Car is a 73 2.0, new TPS, new FI Points, new TS1, existing TS2 (its the 017), all intake runners, hoses, gaskets, and PCV are new, injectors were cleaned and serviced by witchhunter. Also all parts are correct for the 73 2.0. I put a 270ohm resistor in too. Car seems to run lean at idle (I have an air fuel meter).
I had the wrong TS2, because I replaced it with what I thought was the correct replacement. Upon further review, I put the used 017 piece back in.
The car had been sitting when I bought it, so I dropped the motor to take care of a few problems, and I refurbed the FI while I was at it.
Car seems to have good power and pull hard, but it doesn't seem to idle quite right. It oscillates between, 1000 and less than 500, while the air meter reads lean. Air bleed and the knob both effect idle, but I can't get it to stabilize or richen up on the meter.
Also, I have a euro-race header and MSD. Should I play with the resistor or the FPR to richen the car for these parts?
Full Version: 73 2.0 djet idle problem
does yoour ECU have the mixture potentiometer?
QUOTE(sean_v8_914 @ Mar 19 2007, 08:37 AM) 
does yoour ECU have the mixture potentiometer?
Yeah, and when I turn it, I see changes on the Tachometer, but not on the air fuel meter.
First thing - unless your O2 sensor is a wideband O2 sensor, then do yourself a favor and get rid of it. They are pretty much useless on these motors.
Now that it's gone, what is the indication that you are lean at idle? General sign that it is lean, is that the motor will do the 'lean idle hunt'. It won't hold a steady idle speed, but will fluctuate up and down (in the 500 to 1500 rpm range). If it is doing that, then you need to richen it up a bit at idle. If it holds a steady idle speed, then it is not likely that it is lean.
If you do need to enrichen it, first try the knob on the ECU. I forget which way does what, but turn it one way and the lean idle hunt will get worse. Turn it the other way and it should get better. Don't worry if it raises your idle speed as you say, you simply need to readjust your idle speed with the idle speed screw on the throttle body. If you cannot get the lean idle hunt to go away even with the knob turned fully rich on the ECU, then you have to look for another source of the problem (sounds like you are already well on your way with that).
Demick
Edit: just read your first post in more detail and see that you are experiencing the lean idle hunt. Try to adjust the knob on the ECU to fully rich and see if you can get it to go away. 2nd thing I would do is check the numbers on all of the FI components (MPS, ECU, etc) to make sure they are correct for your motor. Then start looking for any vacuum leaks. Could be almost any one of the vacuum connections in the engine compartment that causes it to run lean.
Now that it's gone, what is the indication that you are lean at idle? General sign that it is lean, is that the motor will do the 'lean idle hunt'. It won't hold a steady idle speed, but will fluctuate up and down (in the 500 to 1500 rpm range). If it is doing that, then you need to richen it up a bit at idle. If it holds a steady idle speed, then it is not likely that it is lean.
If you do need to enrichen it, first try the knob on the ECU. I forget which way does what, but turn it one way and the lean idle hunt will get worse. Turn it the other way and it should get better. Don't worry if it raises your idle speed as you say, you simply need to readjust your idle speed with the idle speed screw on the throttle body. If you cannot get the lean idle hunt to go away even with the knob turned fully rich on the ECU, then you have to look for another source of the problem (sounds like you are already well on your way with that).
Demick
Edit: just read your first post in more detail and see that you are experiencing the lean idle hunt. Try to adjust the knob on the ECU to fully rich and see if you can get it to go away. 2nd thing I would do is check the numbers on all of the FI components (MPS, ECU, etc) to make sure they are correct for your motor. Then start looking for any vacuum leaks. Could be almost any one of the vacuum connections in the engine compartment that causes it to run lean.
QUOTE(Demick @ Mar 19 2007, 10:35 AM)
First thing - unless your O2 sensor is a wideband O2 sensor, then do yourself a favor and get rid of it. They are pretty much useless on these motors.
Now that it's gone, what is the indication that you are lean at idle? General sign that it is lean, is that the motor will do the 'lean idle hunt'. It won't hold a steady idle speed, but will fluctuate up and down (in the 500 to 1500 rpm range). If it is doing that, then you need to richen it up a bit at idle. If it holds a steady idle speed, then it is not likely that it is lean.
