i want to be able to crank the motor while i'm near the engine bay. if i run a wire from a push button switch to the single small gauge wire on the starter, will it work? where does the second wire from the switch go? to a ground?

if you put 12V on that yellow wire going to the starter it WILL crank

I did this for several months while I diagnosed some wiring issues--found the issue when my clutch, speedo and brake cables got used as the ground for my starter!

with carbs.
you need power to the coil. 12 jumper lead
power to the fuel pump jumper lead

push button from yellow lead on the starter to power on the battery.
the button needs to be rated for 50 amps or it will melt.

Dont crank to long or the wire will melt.

Rich

so what's the easiest way to rig that?

also, what happened, was your ground strap from the tranny missing?

doesn't the big wire from the battery to the starter carry the big amps?

Electricity 101:

A circuit only draws the current required by the circuit. In this case, the solenoid (if in proper working order) won't draw much current.

I=E/R

(current{AMPS} = volts/resistance{OHMS}) (Ugy's Electrical References)

my ignition and fuel pump are already on there own circuit with breakers. so can i just run the swith leads between the 2 wire on the starter then?

doing what I told you is fine

Like I said I did that for weeks until I realized that without the ground strap connected. the ground uses any path it can to travel.

And I also realized that clutch, accelerator and brake cables do NOT make good ground wires.

Most FLAPS will carry remote starter buttons, then you just hook the lg alligator

clip to the lg. red cable at the starter and the other to the yellow wire also at

the starter/solenoid.

If you don't want the engine to start, you don't have to power up the coil and fuel pump (and EFI if you have that). Just get a switch that hooks up to the fat black wirethat hooks onto the starter solenoid and the flag terminals on the starter solenoid. Rig it so that those get connected together when you press the button.

And yeah, make sure the switch can handle 50 amps or so...

--DD

The big fat wire on the starter goes directly to the battery.
For me, I find it very hard to hook up two alligator clips one the starter and sensure that they never ever touch each other...
Its just to close, and when the engine starts, its vibrating so much that they could (and have) touched...which melts all sorts of stuff down there, including the solenoid...

So, I clip one to the little yellow spade terminal, and run the other end directly to the battery...I find it safer and less to worry about while I have my head in the engine bay....
And, if there is a problem, like the switch melts into the on position, and the starter stays engaged (BTDT) I can grab the wire off the battery pretty quick.

I have used this rig for 25 years..lots of used motors from junk yard cars...its the simplest way to test to see if the motor turns, and start..

So, over the years, I have melted a few switches by cranking to long, even 50 amp ones can only take so much...and wires, and welded aligator clips together.

I am just offering my experience...and the mistakes I have learned from..but hook it up any way you like.
I never ever ever start a car with my head underneath the car.
I have started a few american cars with just a screw driver jumping those two terminals...but on these cars, you gotta have your arm up under the car, over the drive axle...not a place I want to get out of in a hurry...

Rich

A while back my 87 Audi 4000 ignition switch dumped on me and I couldn't start the car. So until I got a new switch, I put 2 small switches together with some attachment wires, one switch is a toggle and one a push button. Toggle for power and button for the starter.

I kept the little switch module and used it again last year to test an extra 1.8L engine I picked up.

The switch ratings are not that high (5-10A) and worked out good. Turned the motor over time after time w/o issue. The soleniod on the starter is not that heavy a draw to fry the switches. This module would suite remote testing real nice.

Here's a pic of the module attached to my engine.

Spoke

What you need is a normally open, momentary closed switch (Radio Shack), so when you stop pushing, it stops cranking. The solinoid won't pull more current than it needs.

Also 12 gage wire, piggyback spade lug, large hole lug and a place to mount it. Hook up just like a remote starter.

If you want it to start, turn on the ignition, if not, don't turn it on.

Don't over complicate it.

I installed a permanant one, it makes tune ups so much easier.

Good Luck, Don