Does anybody make a ciruit breaker for the fuse panel that replaces a fuse so to pin down a wiring problem? The circuit breaker would replace the fuse and fit in the fuse panel so when you try and track down the wiring issue the circuit breaker would click off and could be reset. This way you could save a ton of money buying fuses.

Never heard of anything like that. I'm afraid you just need to get your meter and dig into it.

Do you still have a Scout II? I have a 79.

I think the Apollo 13 had circuit breakers.

I also think circuit breakers such as the ones you're inquiring about are more commonly used in marine applications.

Try a google search for something like "automotive circuit breaker".
They are out there.
Here is one example: Automotive circuit breaker
I've seen them used on electric power window circuits.
They heat up and separate internally. When they cool off they reconnect.
The one I saw in a car was not like the slim little plastic jobs used in
most cars today. It was a larger package, but ones that fit
standard automotive sockets are available.
However, for a 914, you may have to use some sort of wire clips anyway
to get it to work with the factory fuse holder.

--- bill

Any auto parts store. I've bought them at Carquest. They're expensive, around 8-10 bucks, IIRC. They're made to plug into ATO fuse sockets, but you could solder on some pigtails with alligator clips. They're available in different amperage ratings. Best to get one close to the specified fuse rating for the circuit, so you don't fry something. I wouldn't use one for any protracted diagnosis, but it's your car ................................... The Cap'n

I'd fix the problem first before I invest in circuit breakers. They are not going to be the answer to your problem. Fuses are fine.
When you reset breakers repeatedly, they heat up and get weak.
Try a meter.

I might try the aligator clips. You're right The size I want is the white 8 amp fuse so I don't fry the wiring, which I have already done. The circuit breaker is used like a blown fuse. I'll take a wire off what ever I think is blowing the fuse and test. If the circuit breaker "breaks" then I try some other wire. Brad Meuyer told me he is almost out of white fuses! since I have worked on the electrical issues.

still have my '78 scout 2 although I haven't seen it for about 2 years. Its in a buddies barn. I like my '67 scout 800 with the pick up roof better. Just cause I think it looks cooler. Both suck up gas. That is why I am building the '72 914 with a 1.7.

is it the same couple of fuses all of the time?

k

Replace the fuse with a 12v light bulb. A short or a load on the circuit will make the bulb light. Fix the problem, and the bulb goes out.

You can also share the problem with us and we can help find likely causes.

How do yo hook up the light bulb?

I'd share the problem with you guys but I got to get more fuses so I can see which ones are blowing out! Once I can focus in on the wiring problems again you guys will be going crazy with my questions.

Argh I feel your frustration, I'm going through the same shit here. #9 Fuse is the culprit. Frustrating as hell, still haven't found the problem.

what does #9 control? can't remember off the top of my head. if you have had the rear bumper off of your car and develop a consistant electrical prob you need to examine the connections for the license plate lights at the lights and where they pass thru the body for chaffing. the little tiny wires can produce a host of issues. a headlight hi-low switching fuse malfunction is one example. i chased this for a day or 2. i went back to *what was the last thing i did before the prob started*... i had r&r the rear bumper. it was the wires.

k

Hi Kevin, nope haven't had the bumper off. Last day I drove the car before putting it to sleep for the winter I was driving on a road that was bumpy as hell. I remember saying to myself this damn road is brutal. I look down at my gauges and all the gauges were out, no gas gauge, no nothing except the gen. light was on. Took it home, replaced the fuse and it blew the fuse. I put the car to bed for the winter. Now its time to hunt down the culprit, I have no turn signals, no gauges at. Something somewhere is shorted out. Matter of tracking it down.

I hate this shit.

4 bolts and the little nut in the center of the pad. check the plate light wires. you can see the condition of the grommit looking from inside trunk. give it a try. can't hurt and you can rule that portion of the wiring out. look for the plastic shielding/insulation that should be on the p.l. wire ends too.

k

If you want to find the cause of the problem, do the following:

1. Get your wiring diagram from the PP web site
2. Get a cheap DMM (I bought one at Fry's that was $5, you can afford it)
3. Pull the fuse that keeps blowing. One side of the fuse is connected to the voltage source, the other to the load. Measure the resistance between the load side to ground. More than likely, it'll be low enough so that when 12V is applied, the current will exceed the fuse rating (e.g. you measure 1 ohm, the fuse is rated at 8 A, I = V/R = 12/1 = 12A, too much current, fuse would blow)
4. Use your wiring diagram and go back through the circuit, systematically disconnecting components. When you hit the location of the shunt, the load resistance you're measuring will jump up. You've just found your problem.

Just takes time and patience....

OK, I'm looking at #9 on the '73 wiring diagram sheet 1&2 right now. I see it's connected to pin 15 on the hazard switch (red/white #1), to the stop light switch (black/yellow), and it connects to the instruments as a multiple source (red/white #2). I'd pull each one of these 3 wires at the fuse box and identify which one is a short to ground. Once ID'ed, connect that wire to the DMM and now go back through each component in that leg until you find the location of the short.

If your model year is different, the wiring may be different, check to make sure. BTW, when #9 blows, the generator light will come on because you no longer have the battery voltage balancing out the D+ circuit from the alternator. The voltage supply to the turn signal relay goes through the hazard switch - when the switch is in, pin 15 is connected to the turn signal relay pin 49, so yes, your turn signals should be out, too. Your back-up lights should also be out, your brake lights should be out, and if you have a center console, your oil temp and voltmeter should be out, too. Tach, oil pressure warning light, and fuel gauges are out, too.

Note that when you pull out the hazard switch, pin 30 is now connected to pin 49, powering the turn signal relay, so that the lights flash - but - the voltage supply for pin 30 comes from fuse #11, not fuse #9. Why? Because fuse #11 is hot with the ignition off, so that you can run the hazard switch with the ignition off. I'm pretty sure if you pull on your hazard lights and they work, and fuse #11 doesn't blow, then you can eliminate that circuit section from your fault tracing.

FWIW, what I wrote is specific to the '73 wiring diagram. I just looked at the '71 diagram and it's signficantly different for fuse #9 - make sure of the year you're diagnosing.

Thanks Brad for a great reply, my car is a 76 so wiring diagrams are nill for this model. Great advice and I will follow it tomorrow, when I find the culprit I will post what it was and the fix for it.

I suspect the '76 wiring is fairly close to the '73's, since the symptoms you reported match up with what the '73 wiring diagram predicts. Let us know where you find the fault.

The 76 wiring diagram is identical to the 75. Which is in Haynes, and may be found elsewhere on-line at times.

--DD