If you do need to enrichen it, first try the knob on the ECU. I forget which way does what, but turn it one way and the lean idle hunt will get worse. Turn it the other way and it should get better. Don't worry if it raises your idle speed as you say, you simply need to readjust your idle speed with the idle speed screw on the throttle body. If you cannot get the lean idle hunt to go away even with the knob turned fully rich on the ECU, then you have to look for another source of the problem (sounds like you are already well on your way with that).
Demick
Edit: just read your first post in more detail and see that you are experiencing the lean idle hunt. Try to adjust the knob on the ECU to fully rich and see if you can get it to go away. 2nd thing I would do is check the numbers on all of the FI components (MPS, ECU, etc) to make sure they are correct for your motor. Then start looking for any vacuum leaks. Could be almost any one of the vacuum connections in the engine compartment that causes it to run lean.
Thanks thats good advice. I was questionable about the 02 sensor, but my header had the 02 bung, and a friend gave me a brand new 02 unit, so I figured I would try it out.
When I adjust the knob to fully rich, it does get better, but it still hunts a little. When I had the motor out of the car, I checked all the parts to make sure they were 73 2.0. All the hoses are new and they are the braided German variety. The intake runners are new. The TB Gasket, I made out of gasket material. There shouldn't be any vacuum leaks, but that doesn't mean there isn't one. This car has the fuel pump relocated to the trunk. Could the long run to the engine reduce the fuel pressure? On Brad Anders site, he says too much advance could cause this too. Any thoughts on that?
Also, the plugs show little sign of combustion. They are new and still look new. Not black, not white, not caramel color. They only have about 15 miles on them.
Relocated fuel pump shouldn't cause any issues. But I would check the fuel pressure. It is easily adjusted (fuel pressure regulator is located near the rear drivers side of the engine compartment). I don't know if timing would do this, but it would be a good idea to check the timing as well if you haven't already done that.
Demick
Demick
Run the engine to operating temp...At this point, you still have the idle hunt, Correct ?
Just for fun...While the engine is running, hunting for the correct idle, unplug the temp sensor on the top of the intake plenum...Does it stop hunting ???
It did on mine, never could figure out the reason, it just stopped hunting and stabilized the RPM...Perfect idle after that...Did the exact same on my current 1.7, so I just left them unplugged...
The down side is that it will make the system run rich, but I compensated for that by turning down (counterclockwise to Lean) the adjustment on the ECU...I know that is not the correct answer, but it works and the car(s) run great...
If you take this approach, be sure to cover the harness plug so water does not get into the plug...
Sorry in advance for the bad advice, but this works...
2-OH!
Just for fun...While the engine is running, hunting for the correct idle, unplug the temp sensor on the top of the intake plenum...Does it stop hunting ???
It did on mine, never could figure out the reason, it just stopped hunting and stabilized the RPM...Perfect idle after that...Did the exact same on my current 1.7, so I just left them unplugged...
The down side is that it will make the system run rich, but I compensated for that by turning down (counterclockwise to Lean) the adjustment on the ECU...I know that is not the correct answer, but it works and the car(s) run great...
If you take this approach, be sure to cover the harness plug so water does not get into the plug...
Sorry in advance for the bad advice, but this works...
2-OH!
QUOTE
I don't know if timing would do this, but it would be a good idea to check the timing as well if you haven't already done that.
I did time it, but that was when I was using the wrong head temp sensor. I don't think that should make a diff, but I kind of feel I should double check it.
QUOTE
At this point, you still have the idle hunt, Correct ?
Yup.
QUOTE
While the engine is running, hunting for the correct idle, unplug the temp sensor on the top of the intake plenum
Yeah, I should try that it. Brad Anders site says it will increase mixture by 10%. It just doesn't seem like the right way to fix it. But either way, it would be good to know the results.
You do have a good MPS right? Have you pulled a vacuum on it to make sure that the diaphragm is in good condition? Cross checked all your FI part numbers against Brad's list?
