I'm sure knocking up my own stiff kit for my '6 can't be too hard. Does anyone know where to get a set of templates from? Also, does anyone know what thickness the steel should be?

Anybody that has the templates is probably selling the kits. They are less than $100 most places. Contact a914guy@aol.com, he has the kits.

I made mine out of 10 ga. It may be a little on the thick side, but I don't care.

I think Matt's problem is getting them shipped. $100 is cheap when it comes down to all the steel and the cutting and... and... and...

Getting them to the other side of the pond would probably be cost prohibitive. (although... you do have that exchange rate thing working in your favor)

You don't need them, do other things but you really don't need the kit. If you are worried about stiffness, do it in other areas.

Rear arm tab is hte week link, trianglelate a bar off of it. I added 3/16" steel onto my inners added a 3/8" steel tab to that, and ran a rod end down to the firewall area that is backed by 3/16" steel.

Just add pictures moron I have one on hte outside for toe adjustment also. An engmann kit in hte cabin area and a roll bar with a petty bar. A cage would be even better, maybe next year. I have a design for that in my head also.

Mocked up and ready for final welding

Ground down and primered with Eastwood's Coroless I spent a ton of time on engineered stiffining in this car this year, and it is stiff. The cage next year will make it as stiff or stiffer than most coupes.

Got to love the paint drips.

I have the templates also if you really want them, but........ Just drop me a PM if you need them, they where traced off an orginal GT / MYM471 kit pieces.

It sure seems like a lot of trouble drilling all those holes to save $60.00 or $80.00.
The shipping will probably add $40.00 or so, from my experience shipping to Europe.

There were a few threads here that went over the stiffening of the chassis. Some indicated that the kits did not really work well, and could be improved on. I think that they indicated that the cavities needed to be cut open, the reinforcing installed, and then the cavities closed up again. There were a lot of sectioned body shots.

That brace is actually very good and used on a lot of vintage race cars. I think it even got SCCA approval.

Stephen, I'd like copies of the drawings you have. I can compare them to the fabricated parts I have, and then produce a dimensioned drawing (Autocad file) that could be posted.

Eric's right, it starts getting expensive when you take shipping and import duties into account. I keep getting stung for lots of tax

Also, I've e-mailed 914guy before but not received a reply - I've just sent another one though cus if the shipping isn't too bad I'd still consider them ready made.

I know the factory kit is a bit crap and doesn't really address the rigidity of the car properly, but the FIA regulations the car has to comply with don't allow development outside that applied when the car was originally homologated for racing

I really want to do this - but I dont understand the single tab. Shouldn't it be a "U" tab on both ends to properly support the hiem joint? Is that head of the bolt tightented against the hiem ball joint?

cool stuff....

Who is the stiffing rod manufacture ... Nice looking part ...

Yeah, that does look pretty cool

Too many people believe everything they read here... [hint; don't believe any of the above]

Eric I have a GT kit on my car also, but I would do other things before the GT kit ever got installed. I would do these mods, a roll bar with a petty bar, and or a cage, a re-enforced roof or full metal, you should add re-enforcements at the A - pillars, a engmann kit, which I have a drawing of from 1987 that has my design, but Mark can have a few of my dollars to save me time. All of that then I might consider a GT kit, but then that is just me. I did it in the reverse order BTW, the GT kit went on back in 1998 or 99 when it was approved for PCA stock class racing, thanks to Jon Lowe. It is better than nothing.

The U Tab can be used ,it will pull the forces out a little farther, etc... You can't see it in the pictures but there is a welded nut on the backside there that makes up a semi U tab design. It is not needed, mostly it is used for safety on suspension pieces. But you can mount them in at a single point and add backing washers to keep them from separating from the chassis if they ever fail. If the bolt fails your screwed anyway. Them rod ends will take a load of 7700 lbs. If I develop that kind of pressures on the chassis there, I am not worried about the rod end or the chassis.

The links are from I am not sure anymore but I think Speedway comes to mind.

BTW, I have an idea right now, it involves a little bit of drilling and some plugging, but will make the chassis at least 200% stiffer than it is currently. It is radical to this community but used in a lot of other applications to create light weight extremely strong structures. But materials will cost me close to 1 G, I have other items to do before that.

Being SCCA legal or not depends on the class you run. For all the stiffening I did this year I take 3 points in NASA TT rules. I used them to my advantage all the small things will add up big, I use all my points to the maximum.

Dave, I will dig up the templates I have and send them your way just drop me a PM

The inner long kit was developed by myself indepently of any one else. If someone had made anything similiar - I sure did not know of any of it.

On the developement side of this there were multiple prototypes made before I was happy. Even last year there were a couple of small tweeks made to better fit the 914s on the road. I paid for all this as well as the big die for the press brakes.

I know how much time it took me to get a final product that fit properly.

If you made your own - bully for you.

M

The car is getting an X-bar in the roof (GT stylee) and a full cage.

Does anyone have any photos of the Safety Devices cage installed? I'm having mine built for the car but I'm interested to see how they deal with the dashboard in particular.

Matt - I have a full bolt-in Safety Devices cage in mine & can take pictures of whatever you want to see.

Let me know what you want.

Email: lightweight_911@hotmail.com

All great additions for stiffening the chassis in various areas but... if a car is going to have some HP, it can literally tear itself apart (read the Ralph Meaney thread in the Paddock). The GT kit helps tie in vital areas such as suspension ears, shock towers and tranny mount ladder frame members.

My $0.03

I hade the same problem about 6 month or so ago.

i made them by my self.
1.5mm sheetmetal, an package paper.

raw cut out the paper and tape it to the frame in place of the wanted pice.
with a felt marker run the outline of the wanted area
cutout and transfer to the sheetmetal.
cutout the sheetmetal.
drill the sheetmetal
bend the sheetmetal so it will fit as perfect as possible and screw it into place
buttweld
grind
paint
done
(sorry , my english reading is better then my writing)

hope this can help you out ..
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Your English writing is better than many native English speakers in this country, and they have no excuse other that stupidity.

Hey they learned me good.