for that high gloss finish.

I'm trying to turn this 20' paint job into a 10' paint job.


I'd like to try clear coating it before doing it the hard way with 1000/1500/2000 wet paper, polishing compounds and wax..

Roger

VHT makes a clear coat for high temp applications.....basically a barbeque paint.....prolly look good after it was wet sanded.

What type of Rustoleum did you paint with & where? If it's a glossy finish now, you have to sand, period, to get any clear to stick to it. Also, I'm not sure but I think Rustoleum is laquer based so you should get a chemically similar clear & use that.

I wouldn't clear Rustoleum. It is enamel that has fish oil in the paint; that's what fights the rust. Takes a long time to harden.
Good news is that it sands and polishes out pretty good...dark colors tend to get hazy.

Looking for an alternative? I am using boat polyurethane, $35/quart www.bluewatermarinepaint.com

Hell of a gloss..

How did you keep a wet edge going with the rattle cans? I attempted one panel once (never going to try that again).

If I ever spray rustoleum again, it will be in a spray gun.

Rustoleum makes several different clears, including in rattle cans. Look on their website. You are are going to spray it and not roll it, right? Those plasticized paints are nasty to wet sand until they've dried for months and months.

All good advice except Rust-oleum is enamel based and not laquer and if you're in a voc state like California, no more fish oil, they have better and cheaper and more stable additives to prevent rust these days.

Like Paul said...

Use the rustoleum clear. You will KNOW FOR SURE that it is compatible with your existing paint. I have used it on a Rustoleum paint job on a race car.

It ain't PPG... But it looks pretty dam good. It will give you a 3 foot finish.

It just doesn't gloss up quite as well as the high end stuff. You will like it.

You have to spray it... IMHO.

C