Okay so I've got to get on the ball if I am going to have my car running. I've been tearing into my burned six & haven't done squat. So I am getting down to it this week. Throw out some advice as needed please. I hope to install my engine next saturday. This week on nights after work. I need to mate the tranny to the engine. Install the flywheel, Clutch etc... I've got to go buy my Optima battery (I forget which one is supposed to fit). Once I get the tranny all mounted clutch installed & all. Then I'll get everything in place to do the full install on saturday. I have pulled my engine before by myself but this is my first actual install. So all advice & help is much appreciated. So feel free to give me a nice basic install guidline. Thanks

Can you give the details on the car that you are working on?

Motor, injection, has the motor been fired before?

74 2.0 actually the engine is a 75 2.0 with about 80k on it. I bought it from a guy doing an electric conversion. Ran great & is still FI. Everything is all there still on it. He just needed the flywheel & the tranny. I have a tranny from my 74 to mate to it along with a freshend flywheel. He drained the oil before pulling it. So it sits just as it came out. Except for the tranny not being there. Once I have the tranny bolted up it is ready to put in my car. Just need to hook everthing up, add oil & cross my fingers before turning the key. Well I am sure a few other things too. Mostly need help in mating the tranny. Once the flywheel, pressure plate & clutch ar in place. What is the trick to lining up the splines on the tranny to the engine? A basic procedure you would do to install the tranny would be a big help. Thanks -Jamie

I sent you an E-mail... I might be able to assist in some way one of these evenings, but I'll be out of town on Saturday. Might be able to help Sunday though.

If you are planning on mating the engine and tranny and then installing them together then it will be easy for the tranny to be fitted, but it may be a bit more technical to place the whole unit in the car. I prefer, so its my opinion, to put the engine in first, bolt the engine bar in and put a block under the engine allowing it to aim downward a bit. Why? Because when you put the engine in first it is easier to manouver into place, and is lighter to work with.
Installing the engine:
- You will need to rotate it side ways a bit to allow the tin to dodge the nuts on the suspention arms.
- Tie the FI hoses on the injectors out of the way.

Installing the tranny is pretty easy. Just use a jack like you did with the engine. To line the splines up it is sometimes necessary to shift it into 5th gear, and move both CV flanges to rotate the shaft a bit.

this is the cliffs notes of it all. There are numerous ways to do this so there may be one that you like better. This is just how I like to do it and I can do it with a small floor jack and one frined (or none if no one likes you ).

Made some progress this week. Spent last weekend cleaning up & moving the burned six out of the way. Got my shop space all cleared MOnday & moved my nice 914 into place. Tuesday pulled my scattered parts out to have ready. Wednesday - Coy came down from Salem to help me mate the tranny & muscle a few things around . I owe you one Coy (although I don't drink so pop will have to do). Anyway we got the tranny all mated & pushed the whole setup under my car. It is ready for me to start hooking things up. Everything is all labeld & should go prettty easy. I couldn't find my engine mounts though. Hopefully I can find them tommorow . If not any recommended mounts to buy? Hope to get everything in SAturday.
Anyway Coy it was a pleasure to meet you & get to drive your nice 74 2.0. I am even more stoked to get mine running now. Talk to you soon & maybe passing you too

Dear Mr. Rust ...

let me be the first to say:




Andy

Good point Andy! I'll take some tonight & add them. Hey another question. I am putting a 2.0 motor out of a 75 in. I notice it has more smog crap on it. Will it make much differance if I pull it off? What do I need to do if I do pull it. Will it mess up the stock FI? Do I just cap where they route back into the engine?

A couple pics! These were last weekend. I've got it up in place now. Just got to connect everything, Add some oil, Gas & fire this puppy up! Well hope it fires anyway

When exactly is this event? Im just a little bit ahead of you. We just put a 74 motor in a 76. Kinda backwards. Tried to fire up massive vaccuum leaks( I think) so i just got my gasket kit today hopefully that fixes it. Good Luck. If i havent missed it maybe I will see you there.

