I've heard the 2.7L is the least desireable of the air cooled 6s. What do you guys have to say?

I'm toying with the idea of looking at a car with a 2.7L 6banger. So far all I know is that the motor has high compression JE P&Cs, eletromotive crankfire, G40 cams, race springs and retainers. Run on street gas.

Any comments? Good bad? Do these motors need to be rebuilt often? What are the major concerns? Any years to avoid? Factory design issues that could be solved during a rebuild? What kind of power can I expect out of it? (stock vs. modified)

I need a general list of questions to ask...

Thanks

I can only give you real life experience.

The 2.7 is a very nice motor once the problem areas are fixed (Magnesium case).

If it hasn't been done you will need to install case savers to keep the head studs from pulling out and upgrade to the oil fed cam chain tensioners.

The one I got with my car was crap. It had the update for the tensioners but needed the case savers and a complete tear-down befoe it was a performer.

After an additional 6k it is a very nice motor...

The 2.7 in it's original state is a POS. They can be purchased relatively cheaply because it does take a bit of money and knowledge to make it "right" but it is a great starting point IMHO. Studs need to be replaced alond with timecerting the case, Throw the cams in the garbage or send them out to be re-ground, toss the pistons in the can (no other option there), toss the thermal reactors as far as you possibly can, then run them over...bury them....exhume them....and finally stuff a 1/2 pound of C4 in them. Not as good as a 3.0 though

I agree with all of the above.

Once you get the weak points worked out, it is a really nice motor...

I can't add a whole lot more than what they've already said... a front oil cooler because these engines can't sustain the same heat as the 3.0 and up engines can. But if you get your hands on a cheap engine run it, just don't beat it. 6's rock, pure and simple.

I agree with what's said above, I actually have a 2.7L in mine. It's runs really good and powerful, but who's know for how long (not sure if it has case savers). I wouldn't pay to much for the car unless the case has had case savers. The one good thing is that once you have a six its easy to replace it with another six.

Another thing you could do (if the owner would let you) is take the valve covers off and check for head studs that aren't at 22 ft/lbs of torque. If there are only a few that aren't snug you should be able to torq them down and the motor should run fine (just don't heat it up).

I've read about alot of guys getting over 130k miles on original 2.7's , if you take care of them.

But then again if it has high compression pistons it should have the case savers already installed and the car should be fine, but still make sure that it runs cool.

Also make sure that it has the turbo style fitting for the oil line that comes out of the back of the case, over the cam housings. This will give you more oil pressure.

Not to be different but I have to disagree first let's remember that the 3.0 also breaks studs also most of the problem and the reputation came from out west where the cars would stand in trafic with the A/C on of course they would over heat.

And the chain tensioner is also hyped up marketing look they can fail but any part on any car can fail think about it do they really fail that often hell the hydo. chain tens. can fail

True, but breaking a stud does not require a tear down (usually). I don't have the oil tensioners either, I got some of the 930 tensioners. You can't put fail safe collars on the oil ones ( you can modify them so they don't go down all the way).

The 2.7 equation: Thermal reactor+ smog equipment+5 blade fan+ more hp= hotter motor w/mag case = early death.