And please don't say "drop the engine" or "remove the heat exchangers".......

I am talking about the body side that is quite difficult to get to.


Fiid.

You said "please" so I wont tell you to drop the engine.

Its not easy and I dont recommend anyone try it until your ready to drop the engine for something else.

Getty the wrenches up there and not twisting the hard line in diections its not supposed to go.. is difficult.

Just getting the clip off can be a bitch.


B

Rats. Was hoping to get that done. Thanks for the 411.

Use flare wrenches or you'll round something off sure as hell.

Yeah...the old guy has it right....get the right tools. Crescent wrenches and vice grips just piss the lines off....

That's a really good point. I've got to get me some flare wrenches.

Fiid.

I did it. Used a flare wrench and vice grips, with copius amounts of penetrating oil. Coat everything down a couple of times, then have at it. It wasn't real easy, though. Required contorting into strange positions under the car, many many bad words, 7 scraped nuckles, and a lot of grunting. But it can be done. Give it a try, if it's too hard, wait till you drop the engine.

Good luck

I have successfully removed them, but have had to use heat to help. Make up an aluminum shield to protect the body. For this type of job I use a plumbers acetylene torch; it does not use oxygen tank, so is lower in temperature. You can get a 1/2" flame that is much easier to control than a propane torch. Apply a bit of heat, then some penetrating oil. The proper flare wrench is most important. Part of the trick is to get the fitting to rotate on the tube. Wear all manner of eye protection, and have fire extinguisher at hand. A safety person also helps. You never know just how much beer is needed. It can be done, just don't rush it. Use as little heat as is possible. Let things cool before disconnecting.

DaveP

I did this and it was kind of a pain till I figured out the trick. I cut the rubber line just above the fitting, then I was able to use a socket wrench to zip it off. Putting a new one on was no fun, but doable.

I did it with the engine in the car...but I used a lift so I could stand under the car...and I think I used a flare crowes foot wrench at some point or another...also getting the top one loose was the worst, and I think I ended up unbolting the rear prop valve and lowering it some to get more room to work. It took a while but I installed new rear brake lines, the vw "t" and the car stops great now!

Good luck...just be patient and dont break anything...

Tony

I just did this last week. I had a leaky line and was upgrading to SS braided. I also could not get the 17mm on the rubber line in a manner that let me actually MOVE the damn thing.

I also did what was just suggested. If you are pitching the rubber lines, just cut them off below the fitting and stick a deep socket over the end. You should be able to get an 11mm flare wrench on the top fitting. and hold while spinning the socket.

Good luck!

I know you are the "heat" guy, but using heat on 30 year old fitting's/brake lines scares the pee out of me.

Fiid,


I forgot about cutting the lines off so you could get to the 17mm fitting with a socket. This is probably your best approach.


B

Yeah - that's a good idea. I might buy a throwaway wrench and make a special tool for it too - :-) I have done this in the past (when I needed to get at the distributor adjust nut).

I wouldn't heat the lines - sounds dodgy as hell.

Oh - yeah.... Is it possible that my car would still have the original lines? They have 73 stamped on them, which doesn't necessarily mean 1973 (the year the car is from), but might. They're not in all that bad condition, but I want rock hard braking, so I'm going to new SS lines, new master cylinder (I thought I was upgrading, but I already had a 19mm). I'll go to bigger brakes when I go to 5 lug.

Fiid.