Driving up Mount Hood last year my oil temp got up to 260. Thought I'd do somethint about that. Started with a NACA scoop.

installed a small cooler and 3 inch ducting from the scoop.

Well?



Oops - to fast on the draw there

Small Setrab cooler.

I thought I would have to grind some clearance between the engine mount bar and the oil filter. I found a shorter Mobil Oil filter that fits and clears the bar easy.

I used a sandwich adapter with 180 degree thermostat to provide oil lines to the cooler. (Good idea Aaron).

If I need more air flow across the cooler, I can install another scoop in the other rocker panel and duct it across the engine compartment to the cooler. I haven't gotten the engine up to 180 with it yet so tomorrow I'll put some miles on it and see how it does. (Or how bad it leaks.LOL)
Cheers, Elliot

Hey! Gimme a minute here will ya?

El yut if ya need some thing a little different let me know I think I can make ya one a little bigger on th oil cooler side , another words we make one end to fit the hose and the other about 12 inch dia and squesh it down by hand to match cooler what ya think??

Home Depot ..... A/C - Heater floor vents

Oh yeah forgot to add after see this I can't believe my packages made it across the country in one piece

i can see yellow

I love new ideas. The real results will be seen when you run it and see what happens, but I thought I'd throw a couple ideas out there.

A couple years ago, my Dryer (yes a clothes dryer) kept overheating and blowing the high temp thermostat. The dryer had worked flawlessly for years, but all of a sudden, it would blow the thermostat about once a week. I replaced it three times before finally breaking down and asking this 70 year old guy at the appliance repair shop what he thought. His first question was, have you cleaned the lint catch? Yeah, of course. His next question was, do you have the accordian style exhaust tubing? I said yes. He said lose it; replace it with the sheet metal stuff you have to cut to fit. I said it only has about 24 inches from the back of the dryer to the outside of the house, but he said it didn't matter.

So I spent $3 at Lowes, fixed up a nice sheet metal exhaust for the dryer and never had a problem again.

Moral of the story? If you're gonna try this idea, maybe go with the rigid sheet metal exhaust duct stuff for better airflow. I imagine it might also insulate the air better from engine heat.

Speaking of heat, I think I remember reading that the air 6 inches from the ground is often times a lot hotter than air three feet up due to the heat radiating from the asphalt/concrete. I know you've already installed the vent and everything, but just something to keep in mind if you find yourself looking for still more ways to cool the oil.

I'm a little skeptical of the air pressure you'll be able to get from the location of the duct. Thats a long duct to push the air through and then push through the cooler, but I hope it works for you. Keep us posted.

There are a lot of modifications that can be made to the ducting. I was always told NACA scoops are fairly efficient. On a 90 degree day, how much hotter will it be six inches above the asphalt as opposed to six feet above? Who cares. I just want it to work. The Home Depot duct is there till I can find something better. I just wanted to get it installed to test it. I drive out to Hemet tomorrow and will see how it does at freeway speeds (80 plus) for an hour or so. I should have tested it first without the ducting. It might not need it at all.
Cheers Elliot

Should I paint the shocks black?

Cheers, Elliot

Aaron,
This might have saved you some time.

Is it 250 degrees hot?

Nice work Elliot. Let us know how it works. My money says it'll work just fine.

I'm sure its not 250 degrees hot, but it may be as much 40 to 60 degrees hotter than the air temp a few feet above it, especially in that all that sun you get in So. Cal. I'm sure just about any option is better then engine compartment air.

Like I said in my post, I hope it works out great for you. Just trying to help.

Do you think it would be more efficient to place the cooler closer to the vent? I'm just throwing out ideas....would the extra oil lines, thus extra oil necessary to fill them help along with improving the airflow over the cooler?

That sandwich adaptor is horrible for flow, the sharp 90 degree bends inside of it will more than likely pop the oil presure relief in the case prematurely and drop system pressure up stream..

Looks like a great install otherwise... Is that a Setrab cooler?? if so they are so damn efficient it didn't need the air hose!

Those brakes are rusty... I wouldn't stand for that.

Looks good Elliot.

