It's time to replace the key/tumbler mechanism on the column before I can't start the car anymore. Pelican says that replacement key/tumbler parts are NLA. GPR has something that says it replaces the tumbler for only about $55 including 2 keys. That just seems too good to be true. Anyone got any experience with the GPR part? Any other recommendations or sources?

(Sorry no link for the GPR part - their web site isn't working tonight. It's under Steering Parts.)

If Dave says he's got it, he's got it. Call him & ask.

Ernie,

Make sure its not just the electrical part that is not making contact any more. Those commonly crack, etc.

key and tumbler can be easily restored by Tony in philadelphia or one can purchase the factory original (certainly in short supply but available) or the aftermarket that Dave at GPR sells (we do too) that actually is a 944 ign key and tumbler so you will have dis similar keys for your car.
Like was previously stated if the ignition will not engage the starter, probably the plastic ignition switch has cracked. I would start there, however beware that some of the aftermarket ignition switches have too much slop in them, and will not engage the starter unless operated with a screwdriver from under the dash (meaning not engaged to the key/tumbler assembly)

Dr.. I've experienced the problem with a new electrical switch.. I could start it with a screwdriver, but not with the ignition portion attached. I even ground the tabs down a bit on the tumbler/switch to allow it to turn a bit further... to no avail. Hence I put in a push button start as I needed the car. Haven't gone back to try to fix it yet.

Any idea 'which' electrical part would be reliable? Seems that there are 2 manufacturers.

My electrical portion has already been replaced. This is a physical problem with a key that has finally worn down to almost nothing. I've been planning for some time to replace the whole assembly with one that has a new key and then rekey the car to match that new key (The cylinder assembly has other problems - like not engaging the column lock and being able to remove the key when the car is running.)

Thanks for the info. Dissimilar keys is definitely something I want to avoid.

P.S. for the Doctor - I looked at your web site, but couldn't find any parts like this. I also could not find a search function. Hitting the "next section" button (or whatever it's labeled) over and over to scan through the catalog just doesn't cut it. Based on what I saw last night, I won't bother with the AA web site again when I need to look for a part.

Ernie, If all else fails, let me know. I've got some assemblys and a bunch of decent keys.

I had the same problem:Tumbler Discussion

I bought a used lock assembly off a car being parted from the classifieds. Put the new electrical switch on. Pulled out the actual tumbler and placed the tumbler out of the car into the new switch.

Works great now and uses original keys.

Never did figure out why the other wouldn't start the car.

Ernie, you can get the keycode recut by a good lock smith to the original factory size by having him look at the high and low cuts and then program into his key machine. The heights go from one to four. that way he is cutting a new key to the factory heights rather than copying an old worn out key. Works great may make your tumbler work fine again and avoid a bunch of different key codes!

Ernie, you can get the keycode recut by a good lock smith to the original factory size by having him look at the high and low cuts and then program into his key machine. The heights go from one to four. that way he is cutting a new key to the factory heights rather than copying an old worn out key. Works great may make your tumbler work fine again and avoid a bunch of different key codes!
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Good idea!

There was a thread or two late last year that went into detail about the tumbler assembly getting worn and not engaging the electrical switch properly. I fixed mine by 'shimming' the tang to electrical switch and the tumbler to switch housing with thin mylar 'duct tape'.