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toon1
I pulled the motor because I suspected a failing valve seat on the #3ex.. I had to back off the adjuster to get the gap set right and it was 1.5 mm futher backed out than the rest.

After I got the head off I noticed oil sitting in cyl. #4 on the top side of the pist..

upon further inspection it looks like there was a lot of blow by.
It's a little hard to tell in the pics. but the head chambers are black as heck.

Funny thing is, the #3ex. looks fine
toon1
2more
SGB
I betcha mine looks that bad in more cylinders. :0
Thats why I won't open it till winter...
John
It looks like your heads sealed real well to your cylinders.

I would guess that if your adjuster kept tightening, that your valve is stretching. Replace it before you drop that valve.


good luck with it.



just my $0.02
toon1
the engine would smoke at startup but only after it was warm and was driven a bit.

If it was warm, and I restarted it within a couple of min., it would smoke, if it sat more than 10min. and then restarted, it didn't smoke. I suspected valve guides but all the ex. where replaced and the intakes where good.

MAybe rings?

It only used 1 qt. of oil in 6000miles.

I am going to send everything thisng out and have it checked.

bd1308
QUOTE(toon1 @ May 4 2007, 12:24 AM) *

the engine would smoke at startup but only after it was warm and was driven a bit.

If it was warm, and I restarted it within a couple of min., it would smoke, if it sat more than 10min. and then restarted, it didn't smoke. I suspected valve guides but all the ex. where replaced and the intakes where good.

MAybe rings?

It only used 1 qt. of oil in 6000miles.

I am going to send everything thisng out and have it checked.

thats less oil than MINE uses laugh.gif

id replace the valves, theyre what....$100 for all of them? $200 maybe
blitZ
Might want to get rid of that Fram oil filter while you're at it. barf.gif
toon1
QUOTE(blitZ @ May 4 2007, 05:20 AM) *

Might want to get rid of that Fram oil filter while you're at it. barf.gif



What should be used?
Dave_Darling
QUOTE(toon1 @ May 4 2007, 06:40 AM) *

What should be used?


Mann, Mahle, or Knecht. Maybe Bosch--maybe. Purolator or Wix if you have to.

Never Fram. Never ever Fram.

--DD
John
QUOTE(Dave_Darling @ May 4 2007, 08:08 AM) *

QUOTE(toon1 @ May 4 2007, 06:40 AM) *

What should be used?


Mann, Mahle, or Knecht. Maybe Bosch--maybe. Purolator or Wix if you have to.

Never Fram. Never ever Fram.

--DD


Why so anti-FRAM?

Please explain. (not that I use FRAM, I just don't know.)
Dave_Darling
Several reasons. First, I know at least two people with 914s who have DETONATED Fram filters on cold start. (OK, more like "ballooned and sprung a really big leak" in the one case--the other one swears it completely burst!)

Second, I have seen more oil filter seals left on the filter flange with Fram than with anything else.

Third, I got chewed out in a major way by a pro mechanic I trust when he found a Fram on my 914 a number of years ago.

Fourth-- http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html

Fram == Bad News. OEM filters only for my 914!

--DD
JPB
Ya got it apart mister, might as well do a top end rebuild if ya gots tha bones for it. Put in a high volume oil pump while your at it and you will have a good engine for a good long while. beer.gif
toon1
QUOTE(JPB @ May 5 2007, 06:58 AM) *

Ya got it apart mister, might as well do a top end rebuild if ya gots tha bones for it. Put in a high volume oil pump while your at it and you will have a good engine for a good long while. beer.gif


I think I am going to tear it all the way down, rebearing it put in a Raby cam with new lifters, a 911 adjuster upgrade,euro pistons, new rings, have the heads checked and do what needs to be done and possibly a Ford EDIS ignition with my new fuel injector setup.

That should hold me until a Subie conversion biggrin.gif


Keith
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