The $50.00 paint job.
http://rickwrench.com:80/50dollarpaint.html

CCLIN914NATION

OK... somebody here has to try this. What a freakin hoot

Heh. Babydoll's owner has been touching up the paint with Rustoleum white (my idea)... the shade is just about a perfect match.

The original thread is here... http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showfl...part=1&vc=1

If you have about 10 hours of free time it's an interesting read.

It's awesome...I'm going to try it when my rust repairs are done.

69chargeryeehaa is the guy who invented this method. Just skip to his posts to get the gist of the technique.

I posted about this here about a year ago. I did a search but couldn't find it.

I read the entire thread on moparts last year. There was a point when the 69charger guy said "paint right over bare metal."

Then several pages later he said "okay, prime first if you are totally bare."

I seriously think about this as a paint option. But as my car is totally bare, I'll be needing a compresor and a gun anyhow for primer. I'm torn on it. I don't know how well it will work on some of the tight curves on a teener using a hard foam roller. I also don't want to have spent all winter prepping my tub to have to sand off a lot of rustoleum.

But the CSOB in me really wants to try it.

Maybe I should start testing on any of the chuncks of scrap metal that I have laying around.

Zach

Instead of Rustoleum, try POR-15. I think that's the route I'll go. Thin it out, take down to bare metal. It's high-fill, right?

I know that you are joking.
But.
You are not supposed to thin Por-15 more then 10% The rustoleum mix is getting thinned to ~50% as I recall (the consistancy of water).

Zach

Rust-o-lum doesn't come in Signal Orange. So I'll be spraying mine.

I think Trek should try it.
If you can buy it at home depot.............

can he reply to this thread, or is he still in time out

Saftey Orange is pretty bitchin

Kooooool .... new paint in time for the AR . The Brown Turd may just become Hunter Green .......

I'm doing www.bluewatermarinepaint.com polyurethane.

He can post on the "Inalienable Free Rights Site" .... C______P

I beat trekkor to it. I did try this in part. I painted my bumpers and lower portion of the car this way. I needed to repair a front bumper that was damaged taking the car off the trailer at Buttonwillow and the lower valance and front of my rear flares had rock pits and a whole lot of rubber build up from rubber coming off the slicks in turn nine at Willow.

It's a lot of work.

What you don't spend in the cost of the paint you make up for in elbow grease. The job came out really nice. Once the rest of the car is done so I can roll it out into the sun I'll take some pictures and post them.

I used signal red. It is an exact match to the Honda S2000 red used by Honda in 2005. I also took this one step further. I sanded the final roll on coat with 1500 grit sandpaper and then sprayed with a HPLV gun the final coat which came out glassy and smooth. It looks as good or better than the $5,000 single stage honda 2000 red paint job on my Jensen Healey.
Given a choice, next time it will go to a paint shop. As good as it looks there was alot of trial and error and alot of elbow grease. I probably have close to what it would have cost in a shop just in my time. I did it at night over a couple of months but what a pain.
The one thing I can say is that this paint is definitely harder and more chip resistant than a shop paint job would have been. If you research rustoleum industrial paint, which is what this is, it's a farm tractor and implement paint used by several Manufacturers for factory paint on their tractors.
I figure the next time I go agricultural racing and I'm diggin up the desert, the car will feel right at home.
Randy
Car 54 G production Porsche SCCA

ACE Hardware has a line of paint that is very similar to rust-o-leum with a nice orange shade called "Alice Chalmers Orange", which is probably what I will do my car with.

POR15 wouldn't work because it's sensitive to UV light - so it's supposed to be covered in exterior applications. You could use it as a base coat but I think it would be hard to get a good finish after brushing that on underneath.

That is awesome.

We should do one AT the AR. We could just hang out with beers and watch someone paint their car in front of the pub.

I have just the car......

C'mon Joe, let's paint the cab of your truck..

You guys are welcome to have a go at painting my car.

Seriously. Just don't crash it. It should be fine for a trip to AZ - and gets about 35 to the gallon.

i have never heard of this technique but it looks interesting.

i'll get a hood during my extended vacation from work and give it a try!

Yeah but does Rustoleum make that weird copper metallic color?

If you can polish stone, you can polish paint

mark

....not that it needs it....I'll bring a roller!

Rustoleum is the plan for my teener when the rust work is all done. It will be part of my progress thread (of which I have made very little in the past few weeks . . . ).

Rustoleum Paint Code #7779. Glosss Black.


=-)

Still needs to be finished with the super fine paper but I'm happy so far.

Chris, I should have know this would appeal to you. Have you tried it yet? Are you rolling or spraying? Looks like a lot of work, but it sort of fits in with the rest of my restoration.

Rolling, I'd rather keep as much out of the air as possible. I figure it is worth a shot, I'd rather spend the time myself than pay to have it done professionally, we shall see how I feel afterwards.

I have heard that black is difficult. I was curious about how black would work. I am doing a rustoration on a black car. I am concerned about the mounting costs and this idea has some appeal. I hope you will keep us posted on your black car. If some issues come up, it will be very helpful to know before I jump into this. My cat wont be ready until late Spring or early summer.

The cost savings is very nice. The amount of work may be more. However if you are doing BC CC then maybe there is not more work. Both methods require a lot of wet sanding. What about doing a clear coat on top of this paint?

