I broke my passenger side ball joint and desperately need a source for a used part....

(502) four seven two - eight seven one five

I will pay $$ if someone can save my behind.....

Found one!

What device is required to remove these?

ball joint socket -

i got one.. could mail it out on monday.

but make do with a chisel if need be...

Make sure you get the right one... there is an early and a late.

And a chisle and hammer works in a pinch.

BJH

I hear its possible with chisel....

This special tool isnt available at NAPA is it? It looks like it is online, but i'm going to the store to see if they have it *fingers,toes and rabbits feet crossed*

they have ball joint seperators.. (pickle forks)

this is a porsche ONLY tool

well online they sell a spanner tool or something

ball joint spanner tool

http://www.napaautoparts.com/masterpages/N...+Spanner+Wrench

if its the right diameter.. it might work

Britt - I have a ball joint tool. You are welcome to use it. As you know, I have quite a selection of used parts. Contact me if you want to pick up some parts or borrow a tool. 812-340-0696

Pipe wrench works very well. Air hammer is easier than a hammer and chisel.

Thanks guys!

I am goign to order new ball joints from PP asap.

Anything else I need to look at?

a can of Aerokroil. search Kano labs. on assem really clean the receiver hole for the bolt in bottom of the strut tube, lightly oil it, and take care torqueing the bolt. DO NOT use the nut to draw the bolt in. seat the bolt with a appropriate drift.

k

the wedge pin is commonly overtorqued and subsequently broken....

get a haynes, i think it is like 19 lb ft

sure does...until the pw slips off and you mash your hand into the control arm and you want to throw the pw thru one of the garage windows. there's not much purchase for the pw on the lower nut. if you have no access to a comp and air chisel, start it with a cold chisel and hammer, and finish it up with the pw. give the nut muti sprays of what ever penetrant you use and a day or 2 to work. taping the perimeter of the nut helps to vibrate the penetrant into the threads and break the rust bond that has formed. have fun. when ordering, consider new capturing nuts 901 341 425 00, and new locking plates 901 341 426 00.

k

Britt, use a pipe wrench.
Line it up square and watch you knuckles...but a pipe wrench is all I ever use..its works fine.
Remove the cotter pin and spring shield on the bottom.
Place the car on one jack stand, three tires on the ground.
This is because you need to apply quite a bit of force to the pipe wrench to get the ball joint to move...

Its basically a nut on the bottom of the ball joint, so unscrew it.
The spring clip needs to be put back on the new ball joint to prevent it from loosening...
So it slow, clean the seating area for the ball joint.
Think about each step, and look at why each part it doing what it it doing.
then remove and replce lilke Haynes says.

Rich

well after 7 hours, its done

Got the lower socket part off, its F'd...

The ball part was a PITA, the wedge pin cam out (rusty) but the ball part was fused to the shock mount.

Had to take the shock out, which meant the tie rod thingies needed to be loosened out, Had to buy a pickle fork and seperate the tie rod part from the steering rack part, then the assembly came out and allowed a 8 LB sledge and a 14mm wrench to be used to ease the ball portion out of the shock mount.

Everything was put back together and it works, steers much better, as good as it was when I first got it, no more groaning when turning.

Next is the clutch.

Use a watchful eye on your tie rod ends...pickle forks have a tendency to screw up the rubber boot...leaving the packed grease oozing out over time (and letting dirt). Just give it a look now and then to make sure the rubber boot is intact.

I'm ordering the turbo tie rod kit too.

ahh...good! You'll love those tie rods...handling is alot (I mean alot) tighter then the rubber jointed ones. Be prepared though..when you are on bad roads...there will be no slop that the rubber ones take out..you'll do alot more steering! But responsiveness is great!

If one side was that bad, I'd be worried about the other side. People forget that ball joints and the such are WEAR ITEMS!!!!!

If you had one that bad and do any spirited driving, I would change teh other side.

I agree completely, but great news that you got it done in a day and your driving again...

Now you know how, do the other side...

Then, you have now removed both of the old ball joints and ties rods...
When you get the NEW ball joints, get new bolts also and give yourself enough time to paint that area of the a-arm so it wont rust on you again...

they do wear out frequently on our old cars...

Rich

I plan to replace both sides with new items

ball joints and tie rods..