hey! need body filler for a few things.....the rear valance is all chipped, will do that...should look good...along with a few other things....umm, what is necessary for the proces...aside from the body filler itself.....sandpaper, putty knives?, etc...thanks alot....they are small jobs...thanks --JON

There are these special things to apply it with . . . they are kinda like handle-less spatulas (I can't think of the name right now). And then you will want a cheese grater-like thing to quickly take excess off with (you don't really need it if you are good with bondo) and some sandpaper and a board to put it on.

Go to your FLAPS and look in the bondo isle . . . you will see what I mean, and then go and get good filler.

Whoa... there cowboy.

From the writing of your email I can sense that you have never or only limitely been around body work.

This is pretty serious stuff.

Before you go around just slapping on Bondo etc you need to get educated.

My advise is to look at your local JVS or Techinical school and see if they have a class that you can take.

If this is not available... go to a local Paint Jobber... these are folks who sell automotive supplies to body shops. If you have luck you will find a helpful person who will guide you in the right direction.

Do a search on Google for body work there are some good... and not so good sites out there which give great tips. This is no substitute for a good first hand education.

Take your time and do your research.. it will pay off. I know it did for me

The spatula type thingies but wothout spatula type handles are often referred to by the pros as " bondo spreaders ". Most outside of the industry have not heard of that term but any auto body supply shop should have at least one old crusty guy in the back room talking about the good old days of lead and Centari single stage paint as he takes a swig of his warm PBR and proceeds to cough up chunks of black lung. THAT guy will know what your talking aboot.

Although I agree with the knowledge is power recommendation, for the little jobs you mention I think you can do it just by following the directions on the can. If ya goof it up it is easy enough to try again, and again, and again, and again, buy a new can, and again You can do it!

Also... DON"T USE FARKING BONDO BRAND BONDO!

I got to see side by side how much better good body filler is then bondo crapola.

I used Evercoat Rage Extreme on mine over the winter. One of my buds did a little work on his car using his bondo and my garage and tools. He eventually started dipping out of my tub of Rage as well. The difference was really night and day. No voids, easier to sand, easier to spread, it is the bomb.

And use a mask. Body filler dust will have you hacking for a week. and it DOES get EVERYWHERE.

Remember to sand in an X pattern, and use the longest sanding board you can. A random orbital will be useful for feathering the edges, but you will never get your work smooth with one. Use either an airboard (if you have a compressor) or a flexible sanding board.

Body filler is tedious work, but it is not hard. If you really screw the pooch, just sand it out and try again. But, you won't need to.

Zach

thanks....for know, im just doing both my front and rear valances....the rear one has very large chips in it...thats just what im doing....--JON

One question, I tried asking this on the other 914 site but nobody answered .

So here is the question, if the panel your working on ( front+rear trunks in my case) need a skim of filler. Is it better to apply a etch primer to seal the metal then scuf that then add the filler?

I did the reverse on my 73 911... I did all the filler work on bear metal then applied a etch primer . Which is the best method?

Ask 5 people and you will get 6 answers.
I did mine over bare metal. You are supposed to get teh best adhesion over bare metal. But, you need to sand the metal with 80 grit paper to score it a little. And, if you do the bodywork before priming, then you can not use an acid etch primer as it will eat the body filler.

Not a big deal, my entire car has been sanded with 80 grit paper, and will be again just beofre I paint in order to remove flash rust. instead of acid etch primer, I'll use an epoxy primer.

Zach

Thanks Zach.

So just to be sure-
1- bear metal 80grit
2- do all filler work
3- seal with a epoxy sealer
4- scuf that, then some high build primer ( 2 pac)
ect..ect..


So there is no chance of rust starting between the metal and the filler?

For your valences, I would day dive right in and give it a try. After all you can take it all back off if you do not like the results.

Also if you are going to use a texture on it like stock it will hide a ton small imperfections.

Have fun.

If there are just chips in it, you don't need filler. You just have to feather out the chips, prime, paint. If there are dents, then it needs filler.

I've never heard of etching primer eating filler. I've used stuff from Dupont, Sherwin Williams, and PPG without that problem...

The PPG site says not to use its etching primer over poly body fillers, which most are. Also, the shop where I bought the paint said that I needed to use an epoxy rather then a self etch since the body filler went on the bare metal.


Zach

That depends on the filler. Some are more porous than others and will allow moisture to seep towards the metal. It also depends on how long you wait before painting it. Do allow some time for it to shrink (place it outside in the sun if possible), then high build primer to fill the scratch marks.

Right-O-Mark.... or you could use All Metal which is impervious to moisture and does not shrink

Thanks for all the info guys.... I dont know why I never thought of this before but I took the time to check out the website for Evercoat filler products and they state that there filler is designed to be aplied to bare metal . Thats a relief because that is what was done on my 73 911.

They also mention, if you do want, you can apply a epoxy sealer on the metal then your filler but again, Evercoat states that there product is made to go on bare metal.

pretty good news for me

Bondo? What's bondo?

After buying one of John Kelley's shrinking disks, I just pound the dent out and shrink the metal smooth. If it does need Bondo, a quart will last a very long time as a minor scratch or dimple filler. Use the non porous stuff with the self etching or epoxy primer.

KennywithverythinwashofbondoIFatall.

so, today I did the body fillering (?) on the rear valance....came out really nice....spread it on, let it dry, sanded the crap out of it, and felt it alot (to make sure it was smooth)....then I primed it once....ate dinner....primed it again.....checked my email....primed it again.....did something......primed it the last time, and letting it dry overnight.....gonna sand it tomorrow with some fine crap, prob 300 or so....

If it isnt as smooth as i want, can i lightly sand the primer and add more body filler, or do I have to sand all the way back down???

thanks ---JON

if you want to build more up after priming, just apply over the primer. You will be fine.

Zach

thanks....will do....--JON