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machina
My plumber gave me a great idea. I can loose the alternator and install a second race size battery with a master switch between them. Then I could start the car and run on the grid on the big battery and race after switching over to the smaller battery.

What Think?

dr
airsix
Seeing as how you have an electric fuel pump, I'd say keep the alternator. If you had a car with a mechanical pump and only needed battery for the ignition that would probably work fine, but that electric fuel pump puts a hefty load on the battery.
JMHO. I could be wrong.

-Ben M.
Brad Roberts
We ran in SCCA GT3 back in 93/4/5 with carbs/fuel pump/MSD and 20 minute sessions where no problem. The Holley "blue" pumps are specifically designed for racing and have low current draw... and a MSD only requires something like 8-10 volts to function properly.

We just used a regular Optima and charged it between rounds. The car has a upright 911 fan shroud from Fat with a gutted 911 alternator (case and bearings).

We now use a lawn tractor battery and just jump the cars when starting with those handy cheap jump boxes. The batteries are cheap so you can have 2-3 spares at all times.


b
ChrisFoley
I'm running a single stock size battery and have no problems going a full day without recharging. That inludes starting the engine 4 or 5 times anyway.
I usually recharge between each session though as a matter of principle.
URY914
Believe it or not I'm still running an alternater in mine.
It will be coming out this weekend. wink.gif

Paul
URY914
How about the relay board?
When can that go?

Paul
ChrisFoley
Relays? We don't need no stinkin' relays! happy11.gif
r_towle
URY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I cant believe you have all that extra weight!!!!!!!!!!!!1

think about it this way.....

For autocross.....
you need no lights, no horn, no electrical for anything else but fuel and ignition.....
Two fuses, inline will do.
One toggle switch (lighter than the ignition and the key)
Loose the whole wiring harness.....to heavy.
One push button switch to start....

The rest is useless.
Guages can be wired with a custom harness, much lighter than stock.
clap56.gif
Should get you 20-25 lbs more.....or less
seanery
won't it slide around if you loose it?
r_towle
loose it, like get rid of it...delete it...
seanery
oh, lose it. I see, not loose it.
URY914
I'm going to take all the gages out but the tach.
Who care if I got oil pressure or it too hot?
URY914
I already have taken the horn, lights, stock fuse block and 90% of the wires out.

Fuel pump, tach, starter, and is about all thats left.

Paul
r_towle
you might care if it gets hot dude....

I think a bare minumum would be...
Starter button and toggle for ignition and fuel.

Use heavy wire for those circuits.

Light wire
Two head temp guages and an oil pressure guage.

For autocross...no tach....never have time to look at it anyways...besides...its the most inaccurate piece of crap I have ever seen.....I have replaced many and none of them are calibrated the same.....If you know the RPM's that you want to shift at, get a rev limiter and set it there....hook up a big ass light in front of your face to light up and tell you to shift...
Light and limiter weigh less than the tach and mount for the tach..

I wanted to comment that you have way to much floorboard from what I see.....
CUT IT ALL OUT
Aluminum dude!!!!!!
Two small 1*1 square tubes going from side to side for the seat to bolt to.
Gotta go with eityher aluminum of Carbon fiber for the floor,,,,if anything comes up through the floor,,,,think of what it hits first......

I think you could LOSE (Ok I cant spell this late) some more tubing too.....
URY914
I'm already using a button and switch.

Cutting out the floors would be more pain than gain. The weight is at the lowest part of the car. I may remove the sheetmetal crossmember that runs under the seat area just to clean things up.

The tach stays.

Head temp gauges? Come on, its and autox car.

Paul
redshift
No, it a kite, with floors, and a tach.



M
airsix
QUOTE(r_towle @ Dec 4 2003, 08:12 PM)
If you know the RPM's that you want to shift at, get a rev limiter and set it there....hook up a big ass light in front of your face to light up and tell you to shift...
Light and limiter weigh less than the tach and mount for the tach..

I've got in a bad habbit. I beat the crap out of my 1.7 'cuz it's going in the dumpster when the six is done. First run I just make note of where I am when the valves float. Next run I know where to shift. happy11.gif

-Ben M.
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