pull away from the butyl seal between it and the steel frame, a bad thing
for sure. I solved this problem by using a glass paint conditioner made by Delta, http://www.dickblick.com/zz029/65/products...am=0&ig_id=6018 ..
By experimenting, I discovered that this conditioner will hold a cover paint on like glue. The paint must go on the conditioner within 4 hours
and the combination must air dry and cure for ten (10) days. Then, when you stick that windshield in, it ain't going to pull the paint off.
As you may know, before doing the rubber seal thing, you should break off the 19 plastic clips that were used to hold the metal trim on. The
19 little holes that held the clips are somewhat of a problem, particularly at the bottom edges of the windshield frame. Any water that might
make it past the rubber seal will drain through these little holes down inside of the A pillars and from the bottom down into the fuel tank area.
The outboard bottom holes are a special problem because they would weep water down under the cowl area near the cowl to fender
seals. Rust to follow. I recommend seal all of the holes with epoxy, except the next to the outboard holes on the bottom windshield
frame. (See picture.) I drill out these holes a little and install small drain lines. This way, any rainwater or washwater to get under the trim will be able to
weep out.
Another thing, the seal I am using is Gold Glasses part number T-107BFL, 3/4 inches wide. When using this, you have to be sure that your
new windshield is perfectly centered in the frame so as to insure that the seal will make solid contact with the painted surfaces of the frame
opening. You might want to go to with part number T-108B, 1 inch wide seal, although it doesn't have the Feature Line.
Good luck with it,
Phil
Marc,
The seal I use are Gold Glass, http://www.gggcorp.com/mouldpart2.htm . These seals are very supple and therefore can turn the
tight corners on the bottom outboard sides of the windshield. Gold Glass sells to re-sellers/wholesalers but, I talked them in to
selling to me. I had to buy a 75 foot roll for, I think, $75.00 or so. I only have enough left to do my wife's car and my project car
after that.
I'm attaching pictures I just took of my wife's car, getting ready to paint soon. I want to give you some tips on doing this. One of
the things you should do when discarding the chrome work and going to rubber seals is to paint the inside edges of the new windshield
about an inch wide or more strip all around the periphery of the windshield in order to mask the ugly innards of the A pillars inside trim and overhead
inside trim. It also gives the installation a much more modern car look. Took me a while to resolve the problem of getting the black paint
to stick to the window and therefore not allow the windshield to pull away from the butyl seal between it and the steel frame, a bad thing
for sure. I solved this problem by using a glass paint conditioner made by Delta, http://www.dickblick.com/zz029/65/products...am=0&ig_id=6018 ..
By experimenting, I discovered that this conditioner will hold a cover paint on like glue. The paint must go on the conditioner within 4 hours
and the combination must air dry and cure for ten (10) days. Then, when you stick that windshield in, it ain't going to pull the paint off.
As you may know, before doing the rubber seal thing, you should break off the 19 plastic clips that were used to hold the metal trim on. The
19 little holes that held the clips are somewhat of a problem, particularly at the bottom edges of the windshield frame. Any water that might
make it past the rubber seal will drain through these little holes down inside of the A pillars and from the bottom down into the fuel tank area.
The outboard bottom holes are a special problem because they would weep water down under the cowl area near the cowl to fender
seals. Rust to follow. I recommend seal all of the holes with epoxy, except the next to the outboard holes on the bottom windshield
frame. (See picture.) I drill out these holes a little and install small drain lines. This way, any rainwater or washwater to get under the trim will be able to
weep out.
Another thing, the seal I am using is Gold Glasses part number T-107BFL, 3/4 inches wide. When using this, you have to be sure that your
new windshield is perfectly centered in the frame so as to insure that the seal will make solid contact with the painted surfaces of the frame
opening. You might want to go to with part number T-108B, 1 inch wide seal, although it doesn't have the Feature Line.
Good luck with it,
Phil
another picture:
another picture:
another picture:
Ha ha..
Almost had it word for word a few years back on Rennlist.
B
QUOTE
about an inch wide or more strip all around the periphery of the windshield in order to mask the ugly innards of the A pillars inside trim and overhead
inside trim. It also gives the installation a much more modern car look. Took me a while to resolve the problem of getting the black paint
inside trim. It also gives the installation a much more modern car look. Took me a while to resolve the problem of getting the black paint
Almost had it word for word a few years back on Rennlist.
B
anyone have a pic of the finished product for the change from chrome trim to rubber seals?
i went at my windshield last night and found what the PO had done to seal things up....
i went at my windshield last night and found what the PO had done to seal things up....
and another.....
i have put an email into Gold Glass for the T-108B if anyone is interested in a few feet once i complete the deal....
i have put an email into Gold Glass for the T-108B if anyone is interested in a few feet once i complete the deal....
Remove some of the 'conversations' and this is a classic.
I think the "conversations" are part of what make a classic thread a classic.
Now that you mention it...
Now that you mention it...
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