I have a 75 cis motor and the cis boot gets in the way of the engine lid latch.. so I had to remove it.

now the lid is up about 1/2" on the drivers side and I have to push it down to open the trunk, not to mention that I now also have to prop the engine lid up.

I was going to move the latch over, but I don't have a welder... maybe I will have to get one. (I do have welding experience)

Anyone have any experience/suggestions with this?

I have a welder here if you want to use it...

Will your shift rod allow you to lower the engine down 1/2" to clear?

My dad notched his engine lid lip to fit. I still hound him on that one.

I removed the engine lid latch, rear trunk torsion bars, rain tray, cut two holes in the rear trunk firewall for access to the fuel distributor and deaccel valve connection and one in the front firewall for access to the dizzy. I used the Maddog mount and set the top 7" from the pan seam ..... my engine lid closes perfectly with my Ricer bullet license plate screws.

If you're using the RJ or Maddog mount, try spacing the front motor mount down a little so the CIS boot clears.

Pics at 11

I have a 74 2.7 with CIS in my car, you need to remove the three screws holding the fuel distributor on and rotate the distributor. This will clear it of most obstrucitons. Then you need to notch the lid, remove 1/2 the ribs on the intake boot, and remove the lid latch and associated parts. Not to mention the spring rods for the lid. No problem

I'll see about taking a better, more reacent pic today.

There is a way to use Audi parts to move the CIS airbox. I helped DougC with his car, and it has this converson.




It works fine that way, and you don't have to remove the torsion bars or the engine lit latch.



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Um, DAMN. And I though mine was a bit of work, yikes.

i put a 3.0 with cis in....simple solution...drop the motor tranny by one inch frnt and rear....i think this was the salmon boy's suggestion
the tin and engine rubber air seal still work and the motor fits with no cutting other than the lid hatch...but i have no good solution for my ugly pins used for the engine cover....

Here you go ........

Slits... I like your setup, it seems easy and fast.

But how did you attach the 1/4"-20 nuts to the car? Did you bolt in from the back side to hold it down? I wonder if you can get black bolts, then they won't stand out.

Since I got so many 914 CIS guys on this thread... Have any of you guys put a oil cooler in your car? and kind of mpg do you get? I get around 22mpg.

oil cooler yes... is it needed i don't know...i just installed my oil tem pressure gauge last sunday...and have not run it yet....
but it is my beileve that heat is the biggest problem facing these aircooled engines....not all the time...but when you need it it is there to take the 'heat"

Yes, the standoffs are bolted from the bottom with very short 1/4X20 fastners. I just took a drill and drilled through the engine lid and support and put the pieces in place.

I suppose you could paint them.

I have tried several oil coolers as my engine can run 130 C. Mounting them in the rear above the transmission I've gotten down to 112 C. There are several threads on the need or no need for coolers .... there are as many opinions as assholes. I guess it comes down to how good your engine is. One says all the way to 2.7 without .... one says 2.2 and up. Whatever ... it's going to come down to when you drive it what temp you're going to see.

I'm still resisting installing a front cooler 'cause I'm a lazy ass and don't want to cut more holes and run lines.

I've never checked the mileage .....

I guess there is no problem with moving the motor down, but I don't believe that I need to... Slits solution will hold the engine lid down and I can used the factory engine lid springs.

The only problem is that the engine lid lip will rub on the CIS boot... I doubt it would cut through it over time...