THE FUCKING CV JOINT BOLTS STRIPPED

what di di do wrong?

i used the torx bit T40, turned. and BAM hit my knuckles on the exhaust.


ARGGGGGGGGGGH!!!!

That must have hurt a lot.

CV bolts are not Torx. They are triple square (unless you have replaced them with aftermarket ones). A VW shop will carry the correct tool.

Demick

using the wrong tool leads to pain...

triple square....

It could be worse though, almost all of mine were seriously stripped so I had to weld nuts onto a bunch of them. That sucked big time.

why didnt you use vice grips?

or pull the stub axle nut and pull the whole assembly out (assuming the trans cv is undone)

I did use vice grips for most of them . . . there were a few that the vice grips kept tearing apart and could not get any grip onto. The problem I had was was on the trans CV side (getting that off).


After doing one side I ended up going to sears and buying a set of those special grabbing sockets . . . Those worked great on the other side. I highly recommend those. They were priceless when getting the engine time cheeseheads off too.

christ.

i have not seen a VW shop around here i dont think.

i tried vice grips too. these puppys are stuck in good. i doubt theyve ever been turned.

Channel Lock item #410 is what you need. BTDT, on PLENTY of stripped CV joint bolts. Your FIRST mistake was using a Torx tool, but you already know that. This question comes up more often than any other subject, and the answer is always the same. Seems lots of folks don't search the archives.

Link to the tool:

http://www.channellock.com/acb/stores/1/NU...ER_8482__C6.cfm

The bigger one probably won't fit, the smaller one fits better but may not have the leverage you need. The design makes the jaws get tighter as you apply force on the handles.
Hope this helps you!

The Cap'n

Hmmmmmm ..... wonder if that'll work on a busted exhaust stud

Sixes are jinxed

My FLAPS carries triple square bits.

I think Lisle sells them.

They are just the bit. You use your own socket, but they are large hex shanks. I've been using mine for years. One is the correct size for the CV bolts, and the big one is correct for 911 flywheel bolts.

Mine are black, but it looks like they are silver finish as well.

Here is a link. They are available at lots of places. I think I bought mine at Advance Auto Parts.

Lisle 60750 Triple square

The Sears extractors are worth their weight in gold if you have a stripped bolt. I have used these on both stripped hex bolts as well as socket head bolts that have round outsides, as do the CV bolts. On the round head bolts, just use a hammer to get the socket to start digging into the head, and then apply counterclockwise torque. Out it comes.

Of course, use the correct tool initially, but on these old cars, sometimes the fasteners just strip out. good luck. Joe

I think this will link to the Sears tool.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?...UseBVCookie=Yes

Yes . . . those are what I was talking about, I couldn't think of the name. They work great when bolts strip and need to come out. They destroy the bolts so they should be the last venue to getting any bolts out though.

Yea well you needed to replace the bolts anyway.
Easy-out or those things shown above.

Ya know with the right tools I can have the clutch out in 30 minutes.

Thanks for this! I've got a stripped vw diesel head bolt. 9 out of 10 is not enough...

sears remover wont even fit.

this car is about to be the most frustrating thing i have ever attempted. haha.

the gap between the bolt and the center of the driveshaft isnt big enough to fit the boltout. no amount of hammering helped.

NEXT?

Drill the head of the bolt off. After you get the axle off you can remove the rest of the bolt. You'd be suprised on how many flywheel bolts the heads strip out and you have to drill them... Ugh...

might i use my dremel for that?ive got this really neato cutting wheel ive been itching to use...



i guess i need a source for the bolts now too.

Us a hammer and a chisel. Tap the chisel directly into the axis of the bolt with the chisel's sharp edge in line with the bolt until you have made enough of a shelf for the chisel to stay in, then gradually begin turning your chisel at an angle to the bolt head so you're hitting parallel to the axis, in the direction to screw the bolt out. I've done so many like this that I bought a 2 foot air chisel bit just for this job. On a lift, I could just stand under the car and zip one out in 5 seconds without even getting my hands dirty.

explain this a little more to me.

its late haha i probably am just tired.


basically im cutting into it so i can tap it out?
or am i just getting it started so it turns easier?

It's late and I'm not explaining very well.
You're using the force of the hammer on the chisel to unscrew the bolt.
In the first picture, you'll see what direction to hit at first, to make an indentation to hold the chisel. The longer line in the second picture shows what direction to hit to unscrew the bolt.

Haven't stripped one and had to deal with that issue yet.
Both PepBoys and Autozone carry the tool as part of a multisized kit. ~$10-$15
8mm is the size if you want to get a specific size.

I also like the version that fits directly on a ratchet
just like a socket.
You can get them here: CV Tool from California Imports
Its about $15 including shipping.

--- bill

I have always wondered what that tool was designed for. I got one from my retired uncle who worked in HVAC, so I figured it had a special purpose.

Learn something new every day...Thanx Cap'n



You are to mad and you are not going at it the right way.
First off, get the thing up in the air so you can turn the wheel (axle) and position each bolt to the easiest access angle.

Next, this is the first thing off, last thing on, so take your time and get good at it..all VW's with IRS use this bolt...and you gotta learn how to do it right.

I will assume that you are working on the transmission side, not the wheel side.
If you are on the wheel side...see the end.
First, clean everything with PBBlaster. Go get a can.
Clean the head, and the back of the stub axle.
You will see that the bolts go through the stub just a bit, and you can see the back of them.
spray that up and let it sit, do it two or three times in one day to get the bolt plenty lubed up.

Now, go get a real pair or channel lock vice grips. not some cheap ass chinese rip off that the teeth are softer than a babies ass...you need real teeth and hard ones.

this bolt is hardened, so you need a good tool to grab it, with hardened teeth.
Spend the money. it will last for a long time.

These come off, no matter how stubborn, with time, lube, heat and vice grips.
If you turn the wheel, you can fit any tool you want in there, up to two feet long...
So if your easyout, or other tools wont fit, your approach is from the wrong side of the axle, wrong angle.. I can sit on a milk crate and do these from outside the car...so I KNOW that a long extension works..it may not be correct, but it works for me.

If you are working on the wheel side, set the car down, take off the large nut on the outside of the stub axle, on the outer wheel bearing.
Remove but hitting that stub axle with a BFH and have a piece of hardwood in between the hammer and the stub axle...

Rich