Well, I've tried on and off over the past couple months to weld in a new front trunk pan and I'm not doing so hot. I also have a section of firewall I need to weld in, the PO cut it out due to water pump clearance issues with the V8.

Please help before I mess it up too bad! I'm more than willing to provide food and drink for assistance.

Dan

Oh yea; engine, fuel tank, lines, and interior have all been removed so no worries there.

Dan -

What welder do you have, and do you have gas to go with it ?

Thom

It's a Hobart Handler 140. I don't have the gas upgrade on it, so it's just flux core.

If I get down that way on business again I'll help you out.

By the way there is a nice teener in a junk yard in fortworth.

If you need I'll get you the addy.

I stole the passanger engine shelf off it last time I was down there.

Thats your problem -
In order to any kind of decent weld on thin sheet metal, your going to need gas...
I have a crappy habor freight unit that I have upgraded to gas, and it does OK -
If you decide to upgrade, make sure you get a tank that is at least 4' tall - the smaller tanks just mean that you will have to get them refilled that more often -

Where are you located? I am in Desoto, near 1382 and Pleaseant Run. I need to get a refill soon anyway... Maybe I could hook up my tank to your welder... Got any pics of what you have done so far ?

TE

What type of welds?

1. Are you using the reference settings for metal thickness? They should be under the cover of the welder. If you have infinite adjustable wire feed and amperage, the welds are a little easier to dial in.

2. Are you placing a chill plate behind the weld to minimize blowthrough? For a butt weld, I use 3-4 inch long piece of copper pipe with about half of the pipe pounded flat and a stick rammed in the non-flat end. Hold the stick, push the flat on the backside of the weld area, and weld on the front side. If it is against the weld area and you burn through, the weld hits the copper and chills without dripping out. If you can't get behind it and weld at the same time, hold a flat piece of copper behind the weld area with magnets.

3. And yes, the flux is part of your problem. Metal Inert Gas (MIG) makes really nice welds.

Ken

CLEAN all the surfaces first. If the metal isn't spotless, your asking for trouble. If your replacing an area with new metal, try working with some of the scrap that you cut out. Finely, clamp your parts togeather before you try to weld them. I also agree that you need to dump the flux core wire and get a gas attachment. It will make the welds cleaner.

And when you've mastered the skill of joining two parts, you get to learn how to do it without warping it. Just work a small area at a time. Then swith to another spot while it cools.

In time you'll pick up the feel for it and when you can fix something so that nobody can tell there was a problem to start with, it will give you a real feeling of pride.

I'm in Wylie near FM544 and SR78. I'd need to get the MIG conversion for you to hook up gas to my Hobart.

I can get some pics, basically the front pan is in about 50%. I'm having problems with some of the wider gaps. I've tried the copper on the other side and it helped, but I just don't have the thin metal skills. The fit is marginal, but I'm looking at function more than form since it will be covered with a radiator anyway. I haven't started the firewall section since I've been having problems with the trunk. I think the firewall will be much easier, especially since it's easier to get to.

Dan

Dan -
A lot kits include a regulator in the kit for the tank...
I have a regulator, so if I were to bring a tank, you would not need one...
However, there may be other attachments required to connect the tank to your welder, which I may not have -

I will send you my cell# via PM, you can call me tomorrow -

Thom