I my 914. This one is really special. Extremely clean, rust free (no really!) and original. I parted with my last one when I really didn't want to and regretted it severely!

However, the car is depressing me! After Clay helped me put the FI back on (which turned in to a mild debacle) she ran like a dream for a while, then the rebuilt feul pump started to "whine". It's internment so I still haven't diagnosed that propperly. Then I put new plugs in (on the recommendation of Clay) and now the damn thing is running like an old Briggs and Stratton Hit & Miss engine.

I am NOT mechanical. I never have been. I know enough to diagnose and fix small problems but don't really even have the base knowledge about engines that most all of you guys take for granted.

Am I kidding myself trying to own a 914? It seems like the maintenance never ends and after having the car (in running condition) for about a year now, I've barely been able to enjoy 2-3 months of driving!

Should I just give up and let someone else who has more know how and mechanical stamina take care of the old girl?

Suicidally yours..

Doug

Doug,
Don't give up!!! Everyone here will help you out. It just takes some patience to keep one of these wee beasties running. Working with you on the FI showed me that you have the ability to repair these things, but you don't hve the experience. We can fix the experience.

Check all the plug wires and make sure they are on tight. Also, did you know any injector leads off?

I can't come over now, I am in California. But if you tell us what is going on, we can help troubleshoot.

Sorry to here. But really, these are on the plus side of 30 years old now. If you don't have the skills to keep it going, fine a local mechanic that you can trust and have him/her... keep up with the maintainance. It's important to keep up with the little things before that get big. These air cooled engines don't like when they are out of tune. They tend to self destruct as a result of neglect. My advise, find someone you can trust and stick with it.

If you don't want to do the work, just bite the bullet and get it to someone who can make it right. Then it. These cars can be quite reliable once you get everything sorted out. No need to give up.

Well, you blew your excuse.

It is never much more complicated than that, just maybe takes longer, or requires more contortion, or you gotta measure something. Mechanical ability isn't gonna be as effective as persistance with a 914.

That Briggs & Stratton sound is a sure sign of no fire somewhere. Start it up and after it warms a little, put on a glove then pull the plug wires off and reattach one at a time. See which one makes no difference- that is the problem cylinder. Then be sure that there is power there- see if a spark jumps from the wire to thecooling sheetmetal or some other ground. Check those injector wires, and maybe put in a different plug.

Just keep punching at it...

Hang in there Doug!

I am also an amatuer mechanic. I have found that everytime I attempt a large project on a 914 (converting to the original FI would definitely qualify) it takes a bit of time to really sort things out. Mainly due to 1) it is the first time I have ever attempted anything like it; and 2) these cars are old.

But once I get through that phase, the car is rock solid (till I take it apart again ). The point is, converting your car from carbs back to FI is not a small project. You are still in your "shake down cruise". Keep at it.

If all else fails, follow the advise of others and seek and pay a professional. These car are worth the effort and money. But, I predict that you won't need this option.

good luck

Doug: HANG IN THERE! You're just sorting things out. Give it a bit of time. ALSO, Run it by Wes. He can listen to it and either do the work, or tell you what's up.

I'll trade you the engine problems for my current rustoration work.

I learned on my first 914 was that the only way that I could have one of these cars is to learn how to work on them myself. I wasn't mechanical at all when I started out. Some items you do need help with, but you have to get your hands dirty.

First rule of troubleshooting, what work was just recently done? So I would suspect the plugs by your post.

To help me do mainenance on my engine by myself, I installed a momentary pushbutton switch for the starter on the left side of the engine compartment. Then I can turn on the ignition and crank engine from there and watch/check what I want or just crank the engine for setting valves. It's really come in handy. For setting the timing, I use a stick to push the starter button while I rotate the distributor until it starts, works like a charm.

Good Luck, Don

Thanks guys... Nice to know that I'm not alone.

It's just that when I get myself painted into a corner like this I feel so inept!

God forbid this happen on the side of the road. I'd have a mental meltdown!

Clay, my next step was to buy new plug wires as I know that the ones on the car are REALLY OLD. When I put the plugs in, I read the Haynes manual and gapped them to what the book said. I didn't think about checking the FI plugs to see if I knocked one out. I'll do that in the next day or two.

