I have purchased a MB oil cooler ( thanks Bruce Stone ) that I plan on installing on my 75 chassis to cool a yet to be purchased 6 cylinder Porsche engine. Most of the pics I have seen on this forum and others it looks like most installations cut the tub and box out the area for the cooler. I don't want to do this if possible. The cooler I am buying measures roughly 20x4x3 ( 20 wide,4 high and just under 3 thick ). I am backdating the front bumper to the early metal bumper. Is there a aftermarket valance that will allow the oil cooler to be installed without cutting the tub? What have you guys done to install front coolers? Pics would be helpful. I'll cut the tub as a last resort but I'm sure there are creative ideas out there

I have seen late model front bumpers gutted and the cooler mounted behing that big old rubber shell.

It would be difficult to get sufficient air into and out of the cooler in a restrictive space. Next, there is much less protection forward of the tub. I suspect that is why the factory engineers placed the GT oil cooler where they did.

I was at a swapmeet (914) last Sep. in Riverside. I spoke to a Gentleman with

a very clean 914-4, he had a cooler set up installed that did not go thru the

front bumper. The cooler was located in the spare well but the intake and exhaust

were located below. I met Clayton that day, maybe he knows who that was or

what kit that is.

make sure to clean and pressure test used coolers.

coolers need air flow.... hard to do without cutting the tub.
if you are going to run the lines all the way to the front, why not 'finish' the job and duct it?

If someone is selling fiberglass 75 bumpers you can try to mount the oil cooler on the center bottom aimed down and the air can come in for the FOG light holes. Mikes idea I think will work. My car does have factory GT oil cooler but it was with solid 70 bumper with only the air coming from the fog light grills. My car worked fine with that much airflow. I am changing that (to cut metal GT style) but if you go with Fiberglass you will get some protection in a parking bump. The question of the amount of air that is needed the keep your engine cool. My first 78 911 SC had nothing more than a Loop D Loop Cooler in the fended well for an external oil cooler. One of the guys in the club has been having trouble with running warm so nothing is for sure till you try it. Except the factory set up. I say give it a try.


Bob

It just doesn't make sense to me to install a oil cooler in the trunk. I'm not too concerned about protection meaning if your in a wreck a damaged cooler is probably the least of your worries. I will flush and pressure check the cooler. It just seems to me the way the tub kinda tapers at the bottom edge that a cooler could be mounted there with room for air to exit out. I guess I'll see when I actually get the cooler in hand. Thanks guys.

Try this I have the same MB cooler coming for one of my other cars and it will go the same way no cutting of front except where the air exits but that is in the wheel area under the headlight bucket The air comes in from the five OEM plugs. FYI this setup is cooling a 3.2 putting out 247hp never hit over 210 under extreme load and driving.
The cut in the lower truck pan was a bad move move But has been closed back up.

heeltoe914 in the 2nd pic what is the round cannister that the oil lines are going to is it a oil filter? If it is does the cartridge come out the top or bottom? What size "AN" hose did you use? Thanks

Just to show the guys that have never seen what was on the 911SC for oil cooler? This one is $15 on Ebay. Would it work on a 914 in the fender well?

Bob

actually, some of the early factory cars had the cooler simply mounted under the bumper.

yes, less air-flow than with a real duct, but it works just fine ...
Andy

Its a fine fine cleaning filter That I like to use on expensive motors. AN-12 all around but are you running a 4 or a 6??

Maybe it would work and your temp will go down for a few reasons. but remmeber the 911 gets more air over the top of the heads as well not like the bad air we get in a 914.

Well when I get around to needing a engine it will be a 911 6 cylinder, I'm guessing about 2 years from now I'm going thru the chassis,converting to 911 5 lug,upgrading brakes,chassis stiffening you know all the things that drain your wallet But as I see parts available I'm picking them up as I can.

I HATE cutting the tub! However, if you plan on converting to a six, I would suggest cutting the bumper now rather than later. I have done this modification with both the original steel and composite bumpers. I used a composite duct and exited through the factory floor plugs in the front trunk. I have had both cars near redline in 5th gear and the front hood stayed on!

