Have the control arms off the car and in my big vise. Castle nut off. Started tapping with drift and hammer. No go. Need a BFH. Put the castle nut on backwards to protect the threads and got out 2 1/2 pound sledge. No go. Soaked in PB Blaster, repeat BFH. No go. Heat with torch, repeat BFH. No go. Got out SUPER BFH (splitting maul). No go.

I must have missed something. What should I do now?

Dave

Hey Dave,

Sounds like you've done everything. There's "nothing" holding it at this time except that friendly bonding agent we're all so familiar with. What kind of torch? I would continue with a MAP torch on the "hub" section where the threads come through. If you don't have one, a MAP torch is on my list of "Most Valuable Tools". You'll get your $40 bucks back after it's first use. Get it as hot as you can and then give it another whack with the BFH (like this is actually telling you anything new... sorry). Maybe give the PB Blaster a little more time to soak in...?

You're probably going to have fun driving the hub out afterward although, bearings break much easier than what it sounds like you're going through. I keep an old 911 rear torsion bar around as a BFDrift to get those out.

Good luck.

E.

Do you have a air compressor? If so you can borrow my large impact hammer & robustly massage the shaft out. I live north of Ollalla, just a thought.

Hmm I can't imagine that it is that stuck. Lots of heat and a BFH (like everyone else said). The bearings on mine were the tough ones to get out. I littorally beat them every inch of the way 5lb maul and a way screwed up socket welded to a 10" long soild piece of 1" bar stock. On the last hit the damn thing went sailing across the garage.

I wonder if the splines are going to be knarled up when it comes out. kind of a tough thing to heat without getting the shaft hot too. + =

I would suggest pressure and time. A friend of mine had a steering wheel stuck to its' shaft. He took the puller and tightened it down and left it overnight. By the next morning it was loose. Marval Mystery Oil!?!

Hey Dave,I made a press that used a 3/4" dia. theaded rod and a bracket that bolted to the control arm thru that hole near the shock mount then just cranked on the nut and they pressed right out


Steve

Step away from the hammer, Sir.

Go to your local FLAPS and rent a hub puller for $6 and have the job done in 2 minutes. It will look like a giant steering-wheel puller. Slotted fingers bolt down with lug-bolts, then you just turn the center screw and it pushes the stub out. This is the ONLY correct way to do the job.

CSOBOSC members can feel free to fab their own puller using a large bolt, a few nuts, and some heavy plate steel.

-Ben M.

ps - [edit] Yeah, what Steve just said. We must have been typing at the same time.

One of mine took a shit load of PB, 2 x 4, and a whack from a 20 # sledge

I bought a 20 ton h press at a mobile tool sale show 2 years ago for $120. Can't live without it now. I have done this job multiple times with it. I think the name of the tool company is Homer's and I think they have a website.

Homer's?

WooHoo!

Mike

A big press is cool, and I'd love to have one, but the hub puller is the only way to go if you aren't pulling the trailing arms off the car. I know Dave has the arms off, but still, I had this image in my head of someone trying to lay a press on it's side and trying to slide it under the back of the car.

-Ben M.

I don't know if you are joking but I'm not. It might be Homier's.

Thanks guys

I have learned enough to realize that using excessive force means I missed something somewhere. Usually someone more cleaver than me has come up with a yool that does the job easily. Off to find a hub puller after work.

Fortunitely, I stopped before I busted anything. Cheapest I could find a new castle nut was $19.68. Glad I won't need one.

Dave

Homiers it is! they had a tool sale here last year in a tent in the mall parking lot. They have some decent stuff and some junk. just like harbor freight and the rest.

My method:

While the swing arm is on the car. Remove the castle nut, turn it around & screw it on so it's a bit proud of the stub.
Coupla' shots with a 5 lb hammer.

When you reinstall, a little grease or antisieze on the splines.

The stinker job is removing the hub.....I've never found an "easy" way to do that.....but I get it out.

The wheel brg is now a piece of cake.....practice, practice, practice.... don't even use a

Got the sucker out. It took the hub puller from the flaps and about 25 taps with the SUPER BFH. Hope I don't have to eat the hub puller but, if they look at it they may make me buy it. The head is tulipped from the blows.

Penetrating oil made it all the way through the splines. Culprit was our old friend rust. Also I screwed the threads on the castle nut and stub axle. Dave at Triad West has a shipping container of parts so I quess I'll try him.

Out to do battle with the other side now

Dave

You're using a "LOT" of heat right?

Shit... I just sold a set of stubbies to AA (can you believe I actually got money "from" them?) I would have "given" them to you...

if you guys haven't tried it yet get some "Aerokroil". it is to pb blaster, what pbb is to wd40. amazing stuff. dave, they sell it at tacoma screw. others do a search for "Kano Labs" you can order direct from the company.

kevin

i've used several products in the Kroil line. good stuff. recommended.