I own 3 black cars & all show every flaw w/ such precise detail it's a wonder why I put up w/ them. Black is by far the toughest paint to get to look good... sprayed. I immagine it's just as tough to get to look good rolled on as well.

If you are going to use a POR product, I would suggest you take a hard look at the "Hard Nose" product....

Thom

I "never" would have imagined.

just as an update, that webpage was made back in October, and he had a 4 month update on a different page...

http://rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint-4mos.html

Looks pretty interesting. Sounds like it's actually the same amount of work as spraying the paint (minus the gun cleaning and compressor tuning). Even spraying the paint you still have do all the same prep work and sanding/polishing between nearly every layer you put down. A few things make this look a little more tedious actually... A. this guy uses 6 coats to build up the color. A basecoat/clearcoat would only involve one coat of base and maybe two of clear (besides all the primer prep. B. the roller method looks like it takes longer then spraying- as spraying actually goes pretty fast- and flash times of modern stuff have you preping for the next coat inside of an hour.



Four months isn't much to base results on. The thing I would be concerned with his method is the quality of the pigment in the Rust-Oleum. Pigment is the key ingredient to nice color and longevity (aside from some sort of UV component)... and nice colors require alot of it and it's not cheap. I would be afraid of Rust-Oleum fading from the sun. This guy is in Canada where there's very little sun most of the year... and the month or two that does have sun... it's at a very low and diffused angle in the sky. California desert sun is a bit different.

I bought a small pint of generic medium priced red automotive paint one time to do a valence (which ofcourse didn't see much direct sunlight) and after only 9 months it turned pink. Currently I'm painting my car silver and going for with the high quality Dupont ChromaColor System because with the amount of labor you have to put into any painting job- you're just shooting yourself in the foot if you cut corners with cheap stuff. Although, I am impressed by his results. Maybe for a beater/daily driver in a light-low-fade color like white would be fine.

Edit: The thing that does look easy about his method is the learning curve. Seems pretty simple overall. For my project right now- I'm having to do alot of studying, reading professional car painter advice forums, learning the tech sheets for all the materials, learning about gun tuning and air supply, ect ect.. It's not really all that difficult in the end. A newbie can get good spray results with like one or two practice sessions on random panels. But there is alot of studying to do inorder to understand the behavior of the chemicals and how to diagnose and treat problems before they ruin the whole thing.

With regard to longevity I can say I don't think it's a concern. The wrought Iron in front of my house which is at the beach in Ventura was painted with rustoleum black gloss 8 years ago. It sees days of rain, sun, salt you name it. It doesn't get to hide in the garage and just see the sun every once in awhile but it's still in great shape with no fading. That was part of what made me think initially that this might work.
Wife is bored and wants a different color so it will probably get painted this summer but doesn't really need it.
Randy

I figure if your car needs to get painted anyways, what the hell...give it a shot. its only going to cost you $50 and time.

Back in the early 70's I worked with a guy at Kodak who had a '62 (I think) Rambler. He did a Rustoleum metal roof paint job (Seafoam) on it with a small roller. It looked as you would imagine - horrible orange peel. But, he didn't thin it because it was just a daily rustbelt driver & he wanted it done in an afternoon. Had to redo it every year for 4 years because it kept chalking & flaking.

Yeah, I know, he didn't prep correctly - but he didn't care. Roof paint?

I have used Rustoleum products with good success, in rattle cans. With proper prep & proper sanding & finishing it can work well - for parts.

Wouldn't dream of using it on bodywork.

you can roller real car paint too.

I know a group of mini cooper enthusiast in the UK that only paint their mini's with paint brushes because thats the way they have done it since the 60's.

bitchinist paint jobs you've ever seen.

paint
sand
paint
sand
paint
sand

repeat...

My father was telling me about how, as a kid, he and his siblings tried to paint grandma's Ford wagon one time . . . using a paintbrush and a gallon of enamel housepaint. It obviously looked like garbage, but what do you expect for $2?

POR is not UV stable.

The hard nose stuff is VERY hard, I used some on my railing on my porch, I can't scratch it with a scrwedriver!

Mark

That's because the factory painted their cars with a brush.

I've used Rustol... on trailers but always added some hardener so it can cure faster and get harder. Pot life is like one hour or so at 70F.

but do they have rustoleum in Phoenix Red?

Just curious for those of you who have done this how did it hold up?

Go to the link and he has a three year update.

I am tempted ...

You NEED hardener.
If you are doing a flat or semigloss, the hardner will add glass, so you need to add a flat agent as well.

Without the hardner, the paint will be very soft and easily scratched.

Zach

What about a acrylic clear coat to cover it all?

I started a thread on 914world about painting my Monster SB and kinda got my ass kicked for my methodology. So I stopped posting here about it. You can read up if you like here:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic...156&start=0

I researched to the hills the rust-ol-eum painting methods. Bottom line is that it isn't true automotive paint and just won't turn out as nice or last as long.

Read what I'm still in the process of doing. It's real single stage paint, slow reducer and hardener. The only down side is it's basically a LPLV system.

But as long as you stick with the slow reducer and hardener, it flows and flattens out pretty nicely.