Dan

I'm guessing what you'd really like to do is this: take out the rubber plugs as Healtoe914 has, mount your cooler & then take out the round access plates as Dan (xitspd) has. This would involve no cutting to mount the cooler. You'll still have to cut something somewhere to run the lines.

Maybe I'm being stubborn ( German heritage ) but I think I can mount the cooler under the bumper and not have to cut the tub OR run exit air thru the front trunk. Maybe I'm wrong but I'll see once I receive the cooler. I think it can be mounted low enough to allow the air to exit straight back like the pic of the 914 listed above. I will run the oil lines along the wheel well/rockers like a 911 does so no cutting of the chassis. I first have to get the backdated front bumper mounted for a visual reference point, I have some "dogbones" coming so I'll mount the bumper and go from there. I have a thousand things going at once on the 914 so I'll get there. If it doesn't work you guys have provided plan B. Thanks

GT Racing makes a spoiler just for this application. I am installing a cooler up in this location but I will section the stock valence to make it fit.

There is alot of space behind the cooler to let the air flow thru.Click to view attachment

Next project is to mount the cooler under the front trunk floor** and duct from the front valence area. Also run the lines under the car to avoid cutting.

**Saw a 911 years ago with the A/C condensor mounted in that fashion .....

NO HOLES.

IMHO you are putting the horse before the cart. What size engine will you be running, and what are you going to do with the car when you get it "done" (the only time you are really done is when you sell the car!).

Contrary to "expert" opinions, you can get enough thermal reduction by simply running oil through the cooler, without having direct airflow over the cooler. Sort of like the brass hard lines on the early 911's running to the front of the car, which help cool the oil.

I had very good results with a carb'd 3.0 SC engine and a Mocal 25 row cooler in the forward part of the right rear quarter panel, just behind the door jamb. It took a fair amount of fitting to get it in there, and I had attached a Spal fan directly to the cooler (which later crapped out), and the car never got over 220-230* on a long trip on a hot day. This wouldn't work for a track car, autocross maybe I dunno.

I'm not a big fan of putting oil coolers in the front valance on a street car. It's just too vunerable. Ever hit a road gator or bump a parking curb a little harder than planned? You can get away with it on a track car because it's a sheltered environment, of course there's not 100% control over that either.

I would look at a comprehensive approach at the situation, and not base engineering the project around a deal on an oil cooler.

You asked for opinions.....

machina that is exactly what I'm talking about. I would like to see pics of your custom stock valance ( once done )as I have thought about doing that also. Slits I have considered that option as well, on my 83SC I mounted a huge AC condensor on the floor pan and it works great ( when moving ). 9146986 I don't believe I am putting the cart before the horse but I appreciate all feedback. I live in Orlando and it is hot and humid 9-10 months out of the year. Regardless of engine size I had already made up my mind that a extra oil cooler was going on/in my -6 conversion based on the results with my SC. I understand the concern of the oil cooler being vulnerable but I'm the only one that will drive it and if I screw it up I know who to blame. I really appreciate everyone's feedback....................thanks.

There is one on EBay right now Item number: 130085605996 $91.46 Reserve not met. NEW OLD STOCK GT RACING AIRDAM W BRAKE+OIL COOLER DUCTS

Bob

actually i got ahead of myself here, before i scrap my current cooling system i am going to try ducting air to each cooler via a NACA duct in the side valences.

my cooling rig worked but not as well as i had hoped on super hot summer track days down here in FLA.

the pic show the coolers plumbed in parallel but now they are plumbed in series which did help things a bit.Click to view attachment

A fellow in TX, Rich (forget his last name) put a cooler next to the tranny with an electric fan, under the trunk floor. I did the same mount, but cut a hole in the trunk and mounted the fan inside. Either way, it kept tems down just fine, no cutting was required, oil lines were much shorter not requiring them to be run all the way up front.

However, for track use (DE or racing) up front is recommended for ultimate cooling.

What size motor?

I'm running my 2.7 without an external cooler and so far it runs in the 205-215 range on a 95 degree day.