Anyone got any suggestions on how to get the shift rod off the connector? (yes - I've removed the cone screw) I'm afraid to use heat because the dust boot is right there. I also don't want to hit it too hard for fear of buggering up something in the transmission. Tried pressing it out but can't get enough leverage. Right now I'm just soaking with liquid wrench and hoping.

did you take both cone screws out?

umm, maybe i really am being stupid here. I only see one back there - not including of course the one at the firewall end.

2 total. I was just checking.

So which side is giving you a hard time?
Did you get one side off?
Is the car in neutral?

yah had me going there for a minute. Problem spot is at the transmission end. The tranny is out and separated from the motor.

Soking it should work, then heat the hell out of it on the aft end. So long as you do not score the bore of the coupler too bad it sould be just fine. You would also do well to have something to hold the coupler in place to keep the blows form transmitting to the tranny internals, but they are pretty stout so whack away!

If that dont work: Heat, beat, repeat.

If you are intending on draining the tranny, you can always take the 2 13mm nuts off and take the shifter console off of the tranny so you can get to everything easier and put it on a bench.

The tranny oil only has 98,000miles and 35 years on it. Do you think it needs changing?

I like the idea of getting it on the bench - less chance of messing up something important. My goal here is just to clean up the tranny and replace the bushings. Any other preventative stuff I should do while it is out? This tranny has been sitting for 20 years.

Age and mileage mean NOTHING to gear oil, but I'd sure be wary of rust inside a tranny that sat for years. The Cap'n

I would replace all the gaskets due to age and it being out already.

Thanks guys.

Cap't

Makes sense when you stop and think about it. No combustion to break down or dirty the oil. System is pretty much closed except for the breather hole so there are not any contaminates getting in. I'll buy that.


Oh sure! Not bad enough that this poor old girl has rust everywhere I look now you have me worrying about the inside of it! I could have been blissfuly unaware of that possibility until the transmission siezed up. I can only hope that there was enough film on the parts to keep the rusties away.

Mike,
I got her out and on the bench. Too tired to do a lot of work on it tonight (work is the curse of the drinking class!) Definitely going to be heat, beat, and repeat. Locked the rod in my workmate and tried to get the coupler to rotate to break the sieze. No joy at all. I'll rig up something to protect the cover and go at it with a torch.


Sure YOU would 'cause you're the evil tranny genius. Me - not so much - LOL. I broke out the Haynes to see what was involved and quickly decided that I could live with a little weeping. Then I read your article and it didn't look nearly as as overwhelming as the Haynes version. 'cept for that little bit about


followed by

Right! Nuthin to it.

With the Cap't concern about rust I may just have a go at it. Always wanted to see how a tranny works.

Just closing the loop.

Got it off. Took 3 cycles of heat, beat, repeat. I heated the coupler not the rod - my thought was to let the couple expand. Pipe wrench on the coupler and rotate. It would never have come off without taking it to the bench so a big atta boy to Dr Evil.

So a dumb question. How do you fill a transmission. Throught the breather hole nut? How do you know when you have enough in?

Well, there is the drain plug and a fill plug. The fill plug is right above the drain plug, and you keep filling it until it is level with the fill plug .

too easy - thanks

Your welcome

Take the fill plug out first!

Ah shit. So now you tell me - just spent an hour with a hypo trying to get it through the breather hole!

Dude

You want to remove the fill first to make sure the tranny can be filled in its current position. If you remove the drain first you end up with an empty tranny and no way to easily fill it should the fill plug stick But, if you want to thread a camel through the eye of a needle go right ahead

Sorry Mike - you were being serious and I thought you were giving me a poke.

"Search is your friend" Found the articles where all this was discussed way back when and feel a little sheepish that I asked a dumb question that had been asked before. The whole thread now makes much more sense now that I have identified the proper fill location.

For those who might read this in the future:
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=58496

Ah, my bad. Studying so much leaves me unable to detect sarcasm