It's next weekend. The 6th,7th & 8th at PIR. I'm curious about the extra smog stuff on my motor. Anyonw know if I can just pull the pump & plug the rest? Whats the best way to handle that?

Can't tell you for sure but the motor I pulled had the air pump missing alrady and probably only half of the rest plugged in. Mine ran like that for who knows long. At least the three years it was in my possesion.

Got everything on the engine connected. Just have the clutch cable & bar from the firewall to tranny to shift gears left. Oh & I have to go get some battery clamps as it doesnt seem to have them. I'll try to fire her up tommorow afternoon! Almost there

GO speedracer, GO speedracer, GO speedracer. GOOOO!!!

k

Jamie, I found a 914 on CL in San Diego you may want to buy....just needs a little TLC.
CCLIN914NATION

Okay so it is in & running. I took a brief test drive up the road. Was missing on acceleration pretty bad. I've got some tuning to do for sure. Throttle sticking at the pedal some. Otherwise I am thrilled it has life. Bought the car from Camp914 almost a year ago without a drivetrain. I've really only worked on it the last month though. A few things left to do but she moves now under her own power I still have to get my front trunk welded in. It has the cut outs for A/c. Got the replacement piece & buddy to put that in later. Although a tip on getting the stinkin undercoating off would help. Don't want to catch my car on fire when we weld.

Hey Jamie...I put a 76 smog 2.0 in my 74 and stripped the smog. Here are some things you can ponder:

I don't know how anything about the Oregon smog laws and don't want to...but if you want to remove it this is what I would do.

First, I would remove it all, but save it for "just in case."

Pull the smog pump or at least pull the belt that drives it (biggest hp robber)

Pull all the piping that is connected to the heads. The easiest way to plug the heads is with 3/8 brass/bronze caps from the plumbing store. The thread, which is standard 1/8 pipe thread is close enough that it will thread on nicely without any damage to the steel injector head nozzles and seal.

Now, threre's a good chance that your 75 will have some low end dead spots, surging idle or some bucking due to the fuel mixture being to lean (75 & 76 motors). A easy way to solve this is to add some resitance in-line (in series) with the TS2 (head sensor) which will slightly richen your fuel mixture and make a world of difference.

Determining how much resistance: You will probably have to add around 270 ohms and anywhere up to 500 ohms. I added 470 to find where my motor ran best (76 2.0). A lot depends on your motor modifications and exhaust. Hopefully you can throw away your 75 exhaust and backdate with 74 or older---big difference in flow and weight.

You can buy the resistors at Radio Shack for $1 apiece. One way is too buy a few 100 ohm resistors and a 50 and soder some quick connect connectors on each end. This way you can keep adding more resistance and do the "drive test."

Another way is to buy an adjustable potentiometer (0-1000 ohms) ($3) and wire in series with TS2. With a meter set the pot for about 300 ohms and drive it. You can keep adjusting the pot until you find your "sweet spot" and then measure the pots resistance to know how many resistors you need exactly to put in line permanently.


FYI...when you get up near 500 ohms, your fuel mixture will be enriched across all driving speeds. Here is a great chart from Brad's site that shows the effect of resistance.

PS Don't over anyalyze the whole process...you might just add 300 ohms and drive it and see.

You should not have to play with the MPS or ECU knob...in fact just leave them alone.

Good Luck....PS You might also consider venting your valve covers or adding vents to your heads (many 75 and 76 motors have only one or no vents in the heads). Adding a puke box and venting the heads wll help reduce those famous 914 oil leaks and keep those blow by gasses from being reburned...of course that's another story.

Hey Mark that is very specific! Thanks for the tips & putting them all there for me to see & check. It was great to meet you at Coy's tonight. Hopefully I will get to try some of those tips on the 4th. I will see you Saturday at the races- Jamie