Just got my car yesterday and it's an absolute beauty. Put about 40 miles on already, around town. After the engine was warmed up today, riding around in third and fourth gear, engine died several times.

Seems like it wants to sputter a bit when I let off the accelerator while in gear, and then dies. I put it in neutral and start it up again while coasting, seems to start and runs a second or two and then dies. Eventually I would stop the car and it starts up again and I was able to get home, but I must have restarted it three or four times. Engine temp in the middle, not running hot. I hadn't stopped it so it's not like I had vapor lock either.

Idle has been a little rough and once or twice it died when idling and standing still.

Car has new plugs, wires, dizzy cap and fresh tune-up. Has a new voltage regulator. New battery. New seal under the oil filler cap. New everything. I'm afraid to go too far 'cause I don't want to get stranded.

But otherwise this baby looks and drives like a dream!

Are there some easy things I can check?

Thanks,

Paul

BTW, given the new tuneup, Brad said it might need an idle adjustment and I haven't played with the two screws (idle and mixture) yet. But I just went in the garage and it doesn't really want to run.

Hmmmmmmm: fuel tank reads half full and the red light isn't on. Wonder if I've run out of gas..................

Paul

I found out the first weekend I owned my '75 1.8 that 1/4 really means empty. Fortunately, we only missed a wedding, rather than something important like a race or car show.

I too have been cursed by a car that likes to die at inopportune times. I have been towed home probably 6 out of the last 10 times I have driven it, and everytime, it will start right up after the flatbed unloads it in my driveway. I know that it is electrical, but I have no idea where to start, especially since it is "fixed" by the time I get back to my tools.

I had the same problem with mine. It was bad enough that I pretty thoroughly destroyed a brand new battery with restarts. Turns out it was a 3 part problem:
1. Vacuum leak at the MPS
2. Loose Tach wire at the coil
3. Clogged fuel filter.

Once they were repaired, car runs great. I'd check all the vacuum connections thoroughly. Most of my idle issues start there.

Good luck and enjoy!

Tomorrow, I think I'll first add some gas.
1. Is there a pic of this particular hose for the 1.8?
2. I'll check the coil wires
3. Fuel filter just replaced, as were the fuel lines, so this one may not be a problem.

Thanks!

Paul

Bad temp sender #2 the one mounted in the head can cause these problems.

AFM can stick, little door opens and hangs up, causes ton of fuel to dump in there and drown it. Make sure the little flapper moves smoothly

Thanks Tobra. So I need to take off the air filter and then the AFM flap is visible? I'm gonna break out the Haynes later today...

Paul

The car is in shock and is homesick...return it imediately to california and sell it to me--it's way too gorgeous too live outside of CA.

Might try throwing a fuel pressure gauge off the driver's fuel rail...might give you an insight into what's going on with the fuel pump, filter and pressure in general...pretty telling.

The first thing I would do is call Brad. You had to haul it home 400 miles from Brad's, you paid him I'm sure, he's had his hands in your engine compartment and he knows his business.

http://manuals.type4.org/ljet

k

Called Brad already. My experience is that he doesn't answer the business phone on the weekend.

So, I'm looking for some things I can do today before business hours tomorrow. We've got that short salt-free season here in Michigan and it's sunny and 80's today. I've just GOT to get out of the garage if I can!

I have no doubt that Brad'll have ideas tomorrow. Meanwhile, I checked some wires and hoses today and my fingers came out clean as a whistle!

Paul

The last car I had was from California and wound up in Fargo, ND after I sold it. This one is absolutely NOT leaving my clutches! Although I did like that "buy it back for 1000 more with a 34 year amortization" comment you left on my other thread! My buddy and I really did LOL!

Paul

I thought you were afraid of bugs? And rain...

If it hasn't already been done, and given what you say has been done, I'd replace the fuel filter. And have a good look at the old one and see if it has junk in it.

yeah, I'd start here as rust can build up quickly and plug a new filter. pull it out and off and shake it over a white rag..How much rusty gas comes out?

and the next area to suspect/inspect would be further upstream of the fuel filter.

k

Yes, I did pay him! Yes, he did call me on a Sunday! Yes, we have begun to solve the problem!!!!

Turns out, sitting in the car and I turn the ignition clockwise to the first detente, there are no lights, no brake light, no oil light, no gas tank measurement, etc. If I turn the ignition ever slightly more clockwise, like a degree or two, just a little pressure, the lights come on.

Starting juice was never a problem. So, as soon as it starts up and I let go of the key, it goes back to a "dead" running position. And, if I manually hold that key ever slightly more clockwise, it continues to run.

It's a brand new ignition switch; the old one had a problem where it wouldn't crank unless you really reefed on the key clockwise in the start position.

So, a new switch is working it's way to me tomorrow overnight. Kudos once again to Brad. And I already own a 27mm nut (looking at my S-K socket set from 25 yrs ago, it's the only big size with any signs of usage).

In the meantime, I guess I can run the car with an alligator jumper cable connecting fuse position 4 to 1, 2, or 3. Then unjump it to stop the car.

Paul

I guess wrong. Alligators at the bottom end (toward the front of the car) between fourth from the left and 1, 2, or 3 from the left do not keep the car running.

It's a different kind of "hotwire." The key turns, the starter starts, but it doesn't keep running. Guess I'll wait for the new switch...

Paul