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burton73
My car has a a set of braded stainless lines to its GT oil cooler and I do not know why the V8 or water cooled types do not use this as a place for there lines, or one on the left one right side. Anyway I want you guys to see this before I pull them to make them pretty before body works starts.

Bob
burton73
one more
Aaron Cox
you need grommets where they pass through the rocker supports smile.gif

i did the same idea... used the RS long instead of LS.

ever seen any rubbing evidence on a tight left turn?
the GT cars ran them thru the passenger cabin about 6" or so, and then ran them through a box section to the front trunk.
Eric_Shea
There's some of that Canary Yellow.

I agree with Ms. Cox on the rubbing. That looks like a clean install. The only thing I'd be worrying about is the rubbing on the tight left turn.

For about $500 clams you can have GT lines made up. Not a bad price for your restoration.

E.
Aaron Cox
danke frau shea
burton73
I see no evidence of any rubbing from left turns. Do you guys have rubbing on your under body if so please point out where it would be. I may put a cover over the line there. Grommets are an easy fix. Remember this car ran like this for years. I am not sure it did any track time. The tires now are 185/70 15 on 7” on BBS. Eric why would I need new GT lines? The holes are there and the holes in the metal factory GT oil cooler shroud are there so the easiest thing is to leave them where they are. Are you guys worried that a 225 on a 7” 16” will scrape these lines where there are. Can I fit an 8” on the front now and turn the wheel and see or will that not be the same and a loaded car on the ground?
That is all I have around my shop except a 6” 16 with rubber on it today.

Thanks for your help.

Bob
Eric_Shea
You can try the 8" on there. It would probably give you an indication where the problem may be. Also, Elephant makes a rack-stop that would prevent your tire from coming into contact with the lines.

The only reason I would recommend the factory lines is, they route better in that area. There is a draw back with those as well. They can heat up your cabin might quick.

I think I'd leave it as is and look into these:

http://www.elephantracing.com/suspension/t.../911tirerub.htm

On that page you can click on a picture (of a 911) that shows the problematic area. We can order those for you and ship them in a box with your calipers (free freight). wink.gif
burton73
Eric,

That is the deal. I need wheel bearings and bushings for my suspension as well from you.

Thanks,

Bob

If I wanted heat pouring into my car in So. Cal I would have water a cooled 914
stirthepot.gif biggrin.gif
Aaron Cox
QUOTE(burton73 @ Apr 2 2007, 03:14 PM) *

Eric,

That is the deal. I need wheel bearings and bushings for my suspension as well from you.

Thanks,

Bob

If I wanted heat pouring into my car in So. Cal I would have water a cooled 914
stirthepot.gif biggrin.gif


my lines are hidden by carpet and the passenger foam footboard smile.gif

no heat.... but you can hear the oil pumping through when its cold....
burton73
Aaron,

This is a joke, but it's the 2nd of April.

Bob
Aaron Cox
i know smile.gif

just clearing up oil line heat issues.
Eric_Shea
QUOTE
my lines are hidden by carpet and the passenger foam footboard

no heat.... but you can hear the oil pumping through when its cold....


I was talking about the factory lines weed whacker. :duh:

For a -4 I like the conversion you did. It makes more sense to run the -4 stuff on the right side and... that big-ole hunk of foam is perfect for keeping the temps down.
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