hey, just bought a megasquirt complete kit from DIYautotune. saw a few good threads about em with 914's on here. any other suggestions? i have a stock 1.7 liter. reason i bought it is that my fuel trigger points went out, so 195 vs 145 it wasnt a tough decision since i've been wanting to build one for a few years now.

anyhow any help or tuning tables would be appreciated! i saw the 2 liter tuning tables. anything for a 1.7?

Check my sig for pics of my install. I posted a lot of info on my install, questions, etc..

I converted from MS to carbs for about a grand all inclusive: stock 2.0L parts, MS II V.3.0, relay board, relay box, wibeband O2 sensor.

Without a wideband sensor you are realyl tuning by ear.

Checkout msefi.com and megasquirt.info for instructions.

I don't have 1.7 tables, sorry. There are a few guys that might, send toon1 a message.

Feel free to post questions. Don't expect to have your car converted and driving in a weekend though

Have fun!

which version did you buy? MS-I, 2 , V-2.2,3.0? Did you buy a relay board? What TPS are you going to use.

Get a 02 sensor, the LC-1 it will make tuning easier and give you constant feedback and AFR adjustment.

The conversion is not that hard to do, ask alot of questions.


I have mine running on a 1.7, the constants and AE tables are close.let me know when you are ready for them.

thanks for the quick response guys. version 3 PCB, megasquirt I. can i use a 5 wire wide band O2 sensor without the wideband controller? i saw there are some cars that use these- and much cheaper than wide band kit! no relay board- just the MS itself. yeah i'm expecting this to take a bit of time- but i prefer DIY stuff to paying serious money to do similar things.

thanks yarin- i liked your info on it- some very helpful stuff!

MS-I V.3 three is a good buy. It has alot of options avial. fo future upgrades.

You will need a controller for the 02 sensor as it is what sends the signal to MS. MS only makes the adjustments not the calculations. LC-1 is the one to get, most of the defaults are set for the LC-1.

Register on the MS site if you havn't already. you will get good advice from the guy's there.

Keep an eye on the calssified section , every once in a while there are some good deals 02 sensors.

If anyone needs the LC1 O2 sensor itself I have two of them from a failed EFI attempt. PM me if interested. Also have 30 lb. per hour injectors ( 6 ) and 23 lb. per hour ( 6 ). Also have a relay board.

I'm working on a MSI v3.0 right now as well.

still building the kit actually.


I'm starting off using the stock plenum and injectors and ignition, then moving on slowly to control the whole lot.

TPS is not totally necessary from the information I've been given. Apparently MS can calculate what it needs from the pressue sensor alone. Might not be optimal but it will work it out according to the guys at DIYAutotune.


I'd be keen to see your tables guys.

brer,

the MS will actually calculate FI fuel amounts, etc from the TPS alone if needed. Granted its not as accurate as the MAP sensor, but in the event of an emergency, it could come in handy.

the MAP sesnor is the most important item in the MS system for reading the amount of fuel to be delivered. It acts the same as the MPS in the stack 914 system.

You can get the car to run OK without a TPS, you have to richen the bins in the AE tables at the different RPM ranges.


Retro fitting a TPS was one of the easiest things to do on the coversion.

I can take some pics of what I did if you like

Keith

The tps is very easy I grabbed one from the junk yard off a 88 nissan 200sx
it has the same D shaped hole that mounts into the existing throttle body shaft. Someone here I think used one from a 88 mazda mx6. you just need a tiny bit of 1/4 in aluminium plate drill some alternate holes to be able to mount it. if you dont want to go to the junk yard I think nissan one is only 60$ or less new at the FLAPS
This mod is popular enough that we need to keep this thread going. no surprise but the MS forums dont have much with regard to installing and tuning on a 914,

thanks for all the input guys! so far i am on step 50- just started tonight. built the stim first- then started on the megasquirt. all the tests have come back A okay- good stuff! i'm just going to trigger off the coil- so i guess i can leave the VR circuit out? i will for now- and worst comes to worst will install it later. this thing is pretty fun to build! my soldering iron has made it a bit difficult as it is one of the "gun type" so the tip is too bulky for my needs and i keep touching the board- no real damage though. any how- if anyone else has any info- please post up! please post some pics of the TPS sensor! thanks guys!

nevermind forgot i put pertonix in it! so a hall effect sensor it is!

hmmmm. so i have a hall sensor- but i am going to be triggering off the coil for now (one thing at a time- i'll do ignition timing later), so i guess i assemble if for off the coil triggering- and then later i can go back and remove the components i need to to control ignition timing when i get brave?

whats the cost for a system fora 2.0? id love this. maybe id put that ol pocket pc to use finally!


(my new phone does everything the ppc was purchased for LMAO!)

