I'm acquiring someone else's project car *and* replacing the tailshift trans with a sideshift. I have parts that I've never seen on a car and don't have parts that I need...

I think I have all of the shift linkage now but am missing the engine mount bits. It's hard to tell from the diagrams that I've found, but I think I need the brackets that bolt to the engine. I'll buy new mounts to connect the engine to the bar. What goes at the outboard end of the bar? Is there a rubber mount or does the bar mount solidly to the car? Is this mount/bolt/bracket different for sideshift vs tailshift?
Is the engine tin the same? Are those transmission mounts in the pictures?

Thanks!

Click to view attachment

Rubber boots. Can't see the shifter coming out of the transmission. There should be an arm with a white plastic cylinder attached. The arm has a ball thet presses into the plastic. I have never done a conversion but that is what I see.

You will need the later shifter, there is a conversion firewall bushing kit you will need and the engine does use different mounts and motor mounts.

Those are the trans mounts at the rear of the tranny on the ground, they look like 911 engine mounts

No sheetmetal changes, and the bar mounts solid to the car, no rubber as the engine is mounted to rubber with the motor mounts for side shifter.

Thanks!

I phrased the question poorly...I have all of the shift linkage parts (boots, cone screws, shifter,...) and will buy new bushings I'm sure that I am missing parts necessary to mount the engine and transmission. The car is a '73 that the most recent owner acquired without an engine or trans. He partially installed a rebuilt engine (displacement forgotten) and a tail-shifter -- stopping work before installing a shift linkage.

Fred

A question for another time will be how to convert a tailshift trans to sideshift. Maybe I'll take pictures and write it up. (I don't trust the trans in the picture enough to install it whole).

Well good luck Fred, we are here to help. Pictures really help a lot if you are not local to anyone. The box looks clean, I would install it and hope for the best.

If it's a 73 chassis, you already should have all the correct parts from the firewall forward, so you're most of the way there. There are some shift console covers and bellows to protect the rod bushings from dirt, and some motor mounts for the 2.0 liter engine. Check the Porsche PET or AA's website for the additional parts.

Yes, the transaxle does look clean now after 6 - 10 hours with a wire brush, scraper, engine degreaser, and two trips to the carwash! Wow, I'm not very efficient at grease removal. I don't trust the box based on A) the incredible amount of crud that I cleaned off the outside, the silicone RTV "gasket" for the tail cover - indicating that something was bad enough that it needed attention but the PO didn't spring for a new gasket and C) I can't rotate the input shaft. It appears to be seized or locked in two gears or something. I'll find out what the problem is when I go in after the shift rod to convert the other transaxle.

Thanks for all of your help! It will be a great day when this car runs again.

there is one tin change. you need the correct dr side piece that attaches to the he and the case. on the ts the rear rod is covered by the early tin. the tin is above the rod on ss. another pm sent.

k

You'll also need the brackets (look like flat pieces of 2.5-3" metal strips) that secure the engine mount bar to the chassis.

For info on how to pull your stack try my tranny rebuild link below in my sig line. That ougt to get you closer to knowing its condition and it is pretty straight forward. Gasket kits are about $45 form the usual places (GPR, Pelican, PAP-parts)

There are two metal brackets that bolt to the front of the case, those get bolts to the rubber motor mounts.

There are two u-shaped brackets that fit on top of the engine bar mount (on the car) and basically span the large hole in the mount and you run the bolt through the engine bar, and through the u-shaped bracket, and that is what holds the bar to the car.. no rubber on that attachement...the rubber is at the motor on the later style.

Well, the tranny may not be lost.
First, drain it.
then place it on two blocks of wood, nose down, and high enough to keep the input shaft from hitting the ground.

Unbolt the rear cover.
There is a small gear and several thrust washers/bearings that you need to keep a look out for, they will fall out...
Pull it up slowly once you get the rtv gasket stuff to let go..
The gear and washers will fall, so move slowly, and realise that they are not held in after you lift the cover about 1-2 inches away from the rest of the tranny.
Now, after you recover them, place them in the rear cover, set that aside and try to spin the input shaft.
If it will not spin, you need to go to Dr Evils page, and learn how to remove the gear stack.
If it will spin freely, chances are that the previous person may have not put the little gears back in correctly...and that is really easy to do wrong..

I always assemble the tranny with it on two block of wood and with the input shaft pointing at the ground...
Just for this part of the program.

Gravity is you friend in this case.

If the shaft does move freely, come back here and get some pointers.
Basically the little gear needs to be put in place , with both thrust bearings, and held there by luck...the shaft if actually in the tail cover..
But, you cant put the gear in its final home if you intall it in the tail cover first...gotta see that one to accept it...

If that gear was put in wrong, easy to stop that shaft from working...

Rich