When you modify your car, eliminating what the Porsche engineers designed you have to replace it or risk the consequences. In the case of the oil breather lines that used to go to your intake you risk oil leaks because of pressure and such...
Chris Foley of CFR has come up with the best solution I have seen. It takes the oil vapor from the heads and crankcase and if it pools, automatically drains it back to the engine. See the pic below.

Chris would like to build a run of these but in order to justify the time and keep down the costs he needs to build a bunch. So... Once again it is Group Buy time in 914World. Indicate your interest here and Chris will give us details on cost and payment...

pretty slick.... BUT... whats it cost. there are a ton of comparable choices out there Like This

is it baffled inside? any more info on its construction?

whats the group buy price?

BTW - nice mallory E-Coil

Interested

interested.

intrested

I agree that there are a ton of comparable choices... I have two sitting in my rear trunk. I just think this one is slick because it drains back into the engine. As it says, Chris will give details on construction and cost...

Give us the details and I might be interested, I was going to rig up a CB old-style breather kit but this one looks better sealed etc.

interested

also interested, depending on cost of course

There is only one issue with a system like this mounted in the engine bay..

In the winter when the heat is turned on (if you have heat) the vented gases from the breather that is open into the engine bay will be picked up by the cooling fan. This forces the gases through the heater boxes where they meet with hot air. The result is a funky smell that will give the driver a headache in just a few minutes of driving.

Been there- done that. It's a great product just mount it in the rear trunk or vent it outside the engine bay if you have heat.

Price is $140, shipping and paypal included. Update 5/31/07: price changed to $130.
Unit includes - 2 side inlets (1/2" fittings), bottom inlet/outlet (1/2" fitting), top mounted filter (1" fitting), mounting ears, fuel cell foam inside for baffling.
Minimum sale for the GB price - 20 units.
Additional discount for 2 shipped in one box - $5 ($125ea)

I will take two Chris

Question, what kind of fittings are used on the heads? My PO removed the head venting when he converted to carbs

I think they are NPT but IM McMark and ask him that. I think he has a source.

I've never liked how the hoses tie into the heads with a metal nipple just stuck into a hole in the head. Doesn't seal too well.

Are you doing something else then Paul?

Not really, but I should JB weld the nipple to the head than use a hose clamp on the hose to nipple connection.

Always found it stupid to use a hose clamp on the hose when you can pull the nipple out of the head with little effort.

We drill and tap our LE series heads for thread in pipe thread fittings.... The same can be done with stock heads.

If you're gonna do it, do it right. I'd expect nothing less from ya Jake.

Ok... The details are on the table. Who else is in?

Count me in. Can I get it before the weekend?

Sure,
When I'm ready I'll let you know which weekend.

Just a few more to go and we are a go on this! Come on! If you are on the fence we need you to get the numbers up to 20!!!

Just to let people know, I am working with another one of our members, Spunone, to bring you these. He is in the metal spinning biz and may be making the cans with one end already attached instead of me having to weld both ends.
There may be about $10 additional savings reaped from this method that I can pass on to the buyers, but I won't know until I have a sample (from Paul) to work with in a few days.

I modified the title of this thread to make it a little more descriptive and to hopefully entice a few more prospective buyers.

paul (spunone) does amazing work!

I'm one of the guys on the fence and very tempted. Could I add additional inlets to
it or will that damage the baffling inside.

Craig,
it won't be a good idea to weld on the can once its done. If you need a mod have me do it for a small added charge.

Geez Mike! I liked my title! But... Actually, yours is more discriptive...

Thanks for the anwers Chris. Okay count me in. I'm running a DTM and have 2 outlets in the chimney and 1 in each head so I'll need 1 more fitting in the breather.

C'mon guys! I hope to have this system in place when I start my engine in the car for the first time in a few weeks. We need a few more fence sitters to jump in...

Whats the tally so far?

I'm in. Chris makes great stuff. Don't need it now, but will for a motor where parts are being sourced.

Tally is between 8 and 13... We have some "on the fence" guys that are still hanging out. C'mon guys... This is a good system.

I have assembled one unit with the sample spunone provided. It is 4" dia instead of 3.5". Paul says his 3.5" tooling is worn.
The brackets have been modified to move the unit closer to the firewall.
The outlet tube is 1" dia. to reduce gas exit velocity. The foam should cause nucleation of the oil vapor and condense it to prevent mist in the engine compartment.
I am reducing the price to $130 based on savings from using a spun cannister with one end cap instead of a tube with 2 end caps.
For anyone who wants a second fitting for the breather tower, like Craig, the added cost is $10.
Pics below:

DAMM Thats one good lookin Breather And your fuchin quick LOL at welded and fab nice job Chris ya know 1/2 inch on the end of your ... never mind

If possible I will take one too! I just need the info for Paypal.

I'm shipping this one to conedodger for installation and testing.
We still need more names on the list before I accept any money and place an order for cannisters from Paul.

I'll buy two.

I might even buy three if that's what it will take to get this off the ground. I want one ASAP. I'm currently oiling my engine bay...

I installed the prototype today. Fits like a glove. I set it up to use Earl's Blue High Pressure hose AN - 6. The inlet to my crank is larger. I think the design calls for a PCV and mine does not have one. The hose is overkill but I had it here in the garage so...
Any suggestions Chris? It looks like that crank outlet is AN - 8 or so?
Rob

The stock pcv fitting (which must be gutted for this application) accepts a 1/2" hose nicely. I guess you need a sleeve that fills the space between your hose and the 1/2" tube I used. The sleeve could be glued to the 1/2" tube.
The other fittings are 1/2" too. You must have used -8 hose for them.

I have considered adding another fitting (up high) for the crankcase as a standard item that could be capped if unused. It may enhance the flow of crankcase gases to have a separate line for the oil drainage.

Sorry Chris, You are correct I did use AN - 8 hose.

I have never even seen a PVC on a 914. I guess a lot of them get "lost" I will see if I can find one to gut.

What do folks use that don't have the head vents? The 2.0L heads I have from a 76 doesn't have the standard vents that the other 1.7L & 1.8L heads have... I'll be using Weber 40's so I won't have the FI to air box to pipe the pressure release tube into.



I just have a big hole for venting (pressure releasing) in the oil filler.




Click to view attachmentClick to view attachment

you can put bungs (bolt in) on your valve covers themselves... or you can tap the boss on your heads.

So Robby,
Any update on your installation? How's it working?
I had another inquiry today about making these.

I recommend tapping the heads in the stock location for 1/4"npt X 1/2"hose nipple adapters.
If you vent the valve covers the hoses will have to come up through the tin somewhere.

I am sure it will work well once I get my transmission back from the shop that I had rebuild it. It installs very easily and looks good. I solved the problem at the crankcase outlet with a sleeve as you suggested.

I recommend this solution. It has solid theory behind it. Vent your heads guys. Don't invite oil leaks.

Rob

I'm a fence sitter here. Does anyone see a problem with mounting this outside the engine compartment, under the fender?

Tom,
I can see your problem. Your car is very original looking. The problem is the design. The bottom outlet in the front is meant to both recieve outlet pressure from the crankcase as well as gravity drain any oil that makes its way up to the canister. Under the fender you lose gravity. This thing mounts easily with a little trim of the back insulation.