I plan to do the below soon:

*clutch change
*Ball Joint/Tie Rod End Replacement
*New boots for the steering rack

Involving clutch, what parts do I need to get?

*bushings, T/O bearing, plastic cup bushings, etc
*Needle Bearing (or whatever its technially called)
*Flywheel Bolts
*Felt something-or-other
*Metal Crush Washer

Tie rods, whats involved there?

*Rubber bushing
*Bolts, washers???

I'm doing one whole order from PP--unless other vendors are cheaper, easier.

Quality is the goal here---not cost.

The clutch disk is in between the flywheel and the pressure plate - if you just want a new clutch disc (get the 6 spring one from PP) you don't need to remove the flywheel. I just did this for my side-shift conversion....one cool trick is that the forward shift rod (late style) is the perfect diameter to use as a clutch disk centering rod, ensuring that it is centered before pressure plate bolts are torqued. PP sells a "tool" for this if you want to add to your collection. I'm doing tie rods soon and will likely buy a pickle fork tool for the removal. Good luck

rear main, flywheel o ring, shims to check and adjust end play, flywheel needle bearing, felt washer, flywheel crush plate, flywheel bolts (in case the old ones are shaved), clutch disc (six spring is a vw clutch and very inexpensive), pressure plate, throw out bearing, throw out bearing clips, ball stud cup, maybe the ballstud clip, cv joint gaskets, cv joint bolts (one or several always strip), front transmission seal, muffler gaskets. Don't need to remove the engine just the transmission watch the ground strap! May want to inspect the bushings as you will have the shift rod out, and repack the cv axles

Balljoints straight forward tie rods, the better turbo tie rod kit is cheaper if you are replacing both the inner and outer ends, but is firmer so may make the steering more sensitive

George beat me to it.

You said quality VS $$$$s...

At least check out all of the above while ya go through the clutch install.

Also check out the surface of the FLYWHEEL and PP. If it's heavily checked or glazed or Blue from heat. At least Yank off the FW and get it turned.

If ya have no money... You can get a 90 degree pneumatic angle grinder and put a 120 -150 grit disk on it and hit the PP and FW to knock the glaze off. It's better than doing nothing to the friction surfaces...... I have done this many times to help break in a disc. Everybody else says I'm nuts to do this. I will tell you that it works if thats all ya got.

Clean the PP and FW with brake clean before assembly.

Clayton

I just did the same thing on my clutch disk "do-over" Not planning on keeping it in there long. Just through Houston National tour.

Clutch grabs nice and smooth and holds firm. no sweat. I did take a straight edge to the Pressure plate to make sure it was flat. it wasn't so I fixed it.

Drove several 914's with stock tie rods. SUCKS!!!!!!!! I can tell is 2 seconds if you have Turbo rods or not. It does make a difference.
Pickle fork is absolutely gauranteed to screw up some shit.
Just whack it with a hammer and the tie rod will pop right out. or get the right tool.

My tie rods were frozen to the places where they screw in.

The ball part from the ball joint was just absolutely frozen, It took 30 minutes with a 8LB sledge and the whole damn thing off of teh car to get the ball out of the shock.

Pickle fork only in emergencies

The pickle fork is part of the reason i have to re-do everything.

aerokroil or pbblaster. borrow a compressor, an air line, and a pneumatic chisel.

k

It tore up all of the rubber boots but it did seperate everything so it can be replaced