The passenger compartment smells like gas and I mean in a big way! However there is not a drop of fuel under the car...any ideas?

Check your fuel lines in the center tunnel. If you have original lines, they may have cracked. The lines are plastic if yours are original.

I knew that is what you would say They are the original lines. Anybody know how hard they are to replace?

Piece of cake once the gas tank is out and it also helps if the engine is out but I have heard of people doing this with the engine in.

If you're going to check out fuel lines, you also want to check the ones beneath the gas tank. A little gas goes a long way when you're smelling it inside the car.

I know I should use the SS lines but funds are tight. Would it be ok to use rubber fuel line?

One of my fuel lines was leaking, so I pulled both of them out. After over 30 years the lines were still supple and in great shape. One just had a couple of holes burned in it from a bit of patch work in the floor pan beneath the tunnel done by a body shop. Luckily, the tank was out at that time and there wasn't any fuel present. I replaced the holey line with the correct one from AA and put the good original one back in too. That's the only line on the whole car that hasn't been replaced, but I saw no reason to do so.

I didn't have to take the engine out - didn't even think it was in the way. There is a bit of a trick to putting the lines back in, just turning them the right ways while feeding them down.

Seeing how good the condition of my original lines was, I would also suspect the ones under the tank first. They're also a bit easier to check. It's not a bad idea to just see what's under there after all this time anyway.

Just my .02

Agreed. Do the easy stuff 1st.
Replace the rubber lines. I used the expensive Fuel injection line rated for higher pressures. couple bucks a foot.
While you are in there replace the fuel filter. also wouldn't hurt to do all the fuel lines in the engine compartment.

I have done all the line in the engine compartment and my fuel filter (mine was in the rear near the fuel pump). Since I am going to remove the tank to check the lines it may be a good time to mount my fuel pump up front.

I had the same problem. I found that there was a "slight" leak in the line between the tank and the fuel filter. Fortunately, the leak was right at the fuel filter, so I just cut an inch off the line and reconnected. Problem solved.

The issue with finding the leak is that it does not take much gas at all to smell things up and if the leak is "slight," like mine, the gas does not even have time to pool before evaporating...

If you have questionable lines, just replace all of them at one time and be done with it. My lines are newer, so I wanted to track the leak down.

As for running the lines down the center tunnel, the PO of my car did something interesting... He ran a piece of outdoor watering hose down the tunnel and then ran the fuel lines inside of it. This keeps the possibility of a leak in the tunnel from entering into the passenger compartment. I recomend doing this since the hose will never be seen once the car is on the road and put back together.

Also, there is a rubber gasket between the tank and the scupper...After 30+ years, it gets cracked and distorted...Easily replaced $9.00 at most vendors that we all know and love...

It will allow fumes to seep into the car via holes in the front bulkhead...

2-OH!

scupper

OK I may be ate up with dumbass but this problem did not start until I filled up with gas on Friday

I keep about 3-4 gallons in my tank - just enough to drive to a AX race, race, then get to the gas station and put in 3 more gallons to do the trip again.
Last weekend the AX was 130 miles away so I filled up the tank all the way - GAS fumes were back after a long hiatus. I have read here in the past that these 30 yr old gas tanks can get micro rust spots, like against the rubber wedges holding them, and the rust spots can have micro holes that leak some gas/fumes. The symptoms are that is smells most when full, because when low, the gas is not up tot he level of the micro holes. I'm pretty sure that is my problem, and plan to pull the tank to fix my wiper mechanism, then maybe pressure test it or swap it for a good one.

UUUUmmmm, make sure you have a fire extenguisher in your 914 at all times

Yep, that's atypical symptom for the scupper leak...

Scupper is that funnel shaped device around the filler neck on the tank...

Remove all those 8mm bolts around the filler neck and the neck + scupper come right off...Clean top of tank (DO NOT GET ANY DEBRIS IN THE TANK & no paint where the seal goes), place new seal, replace newly repainted scupper and newly repainted filler neck, replace bolts (but do not torque too tight, a. they break easy b. if you overtorque them the new seal will distort and you are back to smelly fumes) and you are all set...

Just to be sure, with the car securely on jackstands, take the pan off, under the car that hides the steering rack...Feel and look with a flashlight through the access hole under the tank...Feel, smell or see any wet spots...If you do, the tank has to come out...If not, replace pan, fix scupper seal and call it good...

But soon as you can, replace those 35 year old rubber and plastic fuel lines...

Avoid 914 Flambeau...

2-OH!

You might also want to make sure the evap system is intact and attached, front to back. The Cap'n

If you don't think it can happen to you, look here - http://www.914club.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=68130

If the car is fuel-injected, you must use high-pressure lines. Have you priced that stuff? It's a lot more expensive that regular fuel line. The SS will likely be cheaper.

But I seriously doubt the lines inside the tunnel would be cracked. So, keep following the track you're on before going there. The rubber stuff deteriorates and causes 99% of the problems. The plastic tunnel lines rarely cause trouble.

It might be something as simple as the little evap line that goes to the filler. If it breaks/comes off, you'll get fuel smell in the passenger compartment.

I had the same problem that overnight the vapors in the cabin where outrageous. It came on all of a sudden and was more noticable on the twisty back roads. My lines to the vapor tank ( not sure what it is called ) cracked and was not routed properly. Thanks to Ken Schipper and others at WCR, I was able to route the lines properly, cut off the cracked end of the hose and reconnect it. Vapors were gone.

That's the one I was talking about.

after a fillup...there should be a large somewhat clear line on the overfill catch basin (scupper). this needs to be routed thru the bottom of the tank well. if not, the fuel can puddle. examine the gas cap gasket too. they can deteriorate and leak if you really top off the tank.

k

Man I love this place! I am taking the day off tomorrow and pulling the tank. I changed the fuel filter on Friday and it already clogged so I have some POR-15 from a different project I am going to use. At that time I be able to look at all the leak possibilties. I think I will route my fuel pump t the front also. Man am I going to be busy! Thanks for all your help!

make *sure* you use the correct high pressure FI fuel hose anywhere after the pump.
and use the correct FI hoseclamps as well.
having the pump spray gasoline all over your car and engine is not a good thing ...

Andy

Andy,

Do I need to change the plastic lines out if I put the pump in the front?

Paul

no. but make sure the ends are still somewhat soft and pliable. if they're hard and brittle, they can break off.

you're now putting high pressured fuel through a 35 years old plastic line that was never meant to see that kind of pressure.

so you better make sure the lines are still good.
Andy

i gotta ask...why jump into relocationg the pump at this point? all of the sudden, you're coverting a old non pressurized line (supply in the tunnel) to pressurized. you need to inspect the connection point of the center tunnel line and the tube that runs thru the big gromet in the firewall. pulling the tank is not that big of a deal. worry about the pump change later.

k

You are probally right, I should just take care of the tank. I was figuring since I was up there to go ahead and do it all, but I doubt I will have time and I really want to do the SS line update. I really want to take it out this weekend!

are you following the rusted tank thread? much applies to what you should consider to do with the tank out.

k

I am, in the past I have used the POR-15 tank seal system. This time I am going to take the tank to the shop and have it boiled out then put the POR-15 sealer in it. Or should I just have it boiled and no sealer?

i have 0 exp with the POR system. consider what andy wrote having been down both avenues. my replacement tank was vvg. cleaned/rinsed it and called it good to go. degreaser, because i was prepping for ext tank paint, and no acid. the next owner can worry about new rust. i fig i'm good for 15 years at a minimum.

k

Thanks for all your help