I need to pick up a few tools to be able to time my cams on my 6cyl. engine.

The z-block seems to be easy to find but I am having a bit of trouble finding a dial gauge. I am guessing it measures cam lift but in metric but what does it measure mm?

Is there a preferred type that will function with the z-block?

in addition to the gauge you need an extension for it, esp if you're using E or S cams. dial gauges are all over the place. even sears has 'em for cheap, but no extension. If you're timing cams now, maybe it's too late, but you could get the arp stretch gauge to kill 2 birds w/ one stone. Perf Prod's sells the whole shebang as a kit.

Most dial indicators you are going to find will be in inches. You can convert the numbers. No problem. BUT! Some dial indicators will not fit in the Z-block (my Harbor Freight unit didn't).

I have a Z-block if you'd like to borrow it for awhile. I won't be building anymore six motors for awhile.

I bought a harbor freight dial indicator and a harbor freight magnetic clamp for the indicator, the clamp arm's threads where it screws onto the base are 8mm, so I screwed the adjustable arm onto one of the valve cover studs. I couldn't buy or borrow a Z-block that weekend, so I bought the clamp for $12.00 instead.

Thanks guys for the info and thanks Mark for the offer!

I have on order a z-block and other things but I couldn't find a dial guage in mm, I may have to just get a inches one and convert it, I'll wait though to make sure it fits the Z-block.

Let us know which dial indicator works.. I am currently in the same boat.

Autozone has one for $30, but I haven't got over there yet to check it out.

edit: The z-block on pelican says that it comes with the extension pin.

BTW, what do you have for chain tensioners?

I have bought special tools from Pelican and from Ebay. Chain tensioners are Carrera set oil fed at $515. As the low price OEM German . I have the old castings from early 911 cases for chains and tensioners and the word is I need to machine those to fit the modern tensioners to fit in. I know I need to look at something when I get there. I have a 2.5 Engine with aluminum cases. What are you rebuilding?

Bob

I will be installing rebuilt tensioners on my 3.0 soon but I will be doing a complete rebuild of my other 3.0 down the road.

It sucks that they both use different cam tools!

Burton73, do you just need spacers or new boxes?

I think someone posted that hydro tensioners for just over 400 dollars but I can't remember who (you may want to do a search).

That was EBSracing.com for $490. Did you rebuild stock 901 chain tensioners? Did you do it yourself? I have a soft left side tensioner and I am not sure where I should go from here but $500 it way to much...

Oil fed are $515. That is the lowest price I can or could find. Every one wanted $700. Or more for a full set. Question is just get boxes from a later car or do this light machine work to what I have. Not 100% clear. They say spacers but there is also some one saying that my old chain cases are not right. The shop next door that is putting on my flairs and doing my paint just bought a SC that has the tensioners go out. I sold them my set and got another set from the same people. This SC 82 was making a chain noise and they got it for no money. Put in the tensioners and new chain ramps and it is good to sell. Now.

Well worth the money. If you lose the tensioners (and they all go out at one point,) you can blow your engine if you do not hear it time. It has happened to more that one person. In the old day (25 years ago) before they where around I went for mechanical tensioners because I was afraid they might go out and kill my engine but today we have no excuses. I would hate to blow an engine at the costs

Bob

I asked Cap'n Krusty if he would rebuild mine.

I also picked up as set of carrera tensioners before this and I am not 100% keen about using them over the last spring tension version. I may use them on my other rebuild or maybe this one, still not sure.

I got them from GPR and he gave me what I thought was a good deal (but I don't remeber the cost)

The only thing I worry about with doing this is the cam timing.

I have read and re-read the procedures for the cam timing from multiple sources/books and this is really the part where people run into the most trouble.

With the engines being interference engines a mistake could really become costly.

You can take you engine to a good shop and let them do the cam timing for you and just pay them for that hour of labor if you are worried. You are right. If you screw that up you are in big trouble. It is always a big concern to me as well and that is what I did on two 911 engines before. On this one I think I will do it my self as I have bought all the tools.
Back then there was not all the on line help. If you take is real slow and take pictures and ask questions you should be OK, but for $100. a shop should time it for you on the back of a pick up truck.

As far as the latest spring tensioners, the factory moved to the oil fed type and I have that on my 86 Carrera cab. Almost 70,000 miles and no problems. Do you have a blow off safety on your CIS box?

Bob

I have still heard of failures with the hydro type so neither of them are foolproof, I just don't know which one I would rather use. It seems even with the old style guards you are at risk so there is no clear better choice in my mind (but what the hell do I know ).

I didn't think of trucking it to a shop, I think I will use that as a bailout plan if i feel i can't do it myself. I really would like to be able to do it myself, I will be needing to do it again fairly soon.

I do have the pop-off valve in my airbox

I just bought some of the newer 930 style chain tensioners, according to wayne's book he says they are the next best thing to the oil tensioners.

I think that there is to much going on with the oil ones, with something so important it should be simple, like an oil pump design (two gears).