My project car jack receiver is beginning to rust out at the bottom. The Longs look fine from the outside but I have good reason to believe the insides have some rust. The jack receiver looks good until I started poking around the drain hole at the bottom. I plan on cutting out the bottom triangle of it for an inspection. I can replace it but I think it is a bit of a pain. I do not use this receiver. I don't think I even have one of the jacks. Why not delete it all together. Weld some 16 gage plate over the opening. I would think this would add some strength to the long. Anyone doing this?

I'm putting the Brad Mayeur long kit on, and deleting the jack receiver.

Been done, look at Lou W 's car. I will be doing the same.

I deleted mine, I figured I'd go with a small scissor jack or something other than the stock jack.

I even decided to delete the jack mount in the trunk, I'll probably move the jack upfront with the spare tire.

Any new pic's of the car Lou? By the way 'How are you doing?'

Sorry for the Hijack.

I think that looks much cleaner. After I get a better look at my receiver, I will decide. Thanks for the pics.

Hey Mark, Here's a picture before I shot the final coat on the suspension, it shows the plate that I made to cover up the Jack Post Receiver area.

Hey Paul, Nothing new on the progress at this point. I'm doing fine, thanks for asking.

Thanks Lou.

That is bigger than I was going to do but that is a lot better. Beefs up the section even better. What gage did you use. Were you able to weld along the top or did you weld through holes?

my car has the jack point delete...i dont think you really need it, you can jack it from the engine mounts and there are a few spots at the front which are strong enough too.

I did mine very simliar to this picture.

I went two bumps forward...the bumps in the long.
I padded out the indented part so I could put on one piece flat.
I also wrapped it underneath.

I had to cut and weld the piece off the car to make it all the correct shape, but in the end it goes all the way to the suspension console, and up about a foot past the original jack hole.
I removed all the rust, patched that in, then layed on the extra piece.

Welding at the top, while I think it should be done, I did not.. I could not get up in there to my satisfaction.
I ended up drilling holes every 1 inch square.
I spot welded the whole thing on every 1 inch.
You can reach up and line up a spot weld all the way to the top, but running a continuous weld is really hard...you need to be able to see/move all at once...

If you test it with the welder off, you will see what I mean...you can reach it, but try to move the tip...not so easy.

So, line up for the spot weld, hold still and press the button...then turn it off, move...go to the next hole.

I figure the car was made with spot welds every 3/4 to 1 inch, and its held up for 30 plus years.

Once I did this, I am now solid as a rock, and I can now pick up the front tire on an autocross course...

Rich

Use seam sealer if you can't seal it off w/welding. Keeps the moisture from collecting between the metal plates

I'm not sure of the gauge of the metal, it was the same gauge used on the GT stiffening kit. No, I could not get into the area above to weld, but I did use seam sealer on that area.

The reason that it was larger than needed, was because I installed the GT kit and I replaced one of the kits stiffener to eliminate the jack post reciever.