So I took the teener out again this morning . I clamped the AAR valve to eliminate it as a problem, cause the car was running ok with the new fuel filter (yesterday). It barely idles and I'm thinking , it just has to warm up and it'll run fine if the AAR is still not working, it idles like crap all over town , but runs alright when I'm cruising around . A little sluggish when I get to 4K , but cruises fine. Well I'm driving around thinking I'm ok, and I turn to come back home (about 1.5 miles away) and it gets boggy on me again , and the further I go, the worse it gets . Surging, backfiring like crazy , no power , just barely jerking along at like 5 mph.

Could the fuel filter be plugged up again, cause there's a ton of in my fuel tank?

Someone suggested plug wires, I think I'll replace those when I get some $$$, and check the plugs to, cause who knows what condition they're in now.

And of course there's always the vacuum leaks. I'm going to tear out the old air/smog pump crap and put bolts in where the injectors were. And do the propane leak test deal.

Any other Ideas?

Inspect that fuel tank NOW. If there is crap in the bottom you need to deal with it before it costs you the whole motor. You need a nice clean fuel system. Do NOT rely on a fuel filter to CLEAN your fuel.

How do I go about checking the tank? It's between 1/4 and 1/2 full.

Drain it.

Either syphon out the gas, or drain it into a basin by removing one of the hoses on the bottom of the tank and taking off the filler cap. If you remove the plate that protects the steering rack, you can see a hole cut into the body under where the tank is.

Warning, once you drain your tank, the ghost of Drik White will speak to you. "Remove the tank" he will say. "Get it hot dipped and recoated." Rattling chains and whispers will taunt "While you are in there... while you are in there."

2 years later, your car will be on jackstands and in a million pieces. Ask me how I know...

Zach

Wait, so I'm supposed to take the tank out or not?

yes

take the tank

OUT, and have it cleaned

rinse and repeat

Or take a flashlight, remove the filler cap and look inside. You can actually see the pickup tube which is almost straight down. But if you're filter clogged up again that quick (which it sounds like it did) then you're definitely looking at cleaning the tank. You can get kits to clean and reseal the tank (http://www.eastwoodco.com/).

Well you take a match and...

I had a simular problem many years ago, it was fuching rust clogging the fuel system. Follow the directions above...Except the "match" part.

Alright, I'll see if I can drain the tank today and start to take it out . I looked up the kit, and it's like $40-44 yeah? I'm thinking I'm going to get her back up on jackstands and take the tranny stack out too, cause of the 4th gear, which will probably be "Vol V" for me.

Before these guys all talk you into re-coating your tank (which in fact is impossible since the tanks were never coated form the factory), listen to this. Even if you do end up boiling or hot tanking the fuel tank, you don't have to use one of those coating kits. I never will and I've restored 30 year old fuel tanks before.

But it's your car...

Well it is too late for me because I already did mine, but I wondered if it was a goo idea or not. Even the POR 15 stuff might sluff off one day, I don't know. I think the tank was at least galvanized inside, and ultimately it was good I took mine out as it was rusting from the outside where it sits on a felt pad. I found the easiest way to drain the tank was to disconnect the fuel line back in the engine compartment and use the fuel pump to empty the contents into a gas can, but that was with no return line (carbs) so it might not be a good idea with FI...

I've recently come to believe that the tanks were originally coated inside and out with Zinc Phosphate.

Well I have to empty out the tank and clean it up, and then I'll decide on sealing or not or whatever, but I'm poor, so no big $$$ stuff.

When all else fails, throw it away and get racing parts.

I dont know if they make a fuel cell for the 914 that fits in the same spot, but I'm pretty sure its too much $$$ for me, considering everything is too much money for me

Fuel Safe makes a cell that fits the stock location... bring a wheelbarrle full of $$$ though.

BJH

There's great instructions on the Pelican site on removing the gas from your tank. I was able to easily hook a hose to the fuel pump and put the other end in the tank of my truck and pump all the gas out of the 914 in about 3 minutes.

I don't think 'sealing' the inside of the tank is necessary, but you'll want to get rid of any rust that's currently in there. Also replace the mesh filter in the tank.

I just did all of this a couple of months back. It's not hard, just a PITA.

I think I'm going to just toss this gas, I'm pretty sure it's . Full of rust and the gas is probably broken down to were it wont burn very well.

Please don't ditch into the drain - it needs to go to a hazwaste landfill or recycler.

Whatever you decide remember this... if you replace or repair your tank you'd better do the fuel lines at the same time.

Back in the 70's Teeners were referred as the poor mans Porsche. Today it's $500.00+ for the windshield/targa top gasket... poor mans Porsche my ass. Patrick Motorsports has the best solution I've ever seen, it's also $1975.00.

take the fuel to the haz waste disposal station @ the tacoma city dump. you may have to go back the next day to retrieve the container. it's a free service.

k

I'll take it over to the tacoma dump, probably in some 5 gallon buckets so they can just trash 'em with the gas. And as for the $2000 fuel cell, I only paid $1050 for the teener, so that's out of the question!