I too bought another MS last week, I "think" it's fully assembled...still need to load the latest software on my laptop....I got the V3 MSII version as well, went thru "glens garage"

bare minimum MS runs about $150 (fuel only, unless you want to cut and add jumpers here and there)

the next step for fuel and spark is about $247 (I think that is what I paid for mine)

at that price you have to solder it yourself, and that does not include the wiring harness that you must build yourself....

add another $200 or so and you should be on your way to MS depending on what other parts you have at home !!!!

Mike, I think for $247 you get to solder. Not bad but it does take a while.

Dave

Hey Scott, build thew board with every componenet, do not OMIT anything because you are not using it. I think the hall sensor input and triggering off the dizzy points (not the stock FI trigger points) to drive the coil for timing are the same circut. they are both sqare wave signals. It explaines in the MS assembly.

If you decide to use something later, it will be there , all you have to do is make a couple jumpers and your set.

I put everything in mine, even the coil driver. I'm not using it right now but it's there, a couple jumpers and I have spark control.


BTW.... when you get to the step of installing the TIP transistors, it's going to be a PITA with a solder gun. It was hard enough tih a small iron.

Agreed.. I built every option in to mine.

Here is a pic of my $10 junkyard mazda TPS and adapter plate I machined.

I'm with the other guys, build it with everything.
I'm doing a 1.7, with a Web 86, but I need to pull the motor again to fix a leaking main oil seal.
I have it idling, beautifully, but that's it at the moment.
The tables for stock engines are probably pretty similar, just adjust the ReqFuel to suit, maybe?

Hey, I've created a public folder for megasquirt files on my Esnips.

The address is

http://www.esnips.com/web/914megasquirt



I'm not sure if anyone is interested, but i thought it might be useful for people to post tables and files for sharing there. It is accessible to anyone, and if I add you as a member then you can upload files for others to download.

A repository of MS files maybe?
I'll leave it up as a resource if others are interested and it gets some files added.

Let me know what you think.

great idea!

PM me with email address to be sent an invitation to the folder.

Esnips is a free web based site that works like an FTP.
Files uploaded can be linked to and downloaded freely.

If you upload, save the address to your .zip file and whenever anyone asks you can send them the link to your file which they can click and download.

end of sales pitch.

took the advice and built in everything. i ended up taking the soldering tips which looked like flat head screw drivers- and ground them into cone shaped points- which worked perfectly. got the whole thing done last night and it tested out perfect. was actually pretty easy to build! i'm going to the junkyard today to get a TPS and air temp sensor (since the local auto parts store didnt have any)

hey got it all in and wired- now to see if i can figure out some tables to get it to run! i ended up using a TPS from a nissan sentra (only one at the entire pick and pull that would work!) and an air temp gauge from a standard GM sensor. i tried to tidy up the wiring harness- but right around where i put all my fuses it gets pretty ugly. still better than the factory wiring though! also found the source of my screwed up idle- one of the injector seals was missing!

okay- so went to try and start it- the fuel pump relay wont turn on- i ran a 12 V jumper straight to it- and it turned on- so MS is not sending a 12V signal- why? when i put it on the stim (and jumpered the RPM connector as it says) the fuel pump light turns on - so what gives? once i jumpered the pump relay- i got the engine to cough but rapidly flooded it due to not having a clue about where to start other than someones post on pelican parts.

well if anyone can tell me why it doesnt work i'd appreciate it- it'd be nice to have a working fuel pump!

thanks guys.

not sure about the pump relay, could be a transistor in the MS.

What are you afterstart enricments set at?

If they are to high it will flood the engine

okay found out i wired the fuel pump relay wrong- the megasquirt acts as the ground- not the switched power- got it working now. also fixed the flooding- i get it to start after about 5 seconds of cranking- then it runs for a second and dies. played with all sorts of things- and nothing made a significant difference. i'm going to post my tables in a second for perusal.

Scott

Hey Scott,


ARE YOU RUNNING RESISTORS OR PWM%???? this is VERY IMPORTANT


ARE YOU RUNNING EASY THERM?

I would turn off the 02 sensor for now. get the car running first

answer the Q's before you try to start the car again.

The reason I say this is, your AE table is off. The AE table is directly related to the req fuel #. Your req. fuel is off

ALSO, if you are not running ET( easy therm) your setting for you WE ( warmup enrichment) is wrong. These are all important for start up and keeping the engie running.

There are quite a few things wrong with the settings we will address them later. I have my lap top up with the settings I am running.


Keith

pwm% i'm running

no easy therm- dont know what the resistor values are to change it. anyone got them for the CHT sensor?

i took this off some forum- it was for a hopped up 2.0- but i thought it could get me close. thanks for the feedback. will turn off the O2 sensor






ARE YOU RUNNING EASY THERM?

