Are you interested and capable (water jet) of making some exhaust flanges?

Rich

No water jet - but I can and do laser stuff. Exhaust flanges? 2.0 or 1.7?

M

seems to be a market for both.
Me, I want 1.7, four sets. that would be eight flanges.
Also one set of 2.0 liter.
All stainless if possible.

If you are game, PM me , I would be happy to start a group buy thread to see how many people are really interested.

It seems easy enough once you get the dimensions..

Rich

It takes a pretty big laser to cut 1/4" stainless. Waterjet would be better IMO. Last time I tried to drum up interest in this it fell flat when the price estimates were posted. How much would you be willing to pay for each Rich?

I cut SS all the time - up to 1/2". BIG laser.


M

I cant draw and deliver the part in a CAD drawing or Gcode...
I can do it in pencil...

I can scan that.
It might be importable into a decent program...

I think as a standard part from Engman, its a good idea, provided its simple, cost effective, and there are enough people that really need them initially to cover the costs of the initial setup time.

Rich

Rich - If you need someone to turn your drawing into a CAD file, I can do it no problem. Send me dimensions, I'll make a 3d model and a drawing for it in solidworks.

-Chris

Pencil is fine - we will work it out.

M

gimme a few days...

Rich

whats a laser like that cost to run an hour?

I use a small one for model making and it aint exactly dirt cheap when you factor in purchase price/ per hour cost.

Depends on the laser and if ya get the employee discount.

One laser we have will do 600 1/16" holes in 16g in one minute.

I did not belive it until I saw it perform.

M

You need to make a video of this.. it would be cool to watch.


On Topic, can you make flanges for the cylinder head end of a heat exchanger? The ones on the 2 sets I have are just little loops of stainless that seem to pull loose from the tubes. I think a for real flange would be better than what is currently there.

Those are stub pipes, and CFR along with quite a few others sell them already made up.

Rich

Stub pipes wont work on a heat exchanger. It needs a flange to replace the loops.

The flange would have to be welded on.

Stub pipes work on heat exchangers if you cut the end of the heat exchanger down, and weld on the flange the CFR sells to mate to the stub pipes.

I will be doing this in the next month or so...overall is makes removing the HE much easier, cause you can leave the head studs alone.

I think that CFR's stub pipes use heavier guage for that loop thing.
a flange would not really work there, it would need to be stepped down, and custom mated to the head for each one, unless you open up that mating surface of the head to create a larger flat spot.
then you will hit the head studs...there really is not alot of room there.

Think about cutting the HE down and welding on the flange, I personally think that would be alot easier, and provides benefit in the long run...

I would love to be able to simply remove my HE when its time to adjust the valves...

Rich

Rich - I am getting ready to swap SS HEs for a header with stub pipes and have been thinking EXACTLY what you described = cut down the solid HE exhaust tubes and weld on a flange to mate them to my stub pipes. Makes for easy on/off and winter SWAP for heat! I hope to accomplish this over the summer

A small problem with that idea is the HE's do not have 4" of straight tube from the port face. That's the length of all the stub pipes I've seen. The HE's might have to be lowered for it to work.

or make reaaaaally short stub pipes with captive nuts/threads so you only need one socket and no wrench to hold the top side.

G01 x.0 y.0
G01 x.2 y.0
G02 x2.25 y-.025 I.5
G01 x2.75 y-0.75
G02 x2.75 y-1.25 I.5


Wait. What are the dimensions again?

Thats old school stuff there....

I do not miss the old days...

M

Mark,
Any news on the flange?
Thanks,
Dan

Schefuled to make them next week - - laser time.

Just got them - I can ship up to four for $4.55 - part is $11.50 each.

Will post pics later.

M

Top is the .25 thick ss piece

Bottom is the muffler gasket (shown for camparison - not included)

Wow, that's nice...