ok I have read what Pelican had listed on changing the oil cooler seals I just wanted to check with you guys to see if you have any advise. I'm new to the 914 and I love it. Oh its a 1.7 1970. Thanks

and get ready for your first wise-ass but all in fun answer.

don't change 'em if they don't leak.

and if you think they're leaking, make sure it's not the oil pressure sender just above the cooler.

I would advise that you learn how to remove and replace the motor...
Its really the best way to replace ALL the oil leak/seals in one session.

In the future you will take out the motor in 30-45 min..no sweat...so you really need to learn anyways...its all part of the fun..

when its out, you can easily do the oil cooler seals, the push rod tube seals, front and rear seals....adjust the valves, clean all the nests (yes nests) out from under the engine tin...

All sorts of basic stuff that is done when you first buy one of these cars..and its really quite simple stuff.

Rich

Didnt know about the sender I'll have to check that thanks. And yes it leaks (I expect some) Now I want to drive it 100 miles a day round trip so thought it might be time to fix that.

I've never pulled a motor out before just fixed everything with the motor in the vechile. Sounds like alot of work.

You can replace the oil cooler seals (and even replace the whole cooler) with the engine in the car.

But I agree, the car is new to you, so you should pull it and strip the tin. Then reseal it (the seals are cheap), adjust the valves, and clean up the engine in general.

BTW...

ignore this

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delete - seems like feature gone despite FAQ below

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Not really.
Stand by the car, pick a side...
Look down..
All the wiring on the drivers side gets unplugged, but the FI wiring harness stays with the motor.

On the passenger side..take out battery, unbolt computer and lay that on the motor

Under car, remove CV joints (probably the part that takes the longest...and that is less than 5 min per joint.)

Now, elec off the starter, fuel lines, clutch and speedo cables, shifter rod.

Then four bolts, and your motor and trans are out.

From there, you really want to remove the tin, clean the motor out of all the years of crap..it will run cooler, and run better when you are done.

Rich

do not forget to disconnect the transaxle ground strap from the chassis or tranny or that SOB will cause you to curse : )

remove cv bolts with special 12 point allen type tool - while rear of car is off the ground - preferably on jack stands.

jim

I knew some wiseass would catch the tranny strap...

Not really the point..a step by step instruction manual is on pelican parts.

The point I was making...
While yes you can change the oil cooler seals with the engine in the car, its worth your time to remove it, and really clean it, and get to know all about it.
Its a long weekend project the first time, but you will be driving YOUR car on monday, with alot fewer leaks, and alot fewer questions..

Dont be afraid to ask for real world help, get someone to come over and help you drop the motor...
It will boost your confidence.

Rich

I have never seen oil cooler seals leak BUT the oil pressure switch will leak and drive you nuts looking for the leak

oh boy I hope I'm not in over my head. On the postive side I dont have to mess with the FI since it has carbs. I might need a beer now. Thanks to all you guys I might bug you all with a bunch of dumb questions.