I would turn off the 02 sensor for now. get the car running first

answer the Q's before you try to start the car again.

The reason I say this is, your AE table is off. The AE table is directly related to the req fuel #. Your req. fuel is off

ALSO, if you are not running ET( easy therm) your setting for you WE ( warmup enrichment) is wrong. These are all important for start up and keeping the engie running.

There are quite a few things wrong with the settings we will address them later. I have my lap top up with the settings I am running.

OK, use these settings for WE

-40*F: 100
160
170
160
150
135
125
120
110
140*F:100

REQ. FUEL, change to 10.6

after you change the req. fuel go back to the VE table and re enter all the engine parameters and generate a new table. Right now yours is WAY to rich

PWM% set it at:75% to start
change the inj, opening time to 1.2(ms)
Batt voltage: 0.2
PWM time threshold:1.2
BArro. correction : off

Chnge the AE( afterstart enrichment): 35/250

change all the settingsI suggested and repost the VE table so I can take a look.

Keith

k heres the edited files

Ho are you setting your VE table?

Are you using mega tune to set the initial table?

yeah i used megatune to do it. does it not look right? i got it to run for almost 2 seconds with those settings. hmmmm.... if i step on the gas it dies immediatly. wtf?

your KPA settings are upside down.

are you going into: settings>VE table >tools>VE specific> generate table?

This will bring up a window where you can enter all the specifics of the engine.

engine displacement 1679cc
idle charactoristics rpm: 1000 kpa:20 ( this will default to 800)
peak torque 89ft. lbs@ 2700 rpm@ kpa:100
peak hp 72hp for the eb cased motor 85 for the ea cased motor @ 4900 rpm@ 100kpa

redline charachteristics: 5500rpm @ 100 kpa

okay i copied the table manually in the correct order- as it formed it like that on its own. i'll try it tommorow and see how it works. any other advice? do the other fields look okay?

Strange that it formed like that, maybe mine is wrongLOL

go itot the mega manuel tomorrow and see how to turn off the 02 sensor.

Other than that everything else looks ok. I won't be around tomorrow but will be back on Mon.

good luck

okay started up but died nearly at the same time as all previous attempts. at this point i think it is my rediculously oversized injectors- so i am going to see if i can spruce up my stock injectors and get em to work. i originally replaced em cause i thought they were leaking- turned out it was my cold start injector. so i'll put those in and try again.


thanks for the help. when i get it running i'll post up my MSQ file and tables.

Scott

over size injectors???? what kind are they ? what flow rate???

Dude, that changes EVERYTHING

they were 340 cc VW injectors. now have the stock injectors in- no leaks- look good to go. still only starts and then dies. crap. am out of town till june 18th or so. stupid car!

how long does it run before it dies?

got it to run for 20 seconds at one point. usually 2-8 seconds. sorry i was out of town on my honeymoon. tried to upload the MSQ but no luck. let me change the extension to .txt and see if it lets me. nope. i'll upload it to esnips and u can check it out.

http://www.esnips.com/r/hmfl/doc/ba4b86d6-...startedran20sec

okay now here's a real puzzler... I have been trying to get this thing to run trying every bit of advice i've heard. I've asked on the megasquirt forums, and here. It still wont run for more than 5-10 seconds at best. I've checked my grounds and rechecked em, checked the wiring- everything looks good- yet it doesnt run. i even wired 7 oh, 25 watt resistors inline with the injectors so i could get rid of pulse width modulation- all with no changes at all.

so now comes the really wierd part. so i decide to see if maybe the problem is with my injectors (i swapped back to the original injectors that i have never had the car run on (i thought one was stuck open when i first got my car- turns out it was the cold start injector stuck on) as part of my trouble shooting- no change) so i hook up the stock computer (which has a bad injector trigger- so only 2 injectors were firing), try to start it- no dice just cranks. so i figure maybe it's flooded- so i unplug the fuel pump and try starting it- it coughs and then fires and runs. so i go around and plug the pump back in- the instant i do the car dies... wierd... so i unplug it and fire it up just to see how long it will run on no fuel pump.... it ran for 20 minutes and then died (possibly because the CHT sensor may have come unattached). so i figure now that it's warm i should try megasquirt and try it without the fuel pump. nothing. nada. i plug the pump in- get it to start- but it dies just the same as it did when it was cold. what in the hell?

I am so frustrated with this thing i just dont know what could be wrong. any advice?

So i got it running! turns out that i had used a relay that was different than the ones i've used in the past. this relay had an 87 and an 87a. the 87a terminal is normally closed- so it turns off when you turn the power to it on. basically this screwed me as was using this for my injector power. anyhow fixed it after long hours (days, weeks,months) of work on it. got it to idle smoothly, ad whenever i get time again i'll tune the driving! thanks for all the input guys! i'll post up more details later.