and all it took was:

2 trips to home depot
$9 in a makeshift pressing tool
1 heat gun
1 hammer
4 hours of cursing


First, after reading through all of the posts, I tried the boiling technique. I boiled it for 5 minutes, and at best, I would say it softened it up very very little. I tried a heat gun, and got the same results. I finally went to home depot and tried to figure out some sort of tool to help. I got a piece of all thread, 2 washers and 2 nuts in hopes of pressing it into place. AFter 6 tries, I got it to stay in, used the heat gun to "soften" it as much as possible and hammered it in. It FINALLY popped into place, and I called it a day even though it was the only thing I got done!

after it cools down, i'll check to make sure the linkage bar goes in (dont know what I'll do if it doesnt )

If I never have to put another one of these damn things in, it will be too soon!!!

ok, rant done

Nice work! They are a PITA.

I think I got lucky, I pushed it in around the circumference as much as I could and used a large flat-bladed screwdriver to force it in at the point where it stuck out the most. Took me a couple minutes, not more. It wasn't the most elegant way to get it in there, that's for sure. The car was up on a hoist as well.

Whew! I've got this to look forward to this week.
Couldn't make to to Sac this weekend for your work party BBQ, had to work Sat and again today. On Sunday, I dropped the transmission and am now ready to remove the linkage on my way to the sideshift conversion. My "new" avatar has the photo.

I'm gonna see how much progress I can make w/o dropping the engine, but the PP article says you gotta do that to get the forward linkage in. We'll see

the tranny was actually the easiest part. it did help alot that I had a friend here who has done it before.

as for the linkage. I have taken a look and everything, and I don't see why the engine would have to be dropped to get it in? I got all of the old linkage out without dropping, so I would assume the install is the same, but I'll tackle that problem when it comes.

Wow... 4 hours?

Was something broken before?

Is something broken now?

yes, i know, 4 hours was a joke...it just took a lot more trial and error than I thought it would. I tried every way suggested in all posts about it, but none worked for me. The way that finally worked for me only took about 20 minutes...the rest was "research" time:)

nothing was broken before, and the only thing broken after is a small plastic cup that got in the way when I was testing my wrench's durability after the bushing popped out for the 5th time...

IF it is all apart, perhaps I ought to drive over so you have an assembled one to look at

I made a tephlon impregnated bronze one that bolts in.

Rich

Wow

I used the hot water method. Popped in like butter. About 5 seconds is all it took.

Demick

I wrote about my thoughts on why some are easier and some not in my other post. I think Pelican has two different types, like the shift rod bushing for the 911...went through the same thing with that one.

I was there when we first tried to put it in and I could tell it was not going to be easy. The bushing was about as Pliable as a piece of steel.

Just to clarify - you got the white Weltmeister side-shift conversion bushing?

here is a link,
sorry but it seems the pictures are no longer available on this site.
Maybe an Admin could look into that..

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...ushing&st=0

Rich

yes, it was the welteister bushing. I even called Pelican to make sure I got the right one.

Tobra has been nice enough to offer to come over and help with the linkage wednesday, so that will be the big day of finding out whether I did it right or not.

Tonight, its grease packing time in the CV joints!!

towle,

I hope the pictures get fixed, i'd like to see them again, I remember seeing them when you first put them up.

Didd you ever get enough orders to produce them? How much were they going to be?

If the new one I just installed doesnt work well, I might look at going this route.

I just found out that some of the confusion may come from the fact that there are two different bushings. One is for the early cars converting to sideshift and one is for the later model cars.

Maybe since they don't sell as many of the bushings for the conversion, they are selling bushings that were manufactured 10 years ago out of a different material.

If you look at the second picture of the bushing for the late model car, you can tell that it is actually tranparent.

Heres the link:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca...t_pg1.htm#item0

can anyone explain the difference between the late model firewall bushing and the early conversion one? smaller/larger diameter?