Allright...the 2.0 transplant is 100% installed, wired and ready to start...although it won't. I'm starting to troubleshoot..I want to get it running today!!!!
First Question, I'm sure others to follow:

1) On the passenger side, the FI harness was cut near the the FI connectors to the injectors and was re-attached. The length of cylinder 3 and 4 harness connector are the same length and I'm trying to determine which goes to 3 and which goes to 4.

Is there a way other that trial and error to know I have it right. There appears to be no color difference either.

Thanks

mark, 3/4 are about the same length on an uncut harness, flip them. even with 3/4 switched i should think there would be fire on 1&2. got spark (pull a plug) and fuel (pull either 1 or 2 injector and bottle test for flow? double check the fuel pump fuse on the relay board.

k

the wires are printed with numbers on them. you could reference the numbers to the schematic in the haynes manual. but there is the possibilty that when the wires were reattached that they were switched. another way is based on the fact that the trigger points fire the injectors diagonally in pairs 2&3, 1&4. so you'd need to put on your thinking cap and rig a test with volt meters or something. good luck. I'd be curious to know if it really matters. maybe if their wrong then idle might be funky, who knows?

Still looking for ideas...

Black injection boots (wiring harness that connects to the injector) are for cylinders 1 & 3 while the grey goes on cylinders 2 & 4. Page 42 of the Haynes manual.

This is how it's done on the VW Type 3 and how it's done on my VW Type 4 i.e. my 914...I just went out to the garage and made a visual check.

I was told that it doesn't matter.

When I rebuilt my motor we were trouble shooting some problems and swapped them all around never really knowing where everthing ended up. Once we found the real problem the car ran great.

them got numbers on them ...

one thing to consider. your harness has already been hacked into, and i'm afraid there was a reason for the PO to do so.

it took 3 (three) visually good harnesses to make one electrically good harness when i rebuild mine ...
you should make sure *each* and *every* wire on that harness is still pliable and not hardened and/or cracked!

i had to cut the hard plastic cover on the harness back several inches only to find some of the injector wires had cracked *inside* the cover, which was not visible at all ...

like i said, it took three harnesses to make one good one. and the engine purred like a kitten afterwards ...
Andy

[quote name='Air_Cooled_Nut' date='Mar 24 2007, 03:15 PM' post='879105']
Black injection boots (wiring harness that connects to the injector) are for cylinders 1 & 3 while the grey goes on cylinders 2 & 4. Page 42 of the Haynes manual.
[/quote]

My wiring harness did not have injector boots (black or grey), although I purchased a new set...all black. I am not confused to which side, passenger vs. driver, but the two on the passenger side which could be interchanged, 3 & 4.
Numbers are impossible to read..

[quote name='SirAndy' date='Mar 24 2007, 04:10 PM' post='879123']
[quote name='brp914' post='879004' date='Mar 24 2007, 09:51 AM']
the wires are printed with numbers on them. you could reference the numbers to the schematic in the haynes manual. but there is the possibilty that when the wires were reattached that they were switched.

one thing to consider. your harness has already been hacked into, and i'm afraid there was a reason for the PO to do so.

Actually only one of the injector plugs were cut and reconnected, although Andy your right...you never know what lurks underneath the sheath

Andy
[/quote]

Engine now starts..or at least did...not fuel pump fuse keeps blowing...started a new thread...thanks all.

Unplug the connector from the ECU, and test for continuity with the FI connectors. Look at your wiring diagram (Haynes, Pelican Parts, or a PDF file) and see which pins on the ECU connect with which injectors.

--DD