2.0 engine is out of the car with trans still attached.
Question #1 - I need to check compression (I know, it's easier before the engine is out but it's out). If I connect the battery (+ & -) to the solenoid will the engine turn over? Will this damage anything. Obviously I am not trying to start it just want to turn it over to measure compression.
Question #2 - If I find that compression varies on some cylinders I would like to be able to determine if it is rings or valves leaking. My plan was to put my rubber tipped blower nozzle into the sparkplug hole, pressurize and listen into case, intake or header to see if I hear a leak. The problem is as soon as I pressurize the cylinder the piston moves to the bottom of the stroke. Any ideas as to how I can keep the cylinder on TDC?
Full Version: ATTN: Engine guys - need a solution
Buy a leak down gauge the piston has to be a complete TDC
Get the flywheel lock tool.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-VOLKSWAG...1QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VW-VOLKSWAG...1QQcmdZViewItem
Step on the brakes....
The flywheel lock is the ticket.
BJH
The flywheel lock is the ticket.
BJH
Any way to do this w/o removing the trany?
Also anybody got any comments on question #1? Believe it or not I've never had to hotwire a car so I don't know if that's the way to do it.
Also anybody got any comments on question #1? Believe it or not I've never had to hotwire a car so I don't know if that's the way to do it.
While a leakdown test is best (you can buy a leakdown tester at Harbor Freight for about $65), you can do a compression test.
Hook the + lead of a battery charger or battery to the normal lead on the solenoid. Hook the negative lead to the starter case, tranny or engine.
Using a screwdriver, jump from the + big lead to the spade terminal on the starter ... the engine will spin just like you were using the key.
Make sure you hold the throttle wide open and pull all the plugs prior.
Hook the + lead of a battery charger or battery to the normal lead on the solenoid. Hook the negative lead to the starter case, tranny or engine.
Using a screwdriver, jump from the + big lead to the spade terminal on the starter ... the engine will spin just like you were using the key.
Make sure you hold the throttle wide open and pull all the plugs prior.
QUOTE
The problem is as soon as I pressurize the cylinder the piston moves to the bottom of the stroke.
Then you're not really at TDC.
QUOTE(SLITS @ Feb 27 2007, 07:34 PM) 
While a leakdown test is best (you can buy a leakdown tester at Harbor Freight for about $65), you can do a compression test.
Hook the + lead of a battery charger or battery to the normal lead on the solenoid. Hook the negative lead to the starter case, tranny or engine.
Using a screwdriver, jump from the + big lead to the spade terminal on the starter ... the engine will spin just like you were using the key.
Make sure you hold the throttle wide open and pull all the plugs prior.
Thanks Slits - If I do this wrong does it become an arc welder?
Hey McMark...
thanks for clarifiying that!
The leak down test is a true disgnostic evaluation, compression tests are virtually worthless...
Buy the leak down and make sure it has DUAL pressure gaiges, the cheap ones have one and they suck! Get the engine WARM and then get the engine to TDC, lock the car in gear and lock the E brake....This will hold the engine at TDC...
Listen for the leakage and go from there.
Buy the leak down and make sure it has DUAL pressure gaiges, the cheap ones have one and they suck! Get the engine WARM and then get the engine to TDC, lock the car in gear and lock the E brake....This will hold the engine at TDC...
Listen for the leakage and go from there.
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