QUOTE(bob174 @ Mar 19 2007, 07:01 PM)
You do have a good MPS right? Have you pulled a vacuum on it to make sure that the diaphragm is in good condition? Cross checked all your FI part numbers against Brad's list?
Yeah it does hold a vacuum. And I did check all the parts. One thing comes to mine... The retard diaphragm on the dizzy didn't hold vacuum so I didn't use it. I plugged the hole on the TB of course. Would that cause a problem? I didn't think it was neccessary.
QUOTE(bob174 @ Mar 19 2007, 07:01 PM)
You do have a good MPS right? Have you pulled a vacuum on it to make sure that the diaphragm is in good condition? Cross checked all your FI part numbers against Brad's list?
Is it a Factory sealed MPS 037? or a Brett rebuilt one? It must be a 037 one as anyother one will cause a lean condition. What is the lean reading you are getting with the O2 sensor? AFR? Turn the ECU knob clockwise to richen the idle.
When I had the motor out I checked all the parts and I'm 99% sure they were all correct for the 73 2.0. The only reason I'm not 100% sure is everyone asking has instilled some doubt. Last night I checked the fuel pressure, it was low, like 26 lbs. So I bumped it up to 30.
At Idle the AFR gauge reads off the scale lean. I get AFR readings on the gas it reads good, and after accelerating and closing the throttle it reads rich. Its narrow band, and I'm not convinced it reads good at idle. But the car does have the low idle hunt. Honestly, I've owned 2 djet cars and they both did this. I really want to get this car to idle right.
The MPS held a vacuum if I used my mouth to pull on it. It is the 037 and has the seal on the adjusters. Should I have you check it out?
What about adding some resitance on the head sensor? It has a 270 ohm now.
At Idle the AFR gauge reads off the scale lean. I get AFR readings on the gas it reads good, and after accelerating and closing the throttle it reads rich. Its narrow band, and I'm not convinced it reads good at idle. But the car does have the low idle hunt. Honestly, I've owned 2 djet cars and they both did this. I really want to get this car to idle right.
The MPS held a vacuum if I used my mouth to pull on it. It is the 037 and has the seal on the adjusters. Should I have you check it out?
What about adding some resitance on the head sensor? It has a 270 ohm now.
Low fuel pressure will cause a lean condition. Try driving around again now that you've corrected that.
--DD
--DD
OK so bumping the Fuel Pressure didn't make a huge difference. I pulled the air temp sensor wires and now it idles rock steady, runs good, and even gives me readings on the AFR meter(whatever its worth) that look like what I would expect. I know this isn't really a fix, but should I take it as an indication that I need to either play with the CHT sensor resistor value, or add some more Fuel Pressure? Like I said, I have MSD, and a eurorace header, so I would think the car could support a little more fuel.
QUOTE(jasons @ Mar 20 2007, 08:13 AM)
When I had the motor out I checked all the parts and I'm 99% sure they were all correct for the 73 2.0. The only reason I'm not 100% sure is everyone asking has instilled some doubt. Last night I checked the fuel pressure, it was low, like 26 lbs. So I bumped it up to 30.
At Idle the AFR gauge reads off the scale lean. I get AFR readings on the gas it reads good, and after accelerating and closing the throttle it reads rich. Its narrow band, and I'm not convinced it reads good at idle. But the car does have the low idle hunt. Honestly, I've owned 2 djet cars and they both did this. I really want to get this car to idle right.
The MPS held a vacuum if I used my mouth to pull on it. It is the 037 and has the seal on the adjusters. Should I have you check it out?
What about adding some resitance on the head sensor? It has a 270 ohm now.
Does the MPS have rivets or screws holding the cover on?
QUOTE(Bleyseng @ Mar 20 2007, 03:38 PM)
QUOTE(jasons @ Mar 20 2007, 08:13 AM)
When I had the motor out I checked all the parts and I'm 99% sure they were all correct for the 73 2.0. The only reason I'm not 100% sure is everyone asking has instilled some doubt. Last night I checked the fuel pressure, it was low, like 26 lbs. So I bumped it up to 30.