Thanks

DOug

I would say that without some moderate mechanical skills and a lot of time I would be scared to own a 914 that was not already fully sorted out. This is based on my own experience, I would be in big trouble with my car if I wasn't able to do most of the work myself. And there are still things I won't mess with, like body work, welding and paint. The biggest issue you will run into is that very few mechanics are competent working on the 914, I would be scared to take my 914 in to a shop that did not work on 914's frequently.

With that said they are a great car to learn on if you are willing to put in the effort and occasionally live with your mistakes. I learned most of what I know about cars from working on the two Porsches I have owned. But it takes time and dedication and a stupid amount of $$$.

Good advice on the plug wires, on learning to love it, and, the default, a good mechanic. The love-life thing may benefit from a little 914-viagra: Get Goe. Hussey's 700 tips book, and the almost-free, not-quite-full-set of Up-Fixin der Porsche from the PCA (join if you haven't--worth it just for the u--books), and use them as bedtime reading, or bathroom, or in the desk drawer at the office. Soon you'll have the hots for the car, just thinking about a wrench.

Coming to the defence of our little friends, out of all the cars I have had the

914 is one of the simplest to to work on as far a design, bugs were the easiest.

It's all in a very small package and that is the hard part, but the inner workings

are very simple. From what Clay says about you I see know reason for you to

sell something that effects you the way it does me. You wouldn't get rid of your

kids because your not a doctor and can't fix them. Alot of people here have gone

thru the samething you are going thru and prevailed, even exceeded. We have a

great support base here, it would be a shame for you to sell your teener to

some bonehead that will destroy it... or put in a V8.

I'm a computer nerd and own a 914. Fortunately, idiots like me can even get into VW engines...I daily drive mine (every day) without many issues now that I learned how not to destroy an engine quickly (into three engines now--first one was toast anyway)

I'm also a two time award winner for the Dirtiest Engine, but thats another story alltogether.

There are a few things you can do to diagnose your problem... you need to know whether you are missing spark or fuel. The easy way to check spark, if you have a timing light, is to hook up the timing light, start the engine, and move the sensor to each wire in turn and see if the light still goes. We had this problem with Babydoll ('74 D-Jet) late last year, resulting in the removal of an unreliable Crane ignition and the reinstallation of the stock (points-type) ignition.

Checking for fuel is a bit more involved, but what I do is to turn the ignition on and work the throttle. You can identify which injectors are firing by sound and feel (they work in pairs). Disconnect one of each pair and make sure they both fire. Then bump the engine until you can get the other pair to fire, and repeat the test.

These are quick and dirty checks that have usually worked for me.

If you're still stumped, hopefully you can find a good mechanic in your area. Don't rule out VW guys if they work on air cooled, they may know more about diagnosis than Porsche guys who work on 911's or water pumpers.

I became a mechanic (professionally employed at a couple of Porsche shops) as a result of my early obsession with air cooled VW's. I couldn't afford to pay anyone to fix my car, so at 17 I spent $100.00 on tools a K-mart, bought the crappy Haynes manual on old VW's, The Idiot's Guide to VW Repair, and dug in. I asked for lots of help, got plenty of good and bad advice, and learned to be a half-assed decent mechanic. Some of my rules to fixing cars- When there's a problem, look first at the last thing you fixed (screwed up). Another big rule for me is to check the bulbs and fuses first, before you start ripping wires out, and a third rule, check the basics.
These rules, distilled, are- double check your work, check the easy stuff first, and a third rule, check the basic things that make an engine run.
The basics
Spark- Is there any? Is it strong enough? Is it happening at the right time?
Fuel- is there any? Is it getting to the engine? At the right pressure? Is it getting into the cylinders?
Compression- Is there any? Is it consistent? is there enough?
Look at the mechanics you see around, they're not Einsteins, mostly. If they can do it, you can do it.

Most of us got to be the mechanics we are by getting our hands dirty. Experience always takes time. Futzing around with these old cars can develop a better understanding than most mechanics in school. Many 'mechanics' can only plug in a diagnostic computer and replace parts; and they keep replacing parts until the problem goes away, while depleting your wallet at the same time.