At least you actually "DID" something about your high-temps vs. others we know who simply whine about them all over the Internet!

( those NACA ducts look almost custom made for a rear brake cooling system. )

(watch Aaron steal that idea)

Whats with the red crap on the pushrod tubes?

Jake, is there a better way to tap into the oil system besides the filter adapter that doesn't involve drilling/tapping the case somewhere? Sometimes a 90 degree bend can't be helped (914/6 w/911 oil cooler and the inlet/outlet to this new cooler), so I'm guessing the size of the holes in the adapter are as much as the problem as the sharp bend?
BTW, the outside air temp thing shouldn't matter, 100 degrees at rocker level and 85 degrees at the engine lid level (or 130/150) is still a lot cooler than the 240 at the cooler. Also, my guess is that the airflow is fairly turbulent along the rocker due to the location of the front tire, so the NACA duct should work OK-the air shouldn't just flow past/over it.

Nice job Elliot I did something like that on two cars and it worked OK. I even did it on my 6 wayback but had to add a large fan to move the dead air. I think you might consider that if you are in traffic or low speeds.

Elliot

I remember you pulling off on the Mt Hood drive.

I'm starting a similar project very soon... Any more pics of your oil line routing? It looks like they are in between the exhaust and heads, and then up and over the trans. What did you use to wrap the lines?

My cooler will most likely be placed Pass side, with a similar air ducting method, but I plan on starting at the firewall under the car and going straight back.

Ferg

The sandwich adapter was a comprimize. It was a quick easy solution and actually works quite well. It is a Setrab cooler and I might have gotten away without the duct. I drove about an hour today at 80 plus and the oil temp never got above 180. The ambient temp was about 50, so the real test will come this summer. I think it will be fine. I am using a stock oil pump and it seems to be supplying enough pressure and volume to do the trick. The next time the engine comes out, I'll install a bigger pump. Oil pressure stayed at 50 most all the time. once in a while would drop to 40 going around a turn. Over all I'm pretty happy with this cooler. I have some refinements to make but I got plenty of time for that.
Cheers, Elliot

The red crap is high temp silicone crap. Used it to seal the push rod tubes. FAT Performance originally built the engine and they use that stuff on EVERYTHING.
Elliot

You're right Ferg. The oil lines travel from the sandwich adapter back along the right side between the valve covers and the frame of the car. They then go over the trans to the cooler. With my headers it was I think the best way to route the lines and cooling duct. I haven't really wraped the lines with anything yet. I will be getting something on them soon, for heat protection and chafing. I also need to get some better clamps to hold everything secure. Tie wraps are easy but get brittle after awhile. I'll try and take more pics after I get everything more securely ....secured.

What size NACA?

I won't get a real test done till this summer when it gets reeeal hot. If I install a fan it might work mounted next to the duct. Somehow however I seem to think a fan won't be needed. Ask me again when I drive it to Palm Springs this August!!!
Cheers, Elliot

Thanks Elliot

No worries, I found them in the Pegasus catalog as small NACA ducts using the 2.5" tubing. Problem is, they seem kinda pricey @ $17.99 and 6' of silicon tubing (for brake work) @ $44.00.

CSOB's unite... any other NACA sources out there?

Find an old chevy camaro hood at a pick 'n pull, sawzall away. Should give you two 'ducts' to chop up.

I'll get right on that...

I found the NACA scoop at quickcar.net. Click on cooling devices then NACA scoops. They are 3 inch scoops that I had to trim a bit to fit in the rocker panel. They are $23.95 a piece. I used AN 10 fittings and hoses for the oil lines.
Elliot

That's the size of the Pegasus ones as well... 3"

Best price I've found is some guy on eBay. Says he has boxes and all sizes.

eBay Boy...

Here is the oil cooler setup that I built in ~1980. My car had the NACA duct on the right rocker panel and was very efficient there. The thermostat regulated the oil going to the cooler.

The baffle was added to spread the in-coming air across the entire cooler.

It worked perfectly for the 5 years that I used it. I removed it in 1985 in order to restore the car back to it's original condition and it's been sitting in the attic of my garage for the last 20+ years.

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