At Idle the AFR gauge reads off the scale lean. I get AFR readings on the gas it reads good, and after accelerating and closing the throttle it reads rich. Its narrow band, and I'm not convinced it reads good at idle. But the car does have the low idle hunt. Honestly, I've owned 2 djet cars and they both did this. I really want to get this car to idle right.
The MPS held a vacuum if I used my mouth to pull on it. It is the 037 and has the seal on the adjusters. Should I have you check it out?
What about adding some resitance on the head sensor? It has a 270 ohm now.
Does the MPS have rivets or screws holding the cover on?
Screws, does that mean you can work some voodoo on it?
We've been through this drill about a million times, but we gotta do it again...
Many of the problems associated with the FI system are often the result of some other underlying condition. Before you do anything on the FI system, you have to make sure that:
1. The engine is in good mechanical condition - proper compression, proper valve adjustment, good intake manifold vacuum, no vacuum leaks, hoses plumbed properly, no vacuum leaks, all systems in place (e.g. PCV valve system in place and valve working properly)
2. The electrical system is in good condition - battery at proper voltage (at least 12.75V for a fully-charged battery with the engine off), charging system in good condition (13.6V to 14.0 V when idling). All grounds in good condition, and full charging system in proper order - voltage regulator, alternator, battery, and cables. EXAMPLE - I'm fighting an idle stability problem with my car right now that I have traced to a bad alternator, that produces an oscillating idle when I have the lights on - looks just like a lean condition instability.
3. Fuel supply and pressure are good - must provide the proper output and be dead-on the factory pressure of 2.0 bar
4. Ignition system in proper working order - plugs, wires, coil, cap, rotor all new or flawless, plugs properly gapped, timing and dwell spot-on, dizzy mechanical advance in proper working order, points plate moving smoothly, vacuum retard cell operating (essential for proper idle operation), vacuum advance cell operating (if on a '73 TB, otherwise, plug it). If you have Crane/MSD/Pertronix, set up according to the manual.
5. FI system bits all the right part numbers and working properly - check my web page for info. TPS properly adjusted so that the idle switch is actuated when you close the throttle, throttle stop set so that you get a full 20 clicks when you open the throttle, MPS in good shape - either properly calibrated by someone on the list with the tools and know-how, or an OEM unit that hasn't been tampered with (or a rebuilt that's been checked out). Pull the ECU plug and check all the parameters at the plug with a DMM (procedure described on my web page).
6. FI idle mixture set to spec - on most D-Jet 1.7 or 2.0 L motors, this means setting it to 3.0 %. To do this properly requires a shop-quality air/fuel gauge, an IR-dispersive one at a minimum, or a 5-gas analyzer. You should be able to get a local shop to do this for you for cheap, it takes a few minutes - make certain the car is FULLY WARMED UP when you do this (i.e. run for at least 30 minutes prior to the measurement). Once the mixture is set, set the idle to 950 rpm with the bleed screw.
If you still have a problem at this point, then the troubleshooting can begin.
Many of the problems associated with the FI system are often the result of some other underlying condition. Before you do anything on the FI system, you have to make sure that:
1. The engine is in good mechanical condition - proper compression, proper valve adjustment, good intake manifold vacuum, no vacuum leaks, hoses plumbed properly, no vacuum leaks, all systems in place (e.g. PCV valve system in place and valve working properly)
2. The electrical system is in good condition - battery at proper voltage (at least 12.75V for a fully-charged battery with the engine off), charging system in good condition (13.6V to 14.0 V when idling). All grounds in good condition, and full charging system in proper order - voltage regulator, alternator, battery, and cables. EXAMPLE - I'm fighting an idle stability problem with my car right now that I have traced to a bad alternator, that produces an oscillating idle when I have the lights on - looks just like a lean condition instability.
3. Fuel supply and pressure are good - must provide the proper output and be dead-on the factory pressure of 2.0 bar
4. Ignition system in proper working order - plugs, wires, coil, cap, rotor all new or flawless, plugs properly gapped, timing and dwell spot-on, dizzy mechanical advance in proper working order, points plate moving smoothly, vacuum retard cell operating (essential for proper idle operation), vacuum advance cell operating (if on a '73 TB, otherwise, plug it). If you have Crane/MSD/Pertronix, set up according to the manual.