What kind of plugs did you use? I haven't had very good luck with platinum plugs... just regular old Bosch coppers for me.

I don't know where you're at in the troubleshooting, but when I'm working and things go downhill, the last thing I messed with is a good place to start.

Like others have said, go check the last thing you did. If it made it run WORSE, then you did something wrong. More than likely it is something simple to do/undo.

Are you sure you got the plug wires back on the correct plugs? Did you bump a vacuum hose off?

In the future, and to all rookie mechanics, do one plug at a time, remove boot, remove spark plug, replace spark plug, and put boot/connector back on. This makes it much harder to screw it up.

Another tip would be to label the plug wires so they don't inadvertently get plugged onto the wrong spark plug.

Check the fuel injector connectors to make sure you didn't accidentally remove one of them when changing plugs.

Also check to make sure the Cylinder head temp sensor (passenger side near #3 rear most cylinder) is not touching a ground or shorting against any metal.

Take some pics and post them. Maybe someone can see a mistake.

You don't have to be a mechanic, but it does help. I had to learn how to do it as I could not afford to pay to get my car fixed (still can't/won't).

Doug,
I'm in Addison. Just around the corner from you.
I can drop buy and give you hand. PM me.

My guess is that one of your ignition wires is bad.
I had a similar problem years ago, after changing out plugs.
I seem to recall that some ignition "wires" are not wires at all.
They use some kind of paste internally.
In my case, the plug connector wasn't making proper contact
with the internal paste. I pulled my hair out trying to figure out what
the problem was before I replaced the wires.
Only thing I can figure is that I accidentally pulled on the wire instead
of the connector when removing the plug wire.

In another case, it caused a heavy misfire between about 2000 and
2200 RPMs. In that case, it turned out that the engine vibration was
causing the internal paste to crack or separate and not fire one
of the plugs.
Talk about odd.... and painful (and expensive) to figure out since
it showed up suddenly after no maintenance and only caused
a problem in that RPM range.

After that second experience,
I now refuse to use ignition wires that are not made from real wire.

PS,
I've got a set of wires, I could bring over that we could try on your
engine to see if that is the problem.

---- bill

or NGK



Plugs & Wires sounds like you are almost there!

Good luck!

Jeff

This made me laugh because I was very concerned about getting the plug wires back on the wrong plugs.

Turns out that the not only did I do them one at a time to make sure I got them back on right, but I found out that the PO had numbered the wires for the same reason.


I want to thank everyone again for helping me get through the crisis of faith. I've got lots of things to look at, and I'll be spending some quality time with "Das Weibchen" this afternoon to try out some of your suggestions.

I'll let you know how it goes.

Doug

Bill,

Thanks for the offer. I'm going to do some trouble shooting today and see where it gets me, and I'll let you know. If you have some free time this weekend (and I don't get anywhere) I might PM you to see if you can help.

This group rocks!

Good News ( ) and bad news ( )

Good News

After going through everything I did again, I managed to get the car running smoothly. While I'm not exactly sure what it was that I changed, removing the plug wires from the plugs and checking all the FI & Vacuum connections managed to do the trick.

Bad news (Clay ... are you listening?)

While I was on a roll, I decided to take your advice and take the access panel under the gas tank off and try to see if the fuel pump was vibrating against something to make all the racket.

I really don't think it is. By using the fuel line, I was able to move the fuel pump around quite a bit and no matter which way I moved it (up, down, left, right) it never stopped humming.

A also felt what I can only describe as heavy vibration through all of the fuel lines attached to the pump. My only diagnosis is that the re-built fuel pump is buggered.

Give me a call when you're back in town and we'll discuss how to handle this, since you purchased it from Zimms.

Anyway.. Crisis of faith over. Turns out I was just having a horrible week.

Thanks for all the kind words and advice guys. It's great to belong to such a nice group of people.

Doug

I am kinda jumping in and out here, because I am working a bunch while in California.


If the fuel pump is bad, then I know Zim's will warranty it. But we need to make sure. I should be able to find some time to listen to it for you next week.



Keep the faith!