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woobn8r
What is your experience with rear wheel bearings?

Aftermarket seem to be about 1/2 the price of OE. There are alot of quality manufacturers (Timken, FAG, NTN etc)...does anyone know who makes rwb for aftermarket 914 applications. (cheap offshore?)

Any performance or longevity with aftermarket bearings...any failures? Are these application specific...4 banger vs. 6 or 8...race vs. street...?

Are the aftermarket products worth the savings?

I am currently rebuilding rear arms and using 911SC hubs/setup...I will have a 3.2l pushing these...It's easy to pay the $$$ for OE but, if you do that for everything you could buy a new Boxter S cheaper than saving a 914.

So what do you think...?
davep
As far as I know there are only a few that make the correct bearing, and there is only one quality level. Some years ago I checked with a local bearing supplier, and there were very few options. I was looking for higher grade bearings since I had just learned that many common bearings could be found in several grades. No Luck. For critical parts I never want to scrimp.
woobn8r
Hi Dave,

I had gone to Toronto Belt & Bearing...they said it was a dealer part only. However, many porsche parts supply points offer both OE and aftermarket...

With one quality level, the $110 bearing would be the same as the $60 aftermarket one...I dont want to scrimp...but it rubs me wrong to pay double...

Eric_Shea
Even at $60 you're paying almost double wink.gif
John
Eric,

Do you sell them? Do you take PayPal?

I need a pair.

Please PM me with pricing.
736conver
QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Apr 16 2007, 12:46 PM) *

Even at $60 you're paying almost double wink.gif


Your paying more then double. I can get FAG rear bearings for $25 a piece if anyone is interested.
Joe Ricard
I remember in a post LONG AGO on a site far far away someone mentioned that the Audi 5000 bearing would fit and was a bit more robust.

But it was on the internet and it was a long time ago.
Cap'n Krusty
QUOTE(Joe Ricard @ Apr 16 2007, 12:11 PM) *

I remember in a post LONG AGO on a site far far away someone mentioned that the Audi 5000 bearing would fit and was a bit more robust.

But it was on the internet and it was a long time ago.


Not better, not stronger, just the SAME part. Also fits some Saabs and some BMWs. Before we get carried away with this, SCs use a different rear wheel bearing. 80mm OD, 42mm ID. Quite a bit larger than the stock 914 unit. I sure wouldn't want to get all the purchasing, planning, and prep done, only to find out the pieces won't fit! The Cap'n
woobn8r
FAG at $25 a piece sounds good to me....here's a sample of 5 off the net

S.

AA parts search
G99905303500 REAR WHEEL BEARING; 914 1970-76, 912 1969, 911
1969-73 Image Position: 10
Genuine $100.73
R99905303500 REAR WHEEL BEARING; 914 1970-76, 912 1969, 911 1969-73
New $49.50

Performance products Rear
Part Number: 904853 Our Price: $36.95
Rear Wheel Bearing, 911/914 Ref: 999.053.035.00
Fits:914 70-76
Reference/Interchange Numbers:
99905303500
999.053.035.00
Price: $64.95

Zims
K8000-40064 Wheel Bearing Ruville IN STOCK $94.74 $34.

Pelican
Rear Wheel Bearing, 2 Per Car, 914 1.7/1.8/2.0 (1970-76), 914-6 (1970-71), Each Brand: SKF $79.75

PAP
Item Number : 999 053 035 00
Unit Price: $38.29
Compare At: $89.80


Downunderman
Avoid SNR nade in France. They have quality issues - wont lock up properly. SKF are good.
URY914
I recently bought a pair of FAGs. laugh.gif Let the jokes begin.


I figured the first pair lasted over 30 years, anything will work for the second set.
Eric_Shea
I've got FAG's for $35.95 in stock. Sounds like Brian's got the best source at $25.00
914Sixer
The bearing number shows it to have many universal applications for alot of European cars. Bearings are made in Spain, Mexico,Germany and some in France.
andys
Here's the entire application table for the 911 breaing:

Part No: 513180

Make Model Position Year App Location
BMW - 5 Series 524td, 525i, 525Xi, 528e, 528i, 530i, 530Xi, 533i, 535i, 535is, 540i, 545i, 550i, M5, REAR WHEEL 1995-1989 525i
BMW - 5 Series 524td, 525i, 525Xi, 528e, 528i, 530i, 530Xi, 533i, 535i, 535is, 540i, 545i, 550i, M5, REAR WHEEL 1995-1982 (Exc. 525i)
BMW - 6 Series 630csi, 633csi, 635csi, 645Ci, 650i, L6, M6 REAR WHEEL 1989-1983
BMW - 7 Series 733i, 735i, 735il, 740i, 740il, 745i, 745iL, 750i, 750il, 750Li, 760i, 760Li, L7 REAR WHEEL 1994-1982
PORSCHE REAR WHEEL 1976-1976 912E
PORSCHE REAR WHEEL 2005-2001 Boxster S
PORSCHE REAR WHEEL 2005-1997 911 Ser.
PORSCHE REAR WHEEL 2001-1990 911 (Turbo)
PORSCHE REAR WHEEL 1994-1991 968
PORSCHE REAR WHEEL 1993-1985 911 C2, C4 (Exc. Turbo)
PORSCHE REAR WHEEL 1991-1989 944 Ser.
PORSCHE REAR WHEEL 1988-1987 924S
PORSCHE REAR WHEEL 1984-1978 911 Carrera, SC
VOLKSWAGEN VW TYPE II : Bus, EuroVan, Transporter, Van, Vanagon, Camper FRONT WHEEL 1991-1986 Vanagon Synchro