5. FI system bits all the right part numbers and working properly - check my web page for info. TPS properly adjusted so that the idle switch is actuated when you close the throttle, throttle stop set so that you get a full 20 clicks when you open the throttle, MPS in good shape - either properly calibrated by someone on the list with the tools and know-how, or an OEM unit that hasn't been tampered with (or a rebuilt that's been checked out). Pull the ECU plug and check all the parameters at the plug with a DMM (procedure described on my web page).
6. FI idle mixture set to spec - on most D-Jet 1.7 or 2.0 L motors, this means setting it to 3.0 %. To do this properly requires a shop-quality air/fuel gauge, an IR-dispersive one at a minimum, or a 5-gas analyzer. You should be able to get a local shop to do this for you for cheap, it takes a few minutes - make certain the car is FULLY WARMED UP when you do this (i.e. run for at least 30 minutes prior to the measurement). Once the mixture is set, set the idle to 950 rpm with the bleed screw.
If you still have a problem at this point, then the troubleshooting can begin.
Brad, I can't tell you how much time I have spent on your site educating myself and verifying my setup. 
I think I've done a pretty good job refurbing this car that sat dead for like 5 years in the PO's garage. So please bear with me, I'm not the typical clueless guy wading through cracked and dry parts on his tired old DJET. I'm real close to having this car dialed, I just need a little expert advice.
The unknowns of your list, I accented in red as a matter of record, the one that stands out is the dizzy retard.
1. The engine is in good mechanical condition - proper compression, proper valve adjustment, good intake manifold vacuum, no vacuum leaks, hoses plumbed properly, no vacuum leaks, all systems in place (e.g. PCV valve system in place and valve working properly)
Compression is good, valves are adjusted, haven't tested vacuum tested for leaks, all hoses new including runners, plumbed absolutely correct, brand new PCV.
2. The electrical system is in good condition - battery at proper voltage (at least 12.75V for a fully-charged battery with the engine off), charging system in good condition (13.6V to 14.0 V when idling)
I checked the charging system and it appeared good, but I will double check it tonight
3. Fuel supply and pressure are good - must provide the proper output and be dead-on the factory pressure of 2.0 bar
Set the fuel pressure last night to just under 30lbs. My gauge doesn't read Bar. Also my injectors are all tested and serviced by witchunter. New SS fuel lines and all new FI hose otherwise.
4. Ignition system in proper working order - plugs, wires, coil, cap, rotor all new or flawless, plugs properly gapped, timing and dwell spot-on, dizzy mechanical advance in proper working order, points plate moving smoothly, vacuum retard cell operating (essential for proper idle operation), vacuum advance cell operating (if on a '73 TB, otherwise, plug it). If you have Crane/MSD/Pertronix, set up according to the manual.
New Plugs, New Magnecore wires, newer coil, cap, and rotor. Gapped at .028. Pertronix so no dwell. Advance plate checked out and ground wire appears good. My retard cell is dead! doesn't hold vacuum MSD is set up correct. I sent my schematic to an MSD tech to verify before install.
5. FI system bits all the right part numbers and working properly - check my web page for info. TPS properly adjusted so that the idle switch is actuated when you close the throttle, throttle stop set so that you get a full 20 clicks when you open the throttle, MPS in good shape - either properly calibrated by someone on the list with the tools and know-how, or an OEM unit that hasn't been tampered with (or a rebuilt that's been checked out). Pull the ECU plug and check all the parameters at the plug with a DMM (procedure described on my web page).
All parts are correct for a 73 2.0. I checked everything when the motor was out of the car. Brand new TPS adjusted correctly when I had the motor out. I'll have to check the 20 clicks, MPS is an X factor it holds vacuum, hasn't been tampered with, and is correct for 73 2.0 I tested the harness and parts when the motor was out.
6. FI idle mixture set to spec - on most D-Jet 1.7 or 2.0 L motors, this means setting it to 3.0 %. To do this properly requires a shop-quality air/fuel gauge, an IR-dispersive one at a minimum, or a 5-gas analyzer. You should be able to get a local shop to do this for you for cheap, it takes a few minutes - make certain the car is FULLY WARMED UP when you do this (i.e. run for at least 30 minutes prior to the measurement). Once the mixture is set, set the idle to 950 rpm with the bleed screw.
