QUOTE(So.Cal.914 @ Mar 29 2007, 10:13 PM)
Depends on how you drive, could be warn out. If it were me I would pull it
apart first and look at the FW, mic it and see if it has been cut to much and
then warn to the point of no return. What you will pay for a CP and PP you
can get a good used FW. Worth a look see before you lay out cash.
I just sent him a good used flywheel, pressure plate and disc, so he should have those on hand if need be. They had been sitting for a long time, but they looked to be in serviceable condition.
When you have it apart, check it out real well and take pics to post here. I'm sure you'll get some good free advice then.
I would venture to guess that if the old clutch was only 2 years old, there is some reason that it is slipping/prematurely worn.
I would also guess (without seeing any of it) that the clutch cable may have been too tight to begin with. If the throw-out bearing is partially collapsing the fingers all the time, it would stand to reason that the fingers/spring action would weaken quicker.
I don't like the way that the cable is set up. Pressure on the throw-out bearing is what holds the clutch pedal in the up position (in fact the spring pressure at the pedal cluster has to be overcome for this to happen)
When a new owner/mechanic reads about adjusting the freeplay of the clutch, it can be a bit ambiguous at best.
I have found that there is typically a break-over point in the clutch engagement (pushing the pedal down), where it becomes easier to press the pedal. It is sometimes slight, but it is always there. I adjust the cable so that I can reach that point just before the pedal is all the way down.
I also check that I can engage 1st and reverse without gear clash. If there is clash, I tighten the cable a tiny bit and tighten the double nut. I don't measure the pedal travel.
Usually, I can pull the pedal a bit to raise it up to the full up position. If you can't pull up on the clutch pedal, it is too tight.
Just some of my opinions.