The 914 rear wheel bearing application table is quite a bit more diverse (interesting).
Andys
Chris Pincetich
I recently rode on ceramic bearings - insanely fast. Standard sealed wheel would spin for 10-20 seconds, the german ceramic for almost a minute. They retail for $120 for a set, normal german sealed are $30.

Those were for a skateboard - who makes 'em for my 914???
beerchug.gif
ThinAir
QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Apr 16 2007, 06:30 PM) *

I've got FAG's for $35.95 in stock. Sounds like Brian's got the best source at $25.00

Hey Eric - Do you install them also? I've got one rear bearing that's going and it would be worth the drive from Flagstaff to Salt Lake to get it done. (I'm sure it would make it that far)
Eric_Shea
Come on up Ernie... should we do a 5-lug while you're at it? biggrin.gif
bigkensteele
QUOTE(736conver @ Apr 16 2007, 10:52 AM) *

QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Apr 16 2007, 12:46 PM) *

Even at $60 you're paying almost double wink.gif


Your paying more then double. I can get FAG rear bearings for $25 a piece if anyone is interested.


Wish I had seen this post earlier. I just bought a pair (FAGs) on ebay for $59 shipped. They are labeled as a Saab 900 part, which is fine with me as long as they fit.

I can't find Eric's old thread on installation, so I have a couple of questions. Should they be lubed in any way or frozen to ease the insallation? Also, they look almost exactly symetrical except for a slight taper on one outer edge. Am I correct in assuming that is the inside?

Thanks,
Ken
John
QUOTE(DownUnderMan @ Apr 16 2007, 12:30 PM) *

Avoid SNR nade in France. They have quality issues - wont lock up properly. SKF are good.



I can vouch for this.

I had one just today that was found to be JUNK. Unfortunately, I have another one new in the box. I have one on order from my FLAPS that will be here in 2 hours. I'm tempted to get it and check the manufacturer and use it instead of the SNR that I have. The SNR has only been installed less than 1 year (track only) and has only seen 5 or 6 events. The other side (unknown brand) has been in there for a couple seasons and still is nice and tight. (I probably just jinxed it).

Anyone have ideas who provides the BEST rear wheel bearing for our application?

FAG?
Cap'n Krusty
QUOTE(John @ Sep 29 2007, 10:14 AM) *

QUOTE(DownUnderMan @ Apr 16 2007, 12:30 PM) *

Avoid SNR nade in France. They have quality issues - wont lock up properly. SKF are good.



I can vouch for this.

I had one just today that was found to be JUNK. Unfortunately, I have another one new in the box. I have one on order from my FLAPS that will be here in 2 hours. I'm tempted to get it and check the manufacturer and use it instead of the SNR that I have. The SNR has only been installed less than 1 year (track only) and has only seen 5 or 6 events. The other side (unknown brand) has been in there for a couple seasons and still is nice and tight. (I probably just jinxed it).

Anyone have ideas who provides the BEST rear wheel bearing for our application?

FAG?


Early rear wheel bearing failure can virtually always be traced to faulty installation techniques. The procedures are specific and critical. ANY impact on the races can, and will, cause brinnelling of the races, and failure inevitably follows within a short time. The bearing has to be pressed into the housing, and the hub has to be pressed into the bearing, and you MUST support the inner races while it's being installed. You tap on that hub to get it started, the bearing's a goner. Even whacking on the stub axle to seat it can cause a problem ....... The Cap'n
Downunderman
When I replaced both rear wheel bearings with new ones (the SMR brand) my porsche mechanic fitted them. Drove it home and discovered about 3mm play at the tyre. Checked everything in the suspension and couldn't find anything wrong. Went back to the mechanics and took the bearing out, measured cleaned and checked everything and put it back in. It still had play, so after about 3 hours of fuching about with this we concluded that it was the bearing.

Replaced the bearing with SKF, and problem fixed. So then we replaced the other side. It took about a day to sort this out. I still have the bearing and its brand new in the box.
John
QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Sep 29 2007, 09:47 AM) *

QUOTE(John @ Sep 29 2007, 10:14 AM) *

QUOTE(DownUnderMan @ Apr 16 2007, 12:30 PM) *

Avoid SNR nade in France. They have quality issues - wont lock up properly. SKF are good.



I can vouch for this.

I had one just today that was found to be JUNK. Unfortunately, I have another one new in the box. I have one on order from my FLAPS that will be here in 2 hours. I'm tempted to get it and check the manufacturer and use it instead of the SNR that I have. The SNR has only been installed less than 1 year (track only) and has only seen 5 or 6 events. The other side (unknown brand) has been in there for a couple seasons and still is nice and tight. (I probably just jinxed it).

Anyone have ideas who provides the BEST rear wheel bearing for our application?

FAG?


Early rear wheel bearing failure can virtually always be traced to faulty installation techniques. The procedures are specific and critical. ANY impact on the races can, and will, cause brinnelling of the races, and failure inevitably follows within a short time. The bearing has to be pressed into the housing, and the hub has to be pressed into the bearing, and you MUST support the inner races while it's being installed. You tap on that hub to get it started, the bearing's a goner. Even whacking on the stub axle to seat it can cause a problem ....... The Cap'n



Gee, thanks for that wonderful accusation, but alas, that is/was not the problem.

Cap'n Krusty
QUOTE(John @ Sep 29 2007, 04:06 PM) *

QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Sep 29 2007, 09:47 AM) *

QUOTE(John @ Sep 29 2007, 10:14 AM) *

QUOTE(DownUnderMan @ Apr 16 2007, 12:30 PM) *

Avoid SNR nade in France. They have quality issues - wont lock up properly. SKF are good.



I can vouch for this.

I had one just today that was found to be JUNK. Unfortunately, I have another one new in the box. I have one on order from my FLAPS that will be here in 2 hours. I'm tempted to get it and check the manufacturer and use it instead of the SNR that I have. The SNR has only been installed less than 1 year (track only) and has only seen 5 or 6 events. The other side (unknown brand) has been in there for a couple seasons and still is nice and tight. (I probably just jinxed it).

Anyone have ideas who provides the BEST rear wheel bearing for our application?

FAG?


Early rear wheel bearing failure can virtually always be traced to faulty installation techniques. The procedures are specific and critical. ANY impact on the races can, and will, cause brinnelling of the races, and failure inevitably follows within a short time. The bearing has to be pressed into the housing, and the hub has to be pressed into the bearing, and you MUST support the inner races while it's being installed. You tap on that hub to get it started, the bearing's a goner. Even whacking on the stub axle to seat it can cause a problem ....... The Cap'n



Gee, thanks for that wonderful accusation, but alas, that is/was not the problem.


Oh? Not really an accusation, rather a statement of fact based on close to 35 years experience working on 911s, 914s and other cars with similar wheel bearings. Care to elaborate? Axle nut loose? Hub worn? Not many other reasons for early failure. The Cap'n
John
QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Sep 29 2007, 03:45 PM) *

QUOTE(John @ Sep 29 2007, 04:06 PM) *

QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Sep 29 2007, 09:47 AM) *

QUOTE(John @ Sep 29 2007, 10:14 AM) *

QUOTE(DownUnderMan @ Apr 16 2007, 12:30 PM) *

Avoid SNR nade in France. They have quality issues - wont lock up properly. SKF are good.



I can vouch for this.

I had one just today that was found to be JUNK. Unfortunately, I have another one new in the box. I have one on order from my FLAPS that will be here in 2 hours. I'm tempted to get it and check the manufacturer and use it instead of the SNR that I have. The SNR has only been installed less than 1 year (track only) and has only seen 5 or 6 events. The other side (unknown brand) has been in there for a couple seasons and still is nice and tight. (I probably just jinxed it).

Anyone have ideas who provides the BEST rear wheel bearing for our application?

FAG?


Early rear wheel bearing failure can virtually always be traced to faulty installation techniques. The procedures are specific and critical. ANY impact on the races can, and will, cause brinnelling of the races, and failure inevitably follows within a short time. The bearing has to be pressed into the housing, and the hub has to be pressed into the bearing, and you MUST support the inner races while it's being installed. You tap on that hub to get it started, the bearing's a goner. Even whacking on the stub axle to seat it can cause a problem ....... The Cap'n



Gee, thanks for that wonderful accusation, but alas, that is/was not the problem.


Oh? Not really an accusation, rather a statement of fact based on close to 35 years experience working on 911s, 914s and other cars with similar wheel bearings. Care to elaborate? Axle nut loose? Hub worn? Not many other reasons for early failure. The Cap'n


No, I won't get in a pissing match with Krusty the Clown. No, No, and there are a multitude of reasons for potential early failure.
Cap'n Krusty



Gee, thanks for that wonderful accusation, but alas, that is/was not the problem.
[/quote]

Oh? Not really an accusation, rather a statement of fact based on close to 35 years experience working on 911s, 914s and other cars with similar wheel bearings. Care to elaborate? Axle nut loose? Hub worn? Not many other reasons for early failure. The Cap'n
[/quote]

No, I won't get in a pissing match with Krusty the Clown. No, No, and there are a multitude of reasons for potential early failure.
[/quote]

Off the top of my head, other than immersion, I think I've listed them all. The Cap'n
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