I'm going to have to get to my friends shop to have access to a CO analyzer
The item that stands out first and foremost is the retard cell on my dizzy. It doesn't hold vacuum, so its not hooked up just capped off at the TB. Also I should be clear, I have no decel circuit parts. Can I use the vacuum retard canister that aircooled.net sells or do any of you FI guys have an extra one, correct for a 73 2.0?
I think I've done a pretty good job refurbing this car that sat dead for like 5 years in the PO's garage. So please bear with me, I'm not the typical clueless guy wading through cracked and dry parts on his tired old DJET. I'm real close to having this car dialed, I just need a little expert advice. The unknowns of your list, I accented in red as a matter of record, the one that stands out is the dizzy retard.
QUOTE(pbanders @ Mar 20 2007, 04:41 PM)
1. The engine is in good mechanical condition - proper compression, proper valve adjustment, good intake manifold vacuum, no vacuum leaks, hoses plumbed properly, no vacuum leaks, all systems in place (e.g. PCV valve system in place and valve working properly)
Compression is good, valves are adjusted, haven't tested vacuum tested for leaks, all hoses new including runners, plumbed absolutely correct, brand new PCV.
QUOTE(pbanders @ Mar 20 2007, 04:41 PM)
2. The electrical system is in good condition - battery at proper voltage (at least 12.75V for a fully-charged battery with the engine off), charging system in good condition (13.6V to 14.0 V when idling)
I checked the charging system and it appeared good, but I will double check it tonight
QUOTE(pbanders @ Mar 20 2007, 04:41 PM)
3. Fuel supply and pressure are good - must provide the proper output and be dead-on the factory pressure of 2.0 bar
Set the fuel pressure last night to just under 30lbs. My gauge doesn't read Bar. Also my injectors are all tested and serviced by witchunter. New SS fuel lines and all new FI hose otherwise.
QUOTE(pbanders @ Mar 20 2007, 04:41 PM)
4. Ignition system in proper working order - plugs, wires, coil, cap, rotor all new or flawless, plugs properly gapped, timing and dwell spot-on, dizzy mechanical advance in proper working order, points plate moving smoothly, vacuum retard cell operating (essential for proper idle operation), vacuum advance cell operating (if on a '73 TB, otherwise, plug it). If you have Crane/MSD/Pertronix, set up according to the manual.
New Plugs, New Magnecore wires, newer coil, cap, and rotor. Gapped at .028. Pertronix so no dwell. Advance plate checked out and ground wire appears good. My retard cell is dead! doesn't hold vacuum MSD is set up correct. I sent my schematic to an MSD tech to verify before install.
QUOTE(pbanders @ Mar 20 2007, 04:41 PM)
5. FI system bits all the right part numbers and working properly - check my web page for info. TPS properly adjusted so that the idle switch is actuated when you close the throttle, throttle stop set so that you get a full 20 clicks when you open the throttle, MPS in good shape - either properly calibrated by someone on the list with the tools and know-how, or an OEM unit that hasn't been tampered with (or a rebuilt that's been checked out). Pull the ECU plug and check all the parameters at the plug with a DMM (procedure described on my web page).
All parts are correct for a 73 2.0. I checked everything when the motor was out of the car. Brand new TPS adjusted correctly when I had the motor out. I'll have to check the 20 clicks, MPS is an X factor it holds vacuum, hasn't been tampered with, and is correct for 73 2.0 I tested the harness and parts when the motor was out.
QUOTE(pbanders @ Mar 20 2007, 04:41 PM)
6. FI idle mixture set to spec - on most D-Jet 1.7 or 2.0 L motors, this means setting it to 3.0 %. To do this properly requires a shop-quality air/fuel gauge, an IR-dispersive one at a minimum, or a 5-gas analyzer. You should be able to get a local shop to do this for you for cheap, it takes a few minutes - make certain the car is FULLY WARMED UP when you do this (i.e. run for at least 30 minutes prior to the measurement). Once the mixture is set, set the idle to 950 rpm with the bleed screw.
I'm going to have to get to my friends shop to have access to a CO analyzer
The item that stands out first and foremost is the retard cell on my dizzy. It doesn't hold vacuum, so its not hooked up just capped off at the TB. Also I should be clear, I have no decel circuit parts. Can I use the vacuum retard canister that aircooled.net sells or do any of you FI guys have an extra one, correct for a 73 2.0?
Have you checked for vacuum leaks at the usual spots? No vacuum leaks is a must and that stands out too....you really have to check using some sort of either WD40, propane etc.
QUOTE(Bleyseng @ Mar 20 2007, 08:55 PM)
Have you checked for vacuum leaks at the usual spots? No vacuum leaks is a must and that stands out too....you really have to check using some sort of either WD40, propane etc.
Checked for vacuum leaks with propane. Doesn't mean I didn't miss something, but I replaced all the hoses (with the German stuff not American heater hoses or some crap), runners, TB gasket, Intake spacer/gaskets, FI seals. There aren't many unknowns, I was pretty thorough.
I checked the timing tonight after driving it for about 30 minutes(with the air temp sensor un-plugged). It was advanced a few degrees, so I brought it back to somewhere between 26* and 28*. I say somewhere because, its hard to get a clean read on the mark. Sometimes it walks a little. But it immediately sounded smoother. So, I plugged the air temp sensor back in and dialed the idle to right around 900 or 1000 and it held steady.
My friend manages a VW shop, so he picked up one of the VW replacement advance/retard units for me. Its not the exact replacement (NLA), but its better than nothing. I'll try that tomorrow. Hopefully saturday, the mechanic at his shop will have time to put my car on the CO analyzer.
How much is the timing mark "walking"? more than a 3/8ths" and I would check the dizzy shaft for excess play...
QUOTE(Bleyseng @ Mar 20 2007, 09:40 PM)
How much is the timing mark "walking"? more than a 3/8ths" and I would check the dizzy shaft for excess play...
I would say its around 3/8ths. However, shouldn't the dizzy have a spring under it? If so, then its missing, and I'm not sure how that will effect things.
How do I identify excess play? Up and down, side to side, or both?
There is some up/down play but there shouldn't be much at all of side to side play of the shaft. A wobbly shaft gives you crappy timing and injection timing.
QUOTE(Bleyseng @ Mar 20 2007, 11:02 PM)
There is some up/down play but there shouldn't be much at all of side to side play of the shaft. A wobbly shaft gives you crappy timing and injection timing.
I felt it back when the motor was out of the car and I thought it was OK. But, its not like I'm any distributor expert. I'm going to pull it tonight and put that new vacuum canister on it so, I will double check it then.
THX for all the advice BTW
The Pertronix should have cured *minor* distibutor shaft wobble. So unless it's really bad...
OK so, I installed the new vacuum pod and un-deleted my retard. It definitely made a difference in the behavior of the idle. I re-timed the car and ran it around a bit. The idle was still hunting, so I stopped and made some adjustments. Now it idles pretty steady. It oscillates a few times and stabilizes. I have the knob fully rich, which bugs me a bit. Hopefully I can get it on the CO analyzer Saturday.
I also checked the dizzy shaft and its tight.
And, I checked my charging system and had a minor scare. I put my battery on a trickle charger before work to top it off, because its been sitting for almost a year. I used my DMM in the morning and it worked fine, but I forgot to shut it off. Charged the battery, home for lunch, test the battery in my running car at lunch. DMM is telling me 9Volts. I'm shitting but, eventually I suspect my meter. Test the car with another meter and it reads as expected. My DMM went south between breakfast and lunch!
I also checked the dizzy shaft and its tight.
And, I checked my charging system and had a minor scare. I put my battery on a trickle charger before work to top it off, because its been sitting for almost a year. I used my DMM in the morning and it worked fine, but I forgot to shut it off. Charged the battery, home for lunch, test the battery in my running car at lunch. DMM is telling me 9Volts. I'm shitting but, eventually I suspect my meter. Test the car with another meter and it reads as expected. My DMM went south between breakfast and lunch!
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.