First of all, is it possible without going crazy on the motor and spending huge $$$? I've been searching the board here and can't find the answers to the questions in my head. If I've missed something please post a link.

What I'd like to do is bump up my hp a little, 5-10 would be acceptable. Just to get close to what a 2.0 can deliver and still retain the original L-jet FI. I think the 1.8's got cheated when a 1.7 has better numbers.

I need heat up here so headers are out. Not looking to spend too much dough. I'm not interested in carbs or a full-on Raby kit either. I have a 911 for when I need to feel big torque.

Would a different cam help? Maybe different P&C's with some head work, or an increase in c/r?

Open to suggestions. Thanks.

what year is it?

Sorry, it's a '74. Build date 2/74. ~50K on the clock.

a different cam could require case machining.

see the link to the nando build in my signature.

5-10 hp is nothing - just push harder on the gas peddle would be my suggestion - or lose some weight : )

does your car run good - no smoke out exhaust - no leaks - etc?

if so - just enjoy your car - it is not a lamborgini - it is a 914 : )

jim

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[quote name='jimkelly' date='Apr 26 2007, 01:39 PM' post='893332']

just enjoy your car - it is not a lamborgini - it is a 914 : )

jim

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Yeah, I know you're right. It's a can of worms I should leave well enough alone.

yeah - buy second one if you really want a project and drive the better one as much as you can. jim : )

Go with a set of 2.0 SSI exhausts and a Bursch muffler.

Make sure everything's tuned properly (timing, no vac. leaks, injectors are spraying good).

Remove smog controls/EGR system (if present).

Install a crankase breather system. Block off the input to the intake boot from the oil filler neck.

Other options... Upgrade to an MSD Hyfire 6A/6AL ignition system WITH a Mallory Unilite distributor. It really does make an improvement on the lower-end of a 1.8 L-Jet car.

All of those leave the injection intact and you should net a small gain.

that's what i did to my stock 1.8. the 2.0 ssi boxes are most excellent. see if you can get your bursch muffler ordered without paint, as it burns off in about 30 seconds.

~a

Install a set of 96mm P/C's
Set them up for 8 to 1 CR
Install a Raby 9550 cam and lifters
Have the heads gone thru and install HD valve springs, better retainers etc
adjust the AFM to set up the AFR properly

You should be at 100hp and rev it to 6000rpms with hp...so way more fun.

What????

You're going to split the case. Might as well have the halves lapped and align-bored.

But I think the poster is trying to avoid an engine drop and dumping rebuild-cost amounts of money into the car.

Wow,
Since when are the type 4 cases needing lapping and boring?

I know the type 1 frequently needs this work, but the type 4 cases that I have seen are fine, and dont need that type of work....and besides, there are plenty of cases out there that need no work, and can be bought for pretty cheap...way less than the machine work.


Rich

Think of it this way...

How many times has that case been heat-cylced -- and to waht temperatures? What is it made out of? How resiliant to warping is that material? How old is that material?

In my opinion, if you split a case, if you're not having it at least inspected it should be machined. You've gone far enough to take it apart, why not have it done right for a few dollars more?

Measured, sure, I agree,
Bored, not nearly as frequent as a type 1.

The one thing that seems to flex is the mating surface of the cylinder, and having that flycut, and blueprinted is needed, but these cases are really strong, so warping and flexing is not that much of a problem.

Rich

I don't think your case will need anything and that you will probably see very little ware on the inside if I read the 50K was meant for the motor. 1.8 heads are considered good heads for a valve work and a carb cam will give you more gitgo. Perhaps smaller tires like 50s will give you a quicker take off if you have taller tires. You can also invest in a good used engine with carbs already on it so just save up for something you would like and that won't rob you of driving time.

Yes, 50,000 miles. All good info and ideas to ponder for when the weather turns bad this fall and I need a project. Thanks for the inputs.

I'm with the don't align bore if it doesn't need it side. I mean why do you want oversize bearings if you don't really need them? If the case has been "seasoned" with heat cycling, and it's within spec then it's even better right?

The easiest and cheapest thing you can do and retain the injection is increase the displacement a little, and like JPB said (in effect) improve your low end gear ratio for a little more jump

if you do some research, you will find that you can push the l-jet to 2.2 pretty easy, and quite possibly 2.4 liters.

The system can handle that flow.
The heads will need to be bored out for the bigger pistons.
The cam will need to be changed, but with L-jet, you cant have to much overlap, the air wave closes the flapper door in the AFM and makes the car not run to well, if at all at idle.

Go bigger jugs, and a slightly more aggressive cam..and off you go.

Rich

Guys. Stop. WAY off topic.

1) relocate air intake to the driver side (as opposed to middle)
-This was Porsches method for making the car warm up faster in the winter. Yeah right.

2) retard timing a little

3) clean all the random crap stuck in your whole intake system. The plenum gets real messy.

4) Bursch exhaust is nice. Headers are better. Weld your own, or buy even a cheap set.

5) pm me, and I'll let you in on a secret or two for why the local guys think my car is scary fast.


But start with suspension. You'll go faster than an extra 5-7 ponies will get you.

P.S. Roger....

Just run a higher idle. High enough for constant flow. Or add a constant velocity piston into the works. Easy money.