relocating fuel pump to front on my 73, can i grab the fuel pump hot wire from harness in front area? if so what color, where and would it be easier than runnig hot from rear location (up the tunnel, as its open anyway 'cause im doing fuel lines).

that all depends on what induction you're running ... enlighten us ...
Andy

It's a stock 73.

There is no fuel pump wire in the front for a 73. Best is to run the wire from the rear. It is a little tricky. The wire runs from the relay board to the large connector in the middle of the front engine shelf. It then loops back and goes to the fuel pump cable to the pump location under the Hell hole. You could probably get away with running only the supply wire and using a ground near the pump for the return. It also may be easier to run a completely new wire from the relay board to the front instead of pulling the original wire. Be sure to either cut off the original wire or tape it off at the old pump location.

You could tap onto any fuse above #6, and it would be switched. I would confirm this by hooking up a test light as well as checking the amperage of the fuse. Sorry it's early and I don't have my notes here. I have done this myself without any problems. I have also incorporated a switch and on one installation an inertia cutoff switch.

I pulled both the hot lead and ground lead out of the harness and ran them thru the center tunnel to the front for the fuel pump. Just a little work, but .......... This way I kept the fuel pump circuit intact from the relay board.

I pull the hot lead for the pump back to the point where it can be turned up the harness heading forward. Then I extend it, following the harness until I get under the tank. I add a ground wire that is hooked to the ground connection next to the fuse box.


Works just like the factory intended. And that is how the factory did it on the 75/76 cars.

sounds like it is time for the factory authorized fuel pump relocation kit!!!!!


Please do not hot wire the fuel injection fuel pump!!!

go to HD in the wiring department.
They have a two wire, bl/red wire that is covered in a gray sheath.
I just plug that into the existing circuit, and because of the sheath, you can slid it into the tunnel, grab it at the rear access panel inside the car, and keep pulling.

Simple, correct circuit, and a no brainer for me.

Rich

run both wires + and - fron the engine bay wire harness i.e. tap into what's there and run it forward. If you are running one it's easy enough to run the other.

the fuel pump relay is timmed to run for 2 seconds to prime the system and then stut off. if you do it any other way it will run continuous and will not be tied into the FI circut.
Keith

What color are the wires from the relay board? and which pins # are they from? I assume it is a red wire and a brn wire but where on the relay connector are they hooked onto? I have that grey sheath with the red and black wires but I need to know which wires to hook them to. Should I spice them into the wire or should I solder the pins to the wires and hook them up in the harness to the relay board?
Buck

on a stock FI car, you don't want to hotwire the fuel pump because it's controlled by the FI brain!

the best thing to do, IMHO, is to leave the original harness intact. don't cut anywhere.
simply run two wires from the old pump location to the new pump location.
plug the new wires into the existing fuel pump connectors at the harness in the stock location, simply extending the existing circuit.

that way, you keep the stock relay AND the brain still controls the pump ...
Andy

I agree w Andy. that is how I did mine

How do you plug the new wires into the fuel pump connector? Do you need some sort of connector? Do you just shove the wires in the connector and then electrical tape the crap out of it?
Buck

I think leaving the connector there is a way to invite a future failure. I would at least remove the connector and reuse it on the other end to hook up the fuel pump.

And a ground is a ground is a ground. It is an excersize in extra work to run the ground wire all the way to the front, when there is already a ground point a lot closer.

i cut the FP connector off, spliced the new wires to the old by soldering them and putting heat shrink over the splice.

I reattached the connector the same way in the new location.

worked gud for me

BTW.... if you relocate the pump you also need to relocate the filter. when I did mine I cut the filter holder off in the engine bay and re welded in the fuel tank bay, under the fuel tank .

worked great, I can get the filter out through the access hole under the car to change it.

Keith

three things:

- clay is correct about the ground. you can leave the ground wire and just hook up ground in the front.

- i agree it would be best to reuse the round plastic connector to plug into your pump. all you need to do is to bend the little pins to get the existing wires out of it.

- they are simple spade connectors, so by crimping a male end on a wire, you can plug into the stock female end and get a good connection without ANY cutting of stock wires.

Andy

Clay and Andy are right about the FI thing, the cars I've done this on are carb'd.

thats my plan along with running thru the tunnel
thanks all

i picked up 95 f150 fuel injection filter, has nice ends to clamp and should trap alot with lots of capacity too.

Oh shit .... it'll never run now.

will these parts now make my teener a " forsche" or a "pord"? kinda like a small block chevy in a toyota makes it a "toyolet"?

Yeah Mike, you sort of want the inertia thing, shut of the pump in the event of an abrupt stop and the key in the on position. If you made a kit with the little door in the trunk and all I bet people would buy it. How tough would it be to dupe the factor setup?

Let me go get that picture

Babydoll's PO relocated the fuel pump ('74). Used a square VW fuel filter that has 3/8" on one side and 5/16" on the other, since all three nipples on the pump are 5/16".

Not meaning to pick on you but since you brought it up:
It's a good thing you put in the inertia switch because this is a terrible solution. Most people would simply skip the inertia switch. When the FI brain senses the motor not running it turns off the fuel pump...like in an accident. Don't want the pump filling the scene with gas and a manual switch